HELP! 04 Forry EJ25 wont start!

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L-Raiser
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Post by L-Raiser » Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:02 am

AndrewT wrote:Radiator - you can either get your existing L series radiator upgraded to dual core and EJ inlet/outlets OR get an EJ radiator.
The custom L radiator option was costing me about $500 but works great.
To fit an EJ radiator you need to get the radiator support panel custom cut and welded as the EJ radiator is a fair bit taller, but you can get them to fit.
With either option you need to buy two very thin 12" thermo fans - the Davies Craig DC-12 is the best option but fairly expensive, I think about $160 each.

Driveshafts, jeesus cutting and shutting them isn't the best thing to do. I've heard of it done before quite sucessfully but in your case it should NOT be necessary. Crossbred kit allows the use of totally standard front EJ driveshafts. I'm really not sure why your Forester one's were too long. Try using Gen1 Liberty ones, they work.

You should be able to use standard Lib brake lines but if you want to get nice new ones just contact a brake place and get them to make some up for you. ABR brakes in Osborne park will do that, but that's just one place.

Speedo *should* be fairly simple thing to fix. Your Forester gearbox likely has an electronic sensor but if it's similar to my Outback gearbox you can just unscrew that, chuck it away, and screw your standard mechanical L series speedo cable in and it works fine.
Thanks HEAPS for this Andrew!!
I still have my Forry Radiator here with its twin thermos, Im hoping to either get the L framework modded to accept this forry one or get my current L Rad that already has the modded EJ pipes on it converted to TWO CORE.

Brake line wise, idealy I'd LOVE to get new brake plumbing installed at a brake shop but they quoted a fortune for it. So Im gunna save some very precious & dwindling $$$$'s by putting in some second hand L ones from a wreckers that will fit nice. Picking them up on SAT along with a Gen I Master Cyl & Brake Booster.

Driveshaftwise Im picking up some EJ Gen I or II front reconned gen Subaru drive shafts from a guy in Armadale who is offering them at $100 each, which sounds reasonable to me. Unless anyone in Perth has some spare Gen I or Gen II they want to get rid of....... :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

Speedowise - THANKS for that advice, I was stumped there! I hope this 3rd mech can suss it out OK. I have Dave (Subarino)'s old GPS system to use for a Speed readout, until I get it sorted if necessary.
El_Freddo wrote:Hey Karen, spewing!!!

For the radiator job - I got a 3 core copper/brass radiator for my L and I love it. It was from Aussie Desert Coolers at a cost of $450. If you're really stuck for someone try them out, they freight anywhere as far as I know. Bennie
Thanks for the help Bennie as always. I'll see how I go with Perth based options first, thanks though. :)
Subyroo wrote:I'd be a little bit hesitant to drive anywhere with cut & welded drive shafts, and that guy needs shafting with one of those shafts whilst it's still hot from his welding.

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
YES indeed....I am very concerned there too....if he hasnt dont them well enough....they could do some seious damage to my hubs or gearbox....he did them without checking with me too....I could have sold them complete and got some $ from them, cant now.....IF by some miracle they work fine....I will keep them as spares in case I brake one out bush somewhere.

Kaz
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:rolleyes:
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Subyroo
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Post by Subyroo » Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:25 am

L-Raiser wrote:YES indeed....I am very concerned there too....if he hasn't done them well enough....they could do some serious damage to my hubs or gearbox....he did them without checking with me too....I could have sold them complete and got some $ from them, cant now.....IF by some miracle they work fine....I will keep them as spares in case I brake one out bush somewhere.

Kaz
L-Raiser
:rolleyes:
Kaz I wouldn't even keep them as spares and I'd be letting the RTA or Machinery Inspector know in writing what this guy did to your car as that is not good practice let alone a safe one IMO.
Peter

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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:46 am

If done properly it's perfectly fine. The local CV joint place I go to does it from time to time for custom applications and I believe it's reasonably common. A guy at my work had to have a couple done for his Nissan Pulsar when he converted to a different gearbox from an import model, his motor is very high power and the shafts work great.

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vincentvega
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Post by vincentvega » Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:18 am

Are you sure they are cutting and shutting them??

The driveshaft shop near me will trim some length off a shaft and then re-machine the splines onto the shaft. No loss in strength that way
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brumbyrunner wrote:And just to clarify the real 4WD thing, Subarus are an unreal 4WD.

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L-Raiser
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Post by L-Raiser » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:52 am

vincentvega wrote:Are you sure they are cutting and shutting them??

The driveshaft shop near me will trim some length off a shaft and then re-machine the splines onto the shaft. No loss in strength that way
Yep....he even showed me the weld mark where he cut them approx midway between the inner shaft.
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Subyroo
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Post by Subyroo » Sat Dec 13, 2008 5:06 pm

vincentvega wrote:Are you sure they are cutting and shutting them??

The driveshaft shop near me will trim some length off a shaft and then re-machine the splines onto the shaft. No loss in strength that way
That would be a far better option in my book.

:D :D :D :D
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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Sat Dec 13, 2008 5:40 pm

vincentvega wrote:Are you sure they are cutting and shutting them??

The driveshaft shop near me will trim some length off a shaft and then re-machine the splines onto the shaft. No loss in strength that way
that would work....only if theyre not Varying thicknesses along the shaft.
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