High beam trigger for spotties

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Richos
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High beam trigger for spotties

Post by Richos » Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:03 pm

Hi all, I just installed some new spotties (Narva Ultima blue 175's) on the front of my 07 forester and wired them up as per the diagram supplied with an on/off switch on the dash and a trigger from the relay to my high beam.
They are working fine however despite being wired to the HB3 high beam wires the spotties stay on whether the lights are on high or low beam?
Where is a better place to run the trigger from or have I perhaps done something wrong?
Any advice greatly appreciated Richo

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Kustomchris
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Post by Kustomchris » Fri Jan 24, 2014 6:01 pm

I had a simillar issue when i wired mine on my outback. I cant find any diagrams but im pretty sure i ended up having to wire the lights in a circuit off the + to - wires on the hb instead of earthing to the switch.
Im sure that the only way i managed to get them to work properly, im not electronically minded so dont quote me on this.

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subaruby
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Post by subaruby » Fri Jan 24, 2014 6:44 pm

They are negative switched, so the narva supplied diagram wont work. I discovered this when doing them on my o6 Foz.

I think I have a diagram somewhere, I will look for it.
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Post by subaruby » Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:23 pm

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]2006 Forester, AT tyres, Bash plate.
Suspension lift.

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NachaLuva
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Post by NachaLuva » Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:33 pm

Good old Subie negative switching...so confusing at first! :rolleyes:
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Richos
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Post by Richos » Sat Jan 25, 2014 10:10 pm

Thanks for the quick reply guys, I had heard of this negative earth thing on Subies before, I'll have another crack at it tomorrow.
Cheers Richo

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:15 am

Just connect the relay between the 2 outside pins of the H4 socket, polarity isnt important
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:02 am

Gannon to the rescue! I've done this with my spotties recently and they're working great as they should.

Before this I switched a wire somewhere in my conversion and learned to turn the spotties off when I had my lights off - otherwise they'd be on :/

Put the in cab switch on either side of the above diagram ;)

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Richos
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Post by Richos » Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:33 pm

The high and low beams are separate lamps on my forester, the high beam lamp only has 2 wires at the back, a red and a black?

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:39 pm

Richos wrote:The high and low beams are separate lamps on my forester, the high beam lamp only has 2 wires at the back, a red and a black?
You can tap into these wires too.

You'll find that these are factory "auxiliary" high beams for the want of a better term. The low beam lights will still switch to high beam. If you open the back of the light cover you'll see three wires on the back of the low beam light, which is the same as Gannon's diagram above ;)

Cheers

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Richos
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Post by Richos » Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:06 pm

Just worked it out, I ran the switch thru the 2 wires at the back of the high beam plug as it was much more accessible than the low beams. Gannon and Bennie I owe you a beer!

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NachaLuva
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Post by NachaLuva » Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:50 pm

Well done, glad you got it going :D Negative switching is a bit of a brain teaser lol
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Richos
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Post by Richos » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:54 pm

You're right about the brain teaser! Electrics have always been my downfall so i'm glad I got it right, I did a pretty neat job with the wiring too.
My mate thinks that negative switching might help prevent corrosion? Maybe someone on here can confirm this??
Cheers Richo
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]07 Forester, King springs, Subaxtreme bash plate, dueller a/t's and roof basket.

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:10 am

No it has nothing to do with corrosion, it makes no difference to how the device works, the switch is just simply after the load, not before it.
Most engine solenoids are negative switched because the way mosfets are setup for current sinking in the ecu.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:01 pm

Yep.. when fitting spot lights to later model Subaru, i.e. Liberty onwards, you'll need to connect the coil side of your relay directly to your headlight wiring.
Gannon wrote:Just connect the relay between the 2 outside pins of the H4 socket, polarity isnt important
Image
So using Gannon's pic and a standard hella (or similar) 12v relay, just join pin #85 and pin #86 to either side of this wiring loom. Or if you have separate high beams (like the Gen3 onwards) just join these pins to the 2 wires that go to your high beam globe. Then wire the rest of the loom like Bennie's diagram below but put your on/off switch before pin #30

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