Ea82 Oil Pressure Prob
Ea82 Oil Pressure Prob
Here is an Ea82 with and oil prob this time around, what happens is when the car is started in the morning the oil light doesn’t go off stays for about 10mins then goes. Or when the engine get hot the light comes again, once you rev it over 1500 light goes again, goes below 1500 revs light comes again. The motor has a new oil pump its hardly a month old. Think it has an oil pressure prob not sure…
I was thinking what if I put thick oil in it like mix a bit of diesel oil hehehe, need a solution for this…
Thnks
I was thinking what if I put thick oil in it like mix a bit of diesel oil hehehe, need a solution for this…
Thnks
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Do your lifters tick?
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- Suby Wan Kenobi
- General Member
- Posts: 1914
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Sunny Godwin Beach Qld
Is it rattling its self to pieces during this 10min start up. If not remove the wire to the oil pressue switch and start the car then earth the wire if the light comes on the wire is ok.
If the oil pressure switch looks like its been leaking from the plasitic top its probably buggered. Next, with the engine stopped remove the oil pressur switch and then with a drill bit the size of the hole in the switch wind the drill in by hand till it stops and see how much crap there is in the switch itself. Re instal and see if the problem is still there.
Last thing you really want to do is add thick oil as it will hamper its ability to get into the lifter
If the oil pressure switch looks like its been leaking from the plasitic top its probably buggered. Next, with the engine stopped remove the oil pressur switch and then with a drill bit the size of the hole in the switch wind the drill in by hand till it stops and see how much crap there is in the switch itself. Re instal and see if the problem is still there.
Last thing you really want to do is add thick oil as it will hamper its ability to get into the lifter
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
The long road ahead
The long road ahead
Whatever you do, don't do that...amk wrote:
I was thinking what if I put thick oil in it like mix a bit of diesel oil hehehe, need a solution for this…
Thnks

Julian
2004 Outback H6
2004 Forester XS
Organ donation saves lives
2004 Outback H6
2004 Forester XS
Organ donation saves lives
- discopotato03
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2134
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
- Location: Sydney
Any chance of getting an oil pressure gauge and screwing it in where the switch came out of? That will tell you something.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Busdriver, 91 L Enduro Wagon, stock ,for now.
Lots of Ks,A/C, MP3 sometimes(if its not dark) singing steering wheel cover which I listen too when its dark.
Suby Newbie
Lots of Ks,A/C, MP3 sometimes(if its not dark) singing steering wheel cover which I listen too when its dark.
Suby Newbie
Guy’s thanks for you help on this.
Yes the lifters tick terribly.
The Oil switch and the switch wire are ok tested them.
When the oil light is on, the engine is so rough knocking sound comes from the motor, when I depress the clutch the knocking sound calms down… think its messing the crankshaft up, think the crankshaft has a play
lifters tick terribly its like the car doesnt want to move like forcing it to move.
Once the oil light goes off motor’s fines knocking sound goes lifters tick but not as bad as when the light is on.
Anything I can put in the motor to stop this because if this carries on I think it will mess up the crankshaft, main bearings, con-bearing etc…
Yes the lifters tick terribly.
The Oil switch and the switch wire are ok tested them.
When the oil light is on, the engine is so rough knocking sound comes from the motor, when I depress the clutch the knocking sound calms down… think its messing the crankshaft up, think the crankshaft has a play

Once the oil light goes off motor’s fines knocking sound goes lifters tick but not as bad as when the light is on.
Anything I can put in the motor to stop this because if this carries on I think it will mess up the crankshaft, main bearings, con-bearing etc…
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
If it makes bad noises when the oil light comes on, you have an oil pressure problem.
Why did you replace the pump?
If the pump is new it sounds like you have internal damage, you might want to start looking for a replacement engine
Why did you replace the pump?
If the pump is new it sounds like you have internal damage, you might want to start looking for a replacement engine
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Did you put in the oil pump, or someone else? I ask because it does need to go in the right way - A and B side, easy to do, heck I did it first time too.
Also check oil leakage under your timing covers, the micky mouse gasket for the oil pump may be stuffed.
If you disconnect the ignition and just turn the motor a bit with the starter, it should turn over smoothly, anything else and something is seriously wrong....start with the oil pump
hope this helps, good luck
Also check oil leakage under your timing covers, the micky mouse gasket for the oil pump may be stuffed.
If you disconnect the ignition and just turn the motor a bit with the starter, it should turn over smoothly, anything else and something is seriously wrong....start with the oil pump
hope this helps, good luck
I think he was suggesting using Diesel OIL not Diesel fuel :Pjulian wrote:Whatever you do, don't do that...I have heard of people using diesel to flush a dirty block, but not running. Oil pressure sensor shagged maybe???
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
I changed the oil pump because of the same reason I thought the oil pump is weak since I never changed that before, once I put the new oil pump for about a week it was perfect then started the oil problem again.
When I put the new oil pump I had changed the crank shaft the bearings etc because the previous oil pump wasn’t giving enough oil so it damaged the crankshaft the bearings etc.
Now again I’m back to zero same prob, and motors here are not cheap.
I rebuilt the engine myself did everything correctly the other EA82’s I did were perfect only this 1 is misbehaving.
Yes the oil level is perfect.
Ill check the micky mouse gasket again.
Anything else that I should check? please don’t say I should open the entire motor till the crankshaft
When I put the new oil pump I had changed the crank shaft the bearings etc because the previous oil pump wasn’t giving enough oil so it damaged the crankshaft the bearings etc.
Now again I’m back to zero same prob, and motors here are not cheap.
I rebuilt the engine myself did everything correctly the other EA82’s I did were perfect only this 1 is misbehaving.
Yes the oil level is perfect.
Ill check the micky mouse gasket again.
Anything else that I should check? please don’t say I should open the entire motor till the crankshaft

Crankshaft bearing clunks that diminish when the clutch is operated are from the crank main bearings.
As Matatak said "Are the bearings the correct size?" If you had a crank that was reground 20 thou undersize and used standard bearings it would produce this effect. Similarly a 40 thou undersize shaft with 20 thou undersize bearings etc.
Just a thought.
Rob
As Matatak said "Are the bearings the correct size?" If you had a crank that was reground 20 thou undersize and used standard bearings it would produce this effect. Similarly a 40 thou undersize shaft with 20 thou undersize bearings etc.
Just a thought.
Rob
exactly wt i meant.Rob_D wrote:Crankshaft bearing clunks that diminish when the clutch is operated are from the crank main bearings.
As Matatak said "Are the bearings the correct size?" If you had a crank that was reground 20 thou undersize and used standard bearings it would produce this effect. Similarly a 40 thou undersize shaft with 20 thou undersize bearings etc.
Just a thought.
Rob
sorry didnt elaborate further when i said that.
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