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My front right CV joint on my L series has been damaged (broken CV boot) and has started to make the 'clicking' noise. I don't have alot of experience with cars, but I am mechanically minded. What is involved with replacing it, how difficult is it and how much am I looking at? Alternatively, would I be better off to take it to a mechanic and have them do it?

Bit of an unlucky time of year for it to happen money-wise so i'm hoping this is something i can do myself.

Thanks guys!

I'll give you a quick basic rundown of how to do it, feel free to ask questions about it though.

1) Loosen the wheel nuts slightly on the front right wheel.
2) Remove the cotter pin from the RH front hub and loosen the castle nut slightly (just break the initial torque).
3) Jack the front of the car up and support it with axle stands.
4) Take the front right wheel off.
5) Remove the castle nut.
6) Using a pin punch (6mm I think?) drive the split pin out of the inner CV joint, where it connects to the gearbox.
7) Remove the two 14mm hex bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle, one faces the front of the vehicle and locates the strut, the other faces inwards and holds the strut in the knuckle.
Drive a wedge (ie cold chisel or large screwdriver) into the split at the back of the knuckle to drop it off the shock.
9) You should now be able to remove the inner CV from the gearbox output stub.
10) Remove the entire shaft back through the other way, pushing the outer CV joint out of the hub. Sometimes they are stuck in there, if this is the case put the castle nut back on the wrong way around for a few threads then gently persuade with a rubber mallet or hammer.

-- You should have now removed the entire RH shaft from the vehicle --

To replace the inner joint:
1) Remove the CV band from the inner joint (ie cut it off)
2) Pry the boot back, exposing the innards of the joint (messy!)
3) Remove the circlip from the inside of the CV cup, this is the steel ring running around the "top" of the cup. I usually do this with my fingernails.
4) Remove the inner cup from the shaft.
5) Using some external circlip pliers, remove the circlip at the end of the axle shaft.
6) Remove the cage, balls, race and boot from the axle.

To install basically put everything back together as it came apart. Make sure you slide the boot onto the shaft first, and don't forget plenty of CV grease (molybdenum disulphide)! The new CV bands can be easily installed with a pair of pliers, have a play about with them in your hands first and you'll see how they work. A proper CV banding tool will allow you to get a lot more torque on them, thats usually not necessary if its a standard car. Finally, I'd advise in making sure there's no grease on the outside of the cup in the ridge that the band sits into, this can lead to the boot slipping off during operation.

You'll probably want to replace the cotter pin from the wheel hub too.


EDIT: Maybe I should do this up as a tech manual write-up?

I beleive replacing the outer joint is abit more difficult. I think it requires a special tool to separate the ball bearing cage from the cup to enable you to get it off the shaft.

I would follow Tim's guide on how to remove the complete shaft then bring it into a CV joint place to have them do it. You'd save alot of labour by removing the shaft yourself.

these days its just a cheap to put a whole exchange shaft in it that way you no your inner wont stuff up too....ive resently just done mine hey there easy
I dont undo the shocker bolts but i undo the the lower ball joint bolt instead...but if ya not sure just follows TIMS ride up and you shouldnt have any problems..

AndrewT wrote:I beleive replacing the outer joint is abit more difficult. I think it requires a special tool to separate the ball bearing cage from the cup to enable you to get it off the shaft.

I would follow Tim's guide on how to remove the complete shaft then bring it into a CV joint place to have them do it. You'd save alot of labour by removing the shaft yourself.

No, just put the castle nut back on it in REVERSE with some of it still protruding, and go at it with a persuader, you should only be hitting the castle nut. Usually just needs one or two good taps.
The reverse protects the thread, so you can still get it off, even if there is minor swishing of the thread.

Further to tim_81coupe list, as this is specific to L series,
at step 7) you will find if you remove the stabilizer bolts the hub will easly drop away to allow easy access. Use a jack to slightly lift it first to allow easy bolt removal.
Reinstall the stabilizer bolts as a last step, using a jack to push it back up into alignment to re-insert the bolt.

Tim didn't mention the tools you need.
For the castle nut, my preferred is 24" shifter, easy as, since you only need to balance and stand on the shaft. 36mm socket&driver is the best way though but will cost more to obtain and needs more effort i reckon.

fredsub wrote:No, just put the castle nut back on it in REVERSE with some of it still protruding, and go at it with a persuader, you should only be hitting the castle nut. Usually just needs one or two good taps.
The reverse protects the thread, so you can still get it off, even if there is minor swishing of the thread.

Yeah I wasn't talking about removing the outer CV from the hub, that's very easy just as you've described. I was talking about removing the outer CV from the actual shaft to replace it.

Don't forget the castle nut tesion... someone's quoted 115 foot pounds in another thread somewhere (good directions yeah?)

OEM NTC CV joints come off easily enough , its the aftermarket ones that put up a fight . This works for me with OEM CV joints .

Once the entire DOJ and both boots are removed clean the grease off the shaft so you can hold it securely .

Not going any further , I'm sick and bloody tired of this site timing out when I do long posts and when it refreshes I lose my post .