oil pan drain plug

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 1:29 pm

This is rediculous, the bolt is now rounded, and still stuck fast. Its seems to be a rather soft metal relatively..
I've tried hex socket, albeit a long one so still some bending moment, the claw type open ring spanner,
This happen to anyone else?

Has anyone removed the drain pan without lifting the motor out?

MUDRAT · Post by **MUDRAT** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 2:12 pm

Tried an "Easy-Out"?

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 2:39 pm

Or vice grips?

twc · Post by **twc** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 3:08 pm

Had this happen yo my sons sizuki vitara they got it off by welding the socket to it

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 4:31 pm

need to get some bigger vice grips all these little setbacks add to the toolbox ay

I did think of the welding, but with that bolt seemingly rather soft....
anyway,good to hear some else did so, so i'll do that before stuffing around with easy-outs

thanks for the suggestions

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 10:08 am

weld a nut, like a big on that you weld through hole onto plug

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:40 pm

Use a set of Stilsons about 18in long and smack the handle that should crack it and you can undo it by hand. Replacemnts are only about $5new

MUDRAT · Post by **MUDRAT** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 4:24 pm

Yeah Stilsons would be good too.

r00fi · Post by **r00fi** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 3:12 pm

If you've rounded it, grind two flat edges with an angle grinder and get on it with a BIG shifter

Subyroo · Post by **Subyroo** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:22 pm

Replace it with a Fumoto Valve and end your problems of rounded plugs and replacement crush washers.

Subaru All models 20mm-1.5 F-105 $49
Subaru All models 20mm-1.5 F-105N $54
the F105N comes with a nipple to connect a hose for draining if you want to go that way. The F105 just drains straight into a pan/dish etc.

I've got one fitted to my Forester it gets serviced tomorrow for the first time since it was fitted 12,500kms ago.

redskin · Post by **redskin** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:55 pm

Hit the side of the drain plug with a centre punch a few times and it should come loose, if this fails try welding as already mentioned.

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:00 pm

Failing all the other suggestions fred, you could remove the sump and drill out the plug from the inside....

Seriously though how did u go? I recon the stilsons is the way to go. How did it get so damn tight in the first place?

Smokey.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:45 pm

With the engine in place removing the sump aint fun and if its full of oil it will also be very messy.

soobs_rule_m8 · Post by **soobs_rule_m8** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:27 pm

Mine was the same. Couldn't weld anything to it. Tried stilsons - no go. Ended up smacking it with a cold chisel and hammer in the undo direction. Two or three hits and away it went.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:53 pm

:)plenty of suggestions.........
hmm well, tried a stilson, nah no hope, but then i got a cheap $15 one,
tried cold chisel on the edge, nope
I did invest in a new spring wrench, and I mean invest - $46!! called LockJaw (at bunnings) nah, it does exert alot more force than an old one I had tho and is more comfortable to use.
But finally found this big nut I was looking for...so........
As to how its got so tight in the first place?NFI

I wonder if its supposed to be easier if engine warmed up or cold? it depends on what gets hotter first I suppose - oil pan or the plug.........

MUDRAT · Post by **MUDRAT** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 2:19 pm

Should be easier with the engine warm, the plug has a different composition to the sump.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 4:15 pm

:p used the arc welder - more current - had a feelin it wasn't goin to be that easy.
anyway nut welded on, then with socket, but still needed extender bar to crack it.
anyway got the bastard thing

(why only some smilies seem to work?)

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:03 pm

At least you know how to weld !

I use pink plumbers tape or gas tape (yellow and thicker) and an O ring , never really 'tighten' it , never come undone, never leak, never got stuck again - in many years

hammerhead · Post by **hammerhead** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 7:13 pm

I dont recommend welding anything..might cause an internal arc in your engine, last time i changed my front wheel bearing on my brumby..found an welding arc on one of the bearing, it might arc when they did work done on the exhaust system.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:46 pm

hammerhead wrote:I dont recommend welding anything..might cause an internal arc in your engine, last time i changed my front wheel bearing on my brumby..found an welding arc on one of the bearing, it might arc when they did work done on the exhaust system.

huh? maybe you don't know anything about welding..........

I know in a workshop where they use those hoists, more care is required, because the
hoist provides at least 4 other good earth returns.
If just welding on car, supported by rubber tyres - its sufficient of an insulator for welding voltages - then the current path is pretty much dirrect between where you place the welder earth clips and the welder tip.

In this case I actually used the croc clips of the welder to hold the nut to the drain plug and welded.