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Hey guys,
I'm throwing in a new clutch before the weekend, but I am leaving for QLD on Saturday. I have the engine almost out, but something just won't budge.
When I put it in, I didn't split it originally, so I am asuming it is similar to an ea82 in terms of seperating block and box.
Ive done all the std stuff ...
ie:
after undoing all that I can see... plus
lift the box,
blocks under the mounts,
etc
but want to confirm the removal of the following:
starter bolt (I removed the starter), matching bolt near turbo at the top of the bell housing. ( top should be free )
both nuts on bell housing near the drive shaft cones, ( bottom should be free)
2 locater dowles half way up the bell housing ( so both sides should be free when pulled forward)

Thers no hidden seceret is there?

I cant see anything else ( but there again, I am blind in one eye and cant see with the other )

It is seperated about 1 cm accross top and bottom, also on the turbo flange but seems to be binding on the dowel on the turbo side. It could just be binding on the shaft, but if it is, it is the worst I have come accross.

I have never had this much trouble before, so just a confirmation asap please, as I dont have the book . I have to get the flywheel machined in the morning, so gotta get this out tonight. Any thoughts appreciated,
Cheers

Just next to the starter there is a 10mm hex drive plug, remove this and get a 6mm bolt ~50mm long, screw the bolt into the pin, in the hole and pull the pin out.

Now the fork and thrust bearing will be disengaged and the box should come away from engine , everthing else sounds about right !

OS

cheers !!
thought there must have been something,
Ill post results soon

You should pull the release fork up too once the pin has been removed cause they sometimes still dont want to let go

Hey guys,
I'm throwing in a new clutch before the weekend, but I am leaving for QLD on Saturday

Thats soooo BYB of you

i swear half the cars at teh BBQ each year have had major open heart surgery the week before

Suby Wan Kenobi wrote:You should pull the release fork up too once the pin has been removed cause they sometimes still dont want to let go

Just found that out !! I did do what you suggested, then found 1 more 10mm heat shield bolt ( I thought I threw most of it away before I put it in) hiding under the turbo. Now my dam lead light blew and the rechargable torch is now dead. looks like another early start.

I came in, then found your post Dave. Great minds must think alike:)

The machine shop doing the flywheel is in Newcastle and close at 12.30 tomorrow, so got to get it up there early

Thats soooo BYB of you

That's why I have a back yard boys sticker on the back window I gotta fit in !!
Nothing like a 800km test drive to iron out all the bugs. ( I also just finished the Crossbred 5 stud / brake kit )
17s on the Vortex look GREAT

Thanks Guys
Its out !!
...and all with the aid of a trusty led light keyring keyhole torch.