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okay, so i thought i'd make a new thread with pictures explaing how and where to weld a diff now that i know how... BEST TO DO REMOVED FROM VEHICLE

step 1: drain oil, remove cover plate

step 2: degrease (lots), rinse with water

step 3: use metholated spirits to remove residue around weld area, fill diff with water (reduces chance of fire and splatter sticking to gears underneath) and let weld area dry again

step 4: insert 2 appropriatley sized bolts, preferably high tensile carbon steel bolts (aquired from bunnings, the black ones)

step 5: turn welder up nice and high, start welding all the teeth together and to the bolts, fill out to flush with bolts, taking care not to arc on gears, also set welder to minimize splatter.

step 6: rotate gears to exspose opposite side of spider gears and repeat steps 3, 4 and 5

step 7: drain water. remove any splatter on visible gears using sand paper/fine file. Reseal, fill with oil, install into car.

NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING, ENSURE CV'S ARE ALIGNED CORRECTLY. LEAVE DRIVERS SIDE CV OUT, REMOVE FROM VEHICLE COMPLETELY (THIS IS EASY TO INSTALL LATER)


bolts in place ready to weld


welded out to flush of the bolts, plenty of grab between teeth


picture of internal set up showing weld area (diff is upside down on the table)

TO INSTALL DRIVERS SIDE CV (REQUIRE JACK, HAMMER, PIN PUNCH AND ROLL PINS) AND LOCK REAR END, JACK UP REAR DRIVERS SIDE TILL WHEEL IS FREE SPINNING, THIS WILL PROVIDE ENOUGH SPACE BETWEEN DIFF STUFF AND WHEEL STUB TO INSERT SHAFT, ONCE AGAIN YOU WILL NEED TO ENSURE CORRECT ALIGNMENT OF THE SPLINES. ONCE IN POSITION, LOWER VEHICLE

FINISHED

and turn it around and weld the reverse side of the spider gears .....i made that mistake

oh yeah, forgot that bit in the instructions.... i did do it though

btw...nice welding job...Mr im a perfect welder ...hahah

Did you use a mig or a stick?
looks like a mig, dam good weld
what setting did you use?

yeah, solid wire mig... i use a single phase CIGWELD 250 maxed out... meant to run on 15amps but i just made an adaptor and run it off 10amps. Used argoshield gas.

"btw...nice welding job...Mr im a perfect welder ...hahah"

hey... its what i do:)

what mig wire did you use there ? stainless wire i'm guessing since you used argon......

yea i have done all my corses at tafe but im out of practice cos being a mechanic dosnt call for much welding

that's hot!

fredsub wrote:what mig wire did you use there ? stainless wire i'm guessing since you used argon......

nah, just normal steel wire. there is a diffrence between argon and argoshield. argon is 99.9% pure argon whilst argo shield is a mix of argon and nitrogen. The nitrogen aids penetration. Stell will weld like s h i t if you use argon only... very cold weld, hard to get side wall fusion and bugger all penetration. And you use Stainshield for stainless mig, thats mixed argon with a bit of oxygen.

and then all that changes for TIG welding too.... argon is the generic gas for most metals on tig ie: ali, stainless, titanium, carbon steel etc etc etc... the only other gas i have used with tig is BOC special, argon and 1.7% nitrogen, used for 2507, saf etc.

never know, that info might come in handy one day

Vidler... it's a diff not a sculpture... good stuff dude... can u make me a model of my car out of weld.

Dave

i'd try but i dont wanna suprise myself:)

isn't it a pain in the ass driving a welded rear on pawed road? or is it ok? I'm ofcourse talking about turns...

They take one of the rear axles out on the road... everytime u go offroad u have to put it back in though. It's one of the only downsides to this mod.

Dave

but it only takes a couple of minutes. if you have power steering u wont notice it. just skipd the tyres so if you have a nice exspensive set of off road rubber, it'd be in your best interest to remove the axle when on road

El_Freddo wrote:

Shave 7mm off these buggers, jack up the RHS wheel and remove the shaft for on road driving.

As for actually welding the diff, the images above with the bolts is over kill but will do the job - really any contact point of the spider gears needs to be welded, so this makes each gear welded together where they mesh, and also weld across the top of each gear so it's welded to the housing. This will ensure they don't move.

Also a good idea to keep things cool if you don't remove the bearings off the sides.

You need to remove the diff output stubs to get the centre out, but you can weld it in place if you're careful.

Cheers

Bennie

Found this very useful!! cheers Bennie!