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Does the metal need to be heated before welding because it is high tensile?
Where abouts is the best place to weld the spider gears so they dont spin?

i have heard that welding a bolt in the gears is the best bet.... don't ask me where though. *shrugs*

Dave

heating the spider gears firse helps to get a good deep weld cos its tricky to get in there

but get as deep into the spider gears as u can with the welder and try and get everything nicely glowing together

you can also weld some nuts and bolts and other bits of metal in there to fill some gaps so theres no chance of the spider gears moving

i welded a plate on both sides of the spider gears so it was all welded together like a solid box

easily smahed axles with no signs of damaging the diff

hmm,me starting to ponder about this........hey bluesteel, how big welder did you need?
i have a sip120, think that would do ?
otherwise is it possible to remove the diff (and drive shaft), and still drive ?

Then when you normally drive without one of the half shafts, do you protect the axle stubs ends with anything ? weather will cause rust?

If you removed the rear diff you would have a problem as what to do with the tailshaft as there would be nothing to support it , as far as the stub axle you wouldnt really need to do anything to them allthough some crc wouldn't hurt and may make it easier to replace and remove when required.

Mike.

Suba wrote:If you removed the rear diff you would have a problem as what to do with the tailshaft as there would be nothing to support it , as far as the stub axle you wouldnt really need to do anything to them allthough some crc wouldn't hurt and may make it easier to replace and remove when required.

Mike.

, haha, i'm not that stupid, but I called it drive shaft! yeah with it removed too.
In theory should be ok, I just wonder if the gearbox will cope with no shaft attached?

The box would cope fine , if however you left both rear axel shafts in with the diff spider gear welded ,you would do some nasty things to your gearbox due to the strain , it would however more than likely break one of the rear cv's before you broke the gearbox.
With the spider gear welded and one rear axel removed you will still have drive to one rear wheel when you select 4wd.

Mike.

anymore tips/tricks on welding the diff?
and to get one of the cv's out all u need is a good punch set and a jack yeh?

(i hope u read this too vidler! soon)

without proper preheat, around 350deg, the weld will crack. If I was going to weld one up without proper preheat, I would use 18-8 stainless steel electrodes as they will absorb a bit of shock without cracking. some 302 rods will do it well. Pour it in and hope it sticks.

It would also help heaps if you remove the diff centre from the housing.
This is very easy to do (but does require a special socket to remove the stub axels). You'd have a much easier job of getting access to all the areas you need to weld.

What ratio diff do you want welded ?

I have a 3.9 here I might wack with the stainless mig....the blobs of weld you get off this thing make lumps that are as hard as a 10 grade bolt, so it should hang in there !

....I`d be looking form ~$75 once its welded !

OS

cameron wrote:without proper preheat, around 350deg, the weld will crack. If I was going to weld one up without proper preheat, I would use 18-8 stainless steel electrodes as they will absorb a bit of shock without cracking. some 302 rods will do it well. Pour it in and hope it sticks.

is this referring to rods for a arc welder ? thought they were only real good for mild steels........?

I have welded diff, used on my Liberty while on off road mission but hated it on cornering road and took it out put back open diff, been on the shelf for a while, all yours for $50 (but regretted myself for taking it out - wanna VLSD again now)
Cheers
AP

Yes I was refering to 'arc rods'. Arc is the easiest and cheapest way to join all steels unless your in production.

PM sent Alpineraven