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Hello -

So I've started the task of replacing the water pump on a 1989 Legacy (Liberty) 2.0 TZ Wagon Manual and have reached a road block.

Following the instructions in my Gregory's manual I've got the radiator out and removed the Alternator and A/C Belts and starter motor with much drama.

Now I'm up to:-
"Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning using a suitable lever and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt"

- So any advice on what makes a good "suitable lever"?
- Should I try getting the lever jammed in the flywheel teeth or is there a better option/alternative. I've had more success jamming a screwdriver in what looks like the clutch pressure plate housing. But am concerned I'm gonna snap off the end of my screwdriver.
- Is the Crankshaft Pulley Bolt reverse thread?? I'm trying to turn it counter clockwise with a fair amout of force but it ain't playing ball.

Any advice/help would be much appreciated.

Matt (NZ)

heh.. the dangerous thing is to use a breaker bar somewhere solid and tight and undo the coil pack module plug and turn the engine over once then it'll undo the crank bolt... Its not reverse thread. Normally you would use rattle hummer gun to do that but if you dont then breaker bar would be fine, I used my about 500mm long breaker bar, turn her up once and it was done..
Cheers
AP

Put the car in 5th gear with the handbrake on, that should stop it.

I like the `feed rope into piston chamber' approach - done that with the Brumby and it's cake.

Dean.

usually get it if ya have a long enough Breaker bar and a BFH (and no not a tiny one a decent one lol) without blocking it from turning.

but if its hard then 5th and handbrake like Suparoo says shuld do it.

dont expect to get it with ya hands either. they shuld be done up REALLY tight.
sumthin like 150NM Plus comes to mind.
tighter than Hub/Castle nuts neway

i just did mine- 5th gear and hanbrake plus breaker bar with pole extention= sucess

5th gear and handbrake did the trick.

Cheers chaps - Much appreciated!!

Matatak wrote:they shuld be done up REALLY tight.
sumthin like 150NM Plus comes to mind.

103-118Nm with thread locker according to the manual.

I recently used a small crowbar through the timing hole (the rubber plug on the airbox side). Anything strong enough to stick in the flywheel teeth will do the job. Also can do through starter motor hole but I found that harder with the tool I was to use.

When I changed mine i used a piece of wire through the hole in the crankshaft pulley and tied it to the A/C mounting bracket. Leave the wire on so it can be used for tightening it up again.

I use one half of a main bearing from a mini(old one of course) and wedge it in the ring gear. Will not move and wont drop into the space below. To be sure hook a piece of wire through the oil hole in the bearing and attach it to something...Will not break, only need you to use it and is easy to remove once finished.

Hooroo

The best method I've found is via the use of a custom built tool which I've borrowed off Oversteer.

It's a round piece of metal with 4 bolts welded to it plus a massive breaker bar welded to it. The 4 bolts slip into 4 holes which are in your crank pulley. The round piece of metal has a hole in the middle to allow access to the pulley bolt.

You just put a breaker bar & socket on the crank pulley bolt, grab hold of the custom tool's breaker bar and push them in opposite directions.

Hardly any force is required with long bars, and theres no requirement to lock the engine up by jamming things in different places or otherwise.

I took a photo of it when I used it during my recent RX build but my phone died so I lost it. I highly recommend making one if you find the need to crack crank pulley bolts fairly regularly!