Wiring of extra spots
Wiring of extra spots
Can someone give me some help with wiring additional spot lamps with a relay. The negative swithing thing has got me foxed. I have a 2007 Forester and cannot get the lights to work properly. I have them wired so that they activate on high beam, but when I turn the lights off or the car, they come on. Any ideas?
Spots problem
Thanks for the diagram. The lights still come on when the light switch is off. As soon as you turn the car on with the lights off, the spots illuminate. Any other thoughts?
Hi Guys,
After trying everything, it was eventually worked out. Connect battery +ve to 30, Lights to 87, positive high beam wire to 86, switching wire high beam wire (black one) to 85 and the lights earth wires to negative battery terminal. Walla! Because of the fangled negative switching system, there is no other way of doing this with one realy! Thanks for all the help!
After trying everything, it was eventually worked out. Connect battery +ve to 30, Lights to 87, positive high beam wire to 86, switching wire high beam wire (black one) to 85 and the lights earth wires to negative battery terminal. Walla! Because of the fangled negative switching system, there is no other way of doing this with one realy! Thanks for all the help!
- El_Freddo
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!!! Not meaning to get my knickers in a knot but this is the same thing as the above diagram I gave you. I bet if you swap 85 and 86 around it will all be the same...revkev wrote:Hi Guys,
After trying everything, it was eventually worked out. Connect battery +ve to 30, Lights to 87, positive high beam wire to 86, switching wire high beam wire (black one) to 85 and the lights earth wires to negative battery terminal. Walla! Because of the fangled negative switching system, there is no other way of doing this with one realy! Thanks for all the help!
Glad its sorted and you're happy with it.
Cheers
Bennie
- steptoe
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NOTICE for the benefit of those that have been fooled by Subarus negative switching as used on L series, MY and appears to be Foresters as well (must be all Subies!)
The important bit on the sketch by el freddo but not made it into words is: the you-fit-in-dash switch for the driving lights needs to be powered up through an * IGN ON source for this circuit to work OTHERWISE you will find as I have just done that when HIGH BEAM is on at the headlight the switch wire at the light RED/WHITE trace on L SERIES has EARTH, no earth when park or headlights are on and the FRUSTRATING discovery is that this bloody wire has earth again when all lights switches are off, so it will just turn your driving lights on !!
Or configure a second relay into the circuit as revkev hints at. BUGGER, means more wiring than I was planning on or find another relay to trcik the other relay or pop in to 12volt.com to see some of their tricky wiring up of relays to solve other problems.
Bennie, I missed the important bit when looking at your diagram, can you highlight it in edit function.Ta
The important bit on the sketch by el freddo but not made it into words is: the you-fit-in-dash switch for the driving lights needs to be powered up through an * IGN ON source for this circuit to work OTHERWISE you will find as I have just done that when HIGH BEAM is on at the headlight the switch wire at the light RED/WHITE trace on L SERIES has EARTH, no earth when park or headlights are on and the FRUSTRATING discovery is that this bloody wire has earth again when all lights switches are off, so it will just turn your driving lights on !!
Or configure a second relay into the circuit as revkev hints at. BUGGER, means more wiring than I was planning on or find another relay to trcik the other relay or pop in to 12volt.com to see some of their tricky wiring up of relays to solve other problems.
Bennie, I missed the important bit when looking at your diagram, can you highlight it in edit function.Ta
- AlpineRaven
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- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
I agree.. Ive figured out with I installed HIDs (later removed them again!)steptoe wrote:NOTICE for the benefit of those that have been fooled by Subarus negative switching as used on L series, MY and appears to be Foresters as well (must be all Subies!)
The important bit on the sketch by el freddo but not made it into words is: the you-fit-in-dash switch for the driving lights needs to be powered up through an * IGN ON source for this circuit to work OTHERWISE you will find as I have just done that when HIGH BEAM is on at the headlight the switch wire at the light RED/WHITE trace on L SERIES has EARTH, no earth when park or headlights are on and the FRUSTRATING discovery is that this bloody wire has earth again when all lights switches are off, so it will just turn your driving lights on !!
Or configure a second relay into the circuit as revkev hints at. BUGGER, means more wiring than I was planning on or find another relay to trcik the other relay or pop in to 12volt.com to see some of their tricky wiring up of relays to solve other problems.
Bennie, I missed the important bit when looking at your diagram, can you highlight it in edit function.Ta
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

- steptoe
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gone back 17 pages in electric section which is two years worth and Xtreme RX says they are both neg and pos switched. I do recall the12volt.com site had one relay hook up to reverse polarity of switching. Gotta find it as I always used two.I think reverse the earth switching then just hook up as normal from that signal and hope.... it has bugged a few just in the last two years I can see from the search 

- phillatdarwin
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just have a feel of all the wiring when you have had the spots on for a while and check none of the wires are getting warm, this would indicate wires are overloaded and can lead to melting/fires or lights failing. a warm wire is wasting electricity (and if the insulation melts all the smoke will escape and the lights won't work if the smoke escapes)and stopping the lights from getting full power. A tiny bit warm is not too bad but preferable the cable is thick enough not to get warm at all.
06 O/B driving lights.
Hi. I've used similar wiring in my 99 o/b and it worked fine. images/smilies/icon_smile.gif The exact same circuit in my 06 o/b works great, BUThttp://www.ausubaru.com.au/images/smilies/confused.gif, the drivers come on with the parking lights, go out with low beam and back on with high beam. As for picking up the switched wire for high beam I took mine from the left hand high beam lamp and mounted the relay just in front of the battery. It then requires only one wire to go to the dash switch, plus the 12V of course. Just to confuse the issue, some of the circuits are earth switched while others (e.g. parkers) are switched on the positive 12v rail.El_Freddo wrote:Try this out, I've made the diagram for this specific purpose... Also for my reference
Bennie
Segref
Yeah I wired up my 99 Outback using the fog light switch (don't have fog lights anymore because of the roo-bar) and it does the same - Spotties come on with park lights and high-beam but not low-beam - I decided I could live with thatSegref wrote:Hi. I've used similar wiring in my 99 o/b and it worked fine. images/smilies/icon_smile.gif The exact same circuit in my 06 o/b works great, BUThttp://www.ausubaru.com.au/images/smilies/confused.gif, the drivers come on with the parking lights, go out with low beam and back on with high beam. As for picking up the switched wire for high beam I took mine from the left hand high beam lamp and mounted the relay just in front of the battery. It then requires only one wire to go to the dash switch, plus the 12V of course. Just to confuse the issue, some of the circuits are earth switched while others (e.g. parkers) are switched on the positive 12v rail.
Segref

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- Gannon
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- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
I dont understand why this is so hard.
The 85 and 86 supplies for the relay should both be taken from the back of the high beam bulb, its that easy
The only connection to the battery or ground is for the new lights themselves. Do not connect anything related to the relay coil to battery or ground
This image was drawn for L series wiring but the principle is the same

The 85 and 86 supplies for the relay should both be taken from the back of the high beam bulb, its that easy
The only connection to the battery or ground is for the new lights themselves. Do not connect anything related to the relay coil to battery or ground
This image was drawn for L series wiring but the principle is the same

Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- 60766244
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This is how I did it bar some minor adjustments as per my thread on the subject. Was so, so, so much easier than other methods suggested ans used before.Gannon wrote:I dont understand why this is so hard.
The 85 and 86 supplies for the relay should both be taken from the back of the high beam bulb, its that easy
The only connection to the battery or ground is for the new lights themselves. Do not connect anything related to the relay coil to battery or ground
This image was drawn for L series wiring but the principle is the same
I said thank you then, and I'll say it again. Cheers!
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.

Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?
|| Ausubaru Wiki: New AUSubaru Wiki, About the Wiki || My Ex, Maple the Brumby, Rack, Lift Kit, Raptor-Liner Tray || Shed: Benches ||
Driving lights
Hi Gannon.Gannon wrote: The 85 and 86 supplies for the relay should both be taken from the back of the high beam bulb
I understand what you've done but am at a loss as to the reason behind it, unless it's the crazy wiring system Subi have adopted.
I have wired as your circuit and all is well. Since I don't like ugly switches hanging out of my dash I have used a tiny tact switch with an electronic latching circuit. This meant installing a second relay to switch the 12v to the first.
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- Gannon
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The only reason I have wired the circuit like this is that its guaranteed to work in any vehicle, negative or positive switched circuits. If there is voltage at the high beam filament, the relay will operate.Segref wrote: I understand what you've done but am at a loss as to the reason behind it, unless it's the crazy wiring system Subi have adopted.
You dont have to go searching for a ground or a fused positive supply for the relay and switch, its already supplied by the factory headlight wiring
There is nothing crazy about the way Subaru have wired their lights, its quite common to have a constant positive supply and switch the ground. The only trick is that you have to understand that its different to positive switched circuits.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Crazy wiring
I like your reasoning and the principle is quite sound. The only reason I suggested the wiring was crazy is that some circuits (low and high beam) are negative switched while others (parkers) are positive switched. As an electronics tech I have no real problem with either but swapping from one to the other does seem a bit radical.Gannon wrote: There is nothing crazy about the way Subaru have wired their lights.
- El_Freddo
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Yep some are positive switched, some are negative. When I produced that image I couldn't remember where I sourced that 12v that came on with ignition. My lights will turn on if I turn the parkers off and have the in-cab switch ON - I need to change this to what Gannon has done in his diagram that doesn't look like a 5 year old made it... I wish I knew how to update it!Segref wrote:images/smilies/icon_smile.gif The exact same circuit in my 06 o/b works great, BUT the drivers come on with the parking lights, go out with low beam and back on with high beam. As for picking up the switched wire for high beam I took mine from the left hand high beam lamp and mounted the relay just in front of the battery. It then requires only one wire to go to the dash switch, plus the 12V of course. Just to confuse the issue, some of the circuits are earth switched while others (e.g. parkers) are switched on the positive 12v rail.
It's so hard because the wiring diagram on the packaging shows it being different - and it doesn't work with the negative switching system...Gannon wrote:I dont understand why this is so hard.
I think this is what catches people out... Maybe.Gannon wrote:There is nothing crazy about the way Subaru have wired their lights, its quite common to have a constant positive supply and switch the ground. The only trick is that you have to understand that its different to positive switched circuits.
Cheers
Bennie
- El_Freddo
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Yep some are positive switched, some are negative. When I produced that image I couldn't remember where I sourced that 12v that came on with ignition. My lights will turn on if I turn the parkers off and have the in-cab switch ON - I need to change this to what Gannon has done in his diagram that doesn't look like a 5 year old made it... I wish I knew how to update it!Segref wrote:images/smilies/icon_smile.gif The exact same circuit in my 06 o/b works great, BUT the drivers come on with the parking lights, go out with low beam and back on with high beam. As for picking up the switched wire for high beam I took mine from the left hand high beam lamp and mounted the relay just in front of the battery. It then requires only one wire to go to the dash switch, plus the 12V of course. Just to confuse the issue, some of the circuits are earth switched while others (e.g. parkers) are switched on the positive 12v rail.
It's so hard because the wiring diagram on the packaging shows it being different - and it doesn't work with the negative switching system...Gannon wrote:I dont understand why this is so hard.
I think this is what catches people out... Maybe.Gannon wrote:There is nothing crazy about the way Subaru have wired their lights, its quite common to have a constant positive supply and switch the ground. The only trick is that you have to understand that its different to positive switched circuits.
Cheers
Bennie