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when i have fitted other dizzys very similar to these subi dizzies, i have fitted with the timing pointer on the timing MARK ie 10 btdc, lined up the dizzy cog and body marks and 'shlop', it is in and starts.

The factory manual just says to get #1 on TDC then match the scale, presume this means get piston on tdc before look at scale on flywheel then zoom in on ? TDC ? the factory diagram shows pointer on 8 btdc.

the gregorys manual says to set it to the timing mark

in the turbo case , i guess that is 20 btdc

instructions not the clearest at times !

have actually fitted it on tdc but gut says i should pull it out and do it my way. not yet tried to start - no ready yet - no ecu fitted - needs a raincoat

what have you EA82 gurus and the like, done ?

Jono, I had this same problem when i dropped my rebuilt MPFI in... i took the cam cover off to find when #1 was on TDC at firing point. a bit of playing around after that and she started first go, it was a great feeling, but i was still annoyed that i didn't get it right the first time.

Check out the PDF subaru manuals here(last post), particularly the first manual in the engine section, page 23 of the engine section or page 166 in the PDF. This shows you how to line up the camshafts for the distributor to be installed correctly... I wish i had of found this manual before my engine rebuilt but that's murphy's law for you.

Hope this saves you lots of hassle and time.

Cheers

When i put mine i lined up the 0deg mark on the flywheel, then put the dizzy in so that the rotor pointed to sparkplug 1.

thanks fellas, the gut says if all is lined up to fire at 20 deg btdc, line up dizzy cast marks and dimple on cog, set engine to 20btdc on #1 compression stroke and shove it in, bolt her in and that should be spot on. You'd think the factory manuals would state things clearly, but tink they got lost in the translation

Yeah, the trick to this is finding where TDC for #1 is as the fly wheel does two revolutions to every one of the cam shaft, this was why i took the cam cover off. Bloody messy when you've already tried to get it going, but if your yet to put oil in it your set.

Have fun and i hope you get it right the first time, cos doing it a second is just a pain in the arse (learnt from experience)

Cheers

to get the right TDC get a long skinny finger in the spark plug 'ole to feel the air pressure building up towards turning to TDC. Have just removed the ceramic of a spark plug and shoved a piece of hose in its back end to facillitate with this. strap a balloon on the end?

never thought of this... i'll have to try this next time...

and Project Cheap Grief stops here for the time being. I finished off the engine bay, new plugs, new air filter. fitted all the panels inside that came undone and charged up the battery, and the booster standby battery and cranked her over. No fire so changed dizzy position a few times, then found no fuel at fuel line. Hooked up battery to fuel pump and it buzzed away and pumped it forward to the bottle. So now got fuel and still no start. So brain says check fuel pressure, and spark (any spark anywhere for starters will do !) I have this SCRAPING noise coming from the drive plate/torque converter that began after bolting them up, suspecting it is just the tin inspection plate under. Suddenly lost interest as the other engineless brumby is getting in the way so time will be dedicated to it and getting those bloody gudgeon pins out !!

It was the little tin 'inspection' plate and what a bastard it was to remove it. Pushed bogged GLTA into shed, stands, lift engine ff mounts and dropped engine crossmember and finally my 3/8 drive unijointed 10mm socket got in there and did the job. The ring gear was slowly eating up the edge of the plate. and PHEW, thought the engine was to come out again for that noise !

Now, for another go at starting Grief