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I am thinking about changing the standard clutch fan on my L-series to a electric, has anyone done this and if so what did you use? Because you have to leave the pulley in place for the fan belt?

Subafury has recently done this..i think it is a tons better way to go.
he used a fan from his work which seems alright. (12 inch i think)

leaving the pulley inplace is no biggy.the bolts that hold the fan on can be put back on. but if theres not enough thread for em to hold the pulley up tight then pack em out with a few washers.

did this with the sedan I had - 10" fan tripped via a relay off the OE temp sensor. removed the other fan and bolted the pulley back on with the original nuts. loctite is a good idea. made a BIG difference in operating temp.

Mine has two Thermos already, only thing is they only come in on triggering by the heat sensor swith in the radiator (which is too late I reckon) or when the A/C is turned on, which can also aggravate on overheating problem. Best to wire up a manual overide switch off the Thermo sensor to allow you to turn them on any time.

can highly reccomend a fan conversion (also have one for sale!!)

The locktite coment had me laughing - when i installed a fan B4 a flinders trip, i remeber thinking, while using the locktite freely, hope i do not have to take this in a hurry.

2 days later near Bliman, i staked it. Pulling radiator out of an L is dead simple...normally. With my new set up, the fan had to come out first! Trying to undo locktite by torchlight in the rain, wind and cold at 10pm in the middle of nowhere is not exactly fun. Brazed up the hole, re-installed without the fan, hotwired the AC fan, was ok(ish) for the remainder of the trip.

I took the Fan off today. I've been running the car without except for that silly little backup fan which has only come on twice but it is only 20 degrees in Adelaide today. I will get a thermo fan tomorrow.

Yeah best way is as Busdriver suggested, wire them so u control them manually. Just need to flick the switch when you stop for a while or if its hot day. If your a forgetful person or would prefer the car do the work then wire in a relay to be triggered by something, sure someone can suggest how to get this right, there's a round white wire connector on the drivers side of the rad for the AC fan from memory. If you install a second one, definitely run it manually, that way u can have one on all the time if you prefer.

be warned, cos the clutch fan does blow an absolute gale...

unless your having overheating troubles i wouldnt touch it.

perhaps save the $$ and wire your secondary thermo(which i bet hardly ever comes on) to a switch in your dash. This is the setup i had with my old ea82, and it never did me wrong.

just my 2c

alex

I have two Gen 1/2 Liberty fans if you want.
Cheers
AP

I'm finding that yes the viscous hub fan does blow a gale from probably 12-1300 rpm up . At idle its not so good and these days I just bridge out the radiators temp switch plug on warm days . The switch just makes/breaks the fan relays earth switch circuit . I'd really like a lower temp switch for the radiator as this would make it all work automatically . If anyone knows of a lower temp switch that fits pass the info along .

There is a kit you can buy which places a bulb into the rads top tank via the top hose , they supply a piece of rubber with a slot for the tube which supposedly seals coolant . On the outside is a variable resistor type dial which you set at what temperature you like . It has two male spade fittings that you wire to your fan relays earth switch circit and away you go - dial a fan . The damage is about $58 + .

Just for laughs I lifted Ellies idle speed from around 700 to 850-900 because this will increase the water pumps idle speed and also the viscous hub fan pulls a little more air . Just on this I've had both fans running at times and I've noticed that the air temp behind the elec fan increases when I open the throttle to a fast idle ie 13-1500 revs . I can only think that the higher water pump speed moves water a little faster and the airflow pulls out a bit more heat . Can anyone tell me if a high mileage L series water pump loses any of its water pump rotor vanes to corrosion ? If the impellers not all there then that could explain some cooling issues .

Cheers and thanks , A .

no water pump impellers dont corrode away. they are usually cast iron and wont. the Seal usually goes first after the bearings start wearing and then leaks outta the weep hole on the outer casing just behind the pulley bolts.

i use to haev my idle at 1000. with one fan running with teh ignition and the other turning on with higher temps.

My thermo fan runs off a switch next to the stereo in the car. After a while it just becomes habit to switch it on. The only thing with it is that it becomes hot after a while with it switched on as its a metal switch.

Also running a fan off the motor will cut the power of the motor back a bit but the benefits are better.

Suby Roo wrote:The only thing with it is that it becomes hot after a while

Is that coz the switch has a light in it? If not should it be getting hot? Sounds like a problem if its not a lit switch.

the switch should have a realy in it
unless ur tryin to set fire to ur car

It runs through a relay to the switch with is just a standard metal one. Not sure why it does it but im getting it checked out soon because something else is wrong with it.

years ago I put a thermo fan on a Ford Escort that I had and the fan had a sensor that you put into the radiator through the cap which was connected to an adjustable switch a bit like a volume control on a stereo. So if you thought the fan wasn't coming on soon enough you adjust it so did.