auto experts

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:12 am

got a rattle coming from the auto[tt vtd].It sounds like the torque conv noise when its low on fluid.BUT this noise only comes in as it starts to get the right level of fluid in the box.Also if do the old stetho trick it sounds like its coming from inside the diff housing.can't road test the car but on stands it now shifts gears.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:20 am

these things have got starter ring gear on the torque converter haven't they ?

cars with ring gear on flex plate make funny noises when the flex plate cracks/breaks ?

Post by **Captain Obvious** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:00 pm

hmmmmm yeah will might be a long shot but check the flex plate dads black car was broken when he got it but wasnt that in the end any way

Xtreme_RX · Post by **Xtreme_RX** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 6:03 pm

Check the flex plate bolts to the torque converter.
Prick of a place to get to.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:01 pm

Do you have any trans fluid leakage into the diff?

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:07 pm

Went to wave at you on Bribie road today but the window wouldnt wind down as quick as i would have liked

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:41 pm

yeahh i spotted ya but you were moving to quick.doesn't appear to be any redness to the diff oil.it's got me buggerd if you dropp the tranny fluid noise goes,if you run it low no noise.Might have to get another box.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:27 pm

Hey postie,

When accelerating, is there any vibrations? To me it could be the bolts holding the torque converter to the fly wheel. When you have no oil in it the torque converter has no load. But apply some load (depending on how bad it is depends on the amount of load needed) and a certain rev range the noise and vibration will become apparent.

Dad's old rangie had this problem, first it was the bolts on the torque converter coming loose, then the engine and gearbox bolts came loose too (not happy with the rebuild but that's another story). Its done over 600,000 kms, rebuild at 500,000kms which it didn't need.

The only other thing i can think of is a missing fin inside the torque converter, if this is the case, it will be the first i've heard of in a subie.

Cheers

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 3:59 pm

nah didn't vibrate when i could drive it but it would slip likes thre's no tomorrow.yeah all the auto shops i've talked to said no way on the converter they have never seen one fail,very well made,.the noise is quieter when in gear but still there.

Xtreme_RX · Post by **Xtreme_RX** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 4:15 pm

Will,

If you still have the problem i could drop in friday arvo if you want me too?

Thanks - Justin

daveosubi · Post by **daveosubi** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 5:02 pm

Dunno if this helps and im no mechanic, but a friend had to replace the auto in his xr8 the other day, it was also vibrating and slipping. After letting it sit for a while and checking the oil it went again, then after a couple more drives it went no more.
It turned out some metal had come loose and caused a blockage somewhere starving it of oil. I think the blockage was in the filter or pan, and im not sure where the metal came from, but I think it was he's high speed driving the week before that caused it.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:47 pm

Xtreme_RX wrote:Will,

If you still have the problem i could drop in friday arvo if you want me too?

Thanks - Justin

yeah pop in friday arvo and see what you reckon.Should have the rear diff and driveshafts built up and back in by then so i'll be be able to road test it.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:25 pm

re it slipping heaps:
if your gonna road test it disconnect the line pressure wire to the box. You should then get full line pressure, it will shift rock hard but atleast you will prove if you are sticking 12V up the line presure solenoid...

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 1:45 pm

vincentvega wrote:re it slipping heaps:
if your gonna road test it disconnect the line pressure wire to the box. You should then get full line pressure, it will shift rock hard but atleast you will prove if you are sticking 12V up the line presure solenoid...

Dane i've alreday done that just before the driveshaft pulled out.It worked i could drive without slipping,i just couldn't change gears.I'm pretty sure the reason it wasn't getting line pressure or lockup was due to it getting no speed sensor signal,my mistake as i thought the dash one gave a backup to the g/box one[it does but needs to be spliced into the wire thta goes to pin b12] and since the wire was going to pin a11 i didn't hook it into the actual pin for the sensor.To get rid of the L speed sensor i am now using the one on the rear transfer to send signal for all pins.I'm almost ready to put a manual box in but i've just about got my head wrapped around what you need to make a auto work i can't quit now.

Post by **Captain Obvious** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 5:31 pm

the saga continues hey will? hpe you work it out soon!!!

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:47 pm

Mate I could have told you you had no speedo signal in 5 minutes with an oscilloscope.

I must have offered to help you out 20 times now. you have my phone number - im pretty much free this weekend! Let me give you a hand!

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 3:37 pm

dane i,m ringing

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:34 pm

Did you let smoke out Wil?

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:15 pm

Suby Wan Kenobi wrote:Did you let smoke out Wil?

please explain

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:15 am

He is asking if you fried wires, shorted and then let the smoke out of them. Did you find out what you wanted from under the Vortex?