The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

i have a EA82T (3 plug ecu) and i have a Microtech LT10. My dissy has the four wires coming out but the problem i am having is the computer has been set to read a crank angle and the cam angle from the dissy but i only have one pulse out. When the engine was fitted they bypassed the signal and had it wired to the dissy like a point set up.

Is my dassy wanked? or does the earlier one only send out the single pulse(crank angle) The Microtech came off a car that had the 4 plug ecu so are the dissys different?

I just need to know so that i can either get a later dissy or send this one and the ECU down to Microtech and get it reset. My cars off the road so the quickest option would be better but i am not willing to bodge it i want it all done right..

cheers..

steff.......................

Early 3 plug dizzys had the one pulse out for the coil and thats it the later model Dizzy is all you will need to make it work.

those four wires coming out of the three plug dizzy (the one with normal old style dizzy guts visible) connect a knock sensor and its control unit into the scheme of things.

Suby Wan Kenobi wrote:Early 3 plug dizzys had the one pulse out for the coil and thats it the later model Dizzy is all you will need to make it work.

thought as much, so anyone got a later dissy they want to sell me?

i am guessing they fit with no issues

steff............................

Dubcrazy wrote:thought as much, so anyone got a later dissy they want to sell me?

i am guessing they fit with no issues

steff............................

Hi steff...i answered your gearbox q,s on the buggy forum...
Dont worry about getting another dissy,your one will do
To make the micro tech see your dizzy you need to install a 1k pull up resister

the early dissy gives a sine wave..and the late dizzzy gives a digital square wave

The 1 k pull up resister will turn your sine wave into a readable signal.
12v to one side of the resister when ignition is on..and send the other side of the resister to the trigger side of the coil...and you WILL have a signal which will trigger your ecu..DONE

secondly...this is only the beginning of your ecu install....you will have to install a trigger disc to give you a pulse sinc so the ecu know where your crank is at...its a little complicated but you will get there...

to make an ea82t go hard...you only need the factory ecu and disconnect the over boost switch and the zero boost switch then connect a 200cc - 300cc holden injecter v6=200cc 5.7=300cc.. it really does not matter as long as its 200cc or 300cc or somewhere in between,and have the 7.5 psi overboost switch activate the injecter,it will go linear and that is exactly what you want.....walla...fit the extra injecter in the centre of your pod filter..and this will bring you up to around 140hp - 150hp..as long as your engine is volumetrically efficient..cheers

SCOOBIDOO wrote:have the 7.5 psi overboost switch activate the injecter,it will go linear and that is exactly what you want.....walla...fit the extra injecter in the centre of your pod filter..and this will bring you up to around 140hp - 150hp..as long as your engine is volumetrically efficient..cheers

Thats a little crude isnt it?

Air intake from boost threshhold to redline isnt linear, and neither is fuel requirements.

If you want extra fueling, use a power trasistor triggered by the factory injectors to power the auxilary injector with a duty cycle that is proportional to the rest.

Id also be a little weary of injecting fuel anywhere before the throttle plate, and definately wary of injecting it before the airfilter

Gannon, after my weak valve spring diagnosis by SCOOBIDOO, I'd give him credit for the above mod - sneaky!
CRUDE is old fashioned carburettors !!

i have to say Scoobidoo's idea seems a little scary but the advice i have had from him in the past has been very indepth and very helpfull so i would say this would be to.

Right now i am just intrested in gettign the ECU all hooked up and working, then when any bugs have been worked out i will start on extra power.The engine has been totaly rebuilt from top to bottom so its nice and strong. To be honest i am not chasing massive power as the set i have in my car it will become unusable. Before the rebuild it dyno'd at 112Bhp at the wheels and that was enough to be able to give VT clubsports (225kw) a scare over the standing quarter. I have used VL turbo injectors (260cc) insted of the standard subaru and along with the ECU i am fitting a 90psi rising rate mappassi fuel reg.

We are hoping for around the 150Bhp mark and untill i drive it i dont know if i want to go anymore. Before the rebuild it was a total arse to drive in the wet with the back trying to constently over take the front so we'll have to see how it goes now.

steff................

hey steff, what is this motor in ? With your user name sounds like it may be replacing Hitlers revenge type stuff ? What boost pressure was the engine using to get the 112 WHP?

Jonno

Suparoo wrote:Thats a little crude isnt it?

Air intake from boost threshhold to redline isnt linear, and neither is fuel requirements.

If you want extra fueling, use a power trasistor triggered by the factory injectors to power the auxilary injector with a duty cycle that is proportional to the rest.


Id also be a little weary of injecting fuel anywhere before the throttle plate, and definately wary of injecting it before the airfilter

Crude is something a women would say when you have a fat.....crude is what is required at 7000rpm

If you tigger the fuel supply for the extra injector from the factory ecu is not linear,so,you wont get want you want from the factory ecu injector trigger,be as weary as you want..then maybe i should be as sarcastic as you want ..not that i am..but metophorically....the amount of no-it-alls on forums exceeds their ability to make something work.
You want proportionally controlled injecter duty..and you will get a pathetic proportionally controlled power increase

anyone else who wants larger increase,s..go linear for your full throttle /cfm requirements
I have been hands on inhouse dyno improvements for 30 yrs...and i still dont know enough
There are 2 schools at work here..the theory..and the reality...
With respect Suparoo..i have watched you over the last 5 years, from some one asking q,s on ea 82t,s to some one who source,s all their info off USMB and quote,s the trends back here...i knew you when you knew little on these engine,s...but i also respect your highly organised ability to keep people informed on the forgotten ea82t...
you are meticulous and thorough in your analogy,s ...cheers to you...
ANYONE PLEASE COME BRING YOUR AFTERMARKET ECU FITTED STI WRX UP AGAINST MY EA82T and i WILL shame your sorry ass.......
This is what sucks about forums..constantly being challenged on proven knowledge...

steptoe wrote:hey steff, what is this motor in ? With your user name sounds like it may be replacing Hitlers revenge type stuff ? What boost pressure was the engine using to get the 112 WHP?

Jonno

Its sitting in the back of a Baja, highly cut down beetle with fiberglass panels. nothing to them hence the power to weight is fantastic! Running 9lb of boost to get that figure with a really good over all power curve..








steff...........

Nice clean and tidy little beast you got there. Looks as if it was built as a towing mule

SCOOBIDOO wrote:Crude is something a women would say when you have a fat.....crude is what is required at 7000rpm

By crude i was mainly referring to the injector in the pod filter

I didnt say that an extra injector doesn't work, i simply gave my opinion on ways it could be improved.

Un-intentionally, my fuelling idea was more suited to the 4 plug ecu,.. RPM + Air Flow + Fuel Map = Fuel Injected
I simply forgot you were takling about the 3 plug ecu,... RPM + Fuel Map = Fuel Injected (which is kinda irrelevant seeing Steff has a programable LT10 ecu)

SCOOBIDOO wrote:some one who source,s all their info off USMB and quote,s the trends back here

I wouldnt go as far as to say that.
Yes i read and relay information between the forums, but this is bad why?

If you want to discuss fuelling requirements, or flame me further, send me a PM

Sorry to have upset you


Gannon

SCOOBIDOO wrote: to make an ea82t go hard...you only need the factory ecu and disconnect the over boost switch and the zero boost switch then connect a 200cc - 300cc holden injecter v6=200cc 5.7=300cc.. it really does not matter as long as its 200cc or 300cc or somewhere in between,and have the 7.5 psi overboost switch activate the injecter,it will go linear and that is exactly what you want.....walla...fit the extra injecter in the centre of your pod filter..and this will bring you up to around 140hp - 150hp..as long as your engine is volumetrically efficient..cheers

Oh man that is hilarious!

You were joking weren't you?

I remember early efi stuff like ....spit..... SAAB had a cold start injector in a central point on the manifold. I suppose shoving the extra injector before the turbo may offer cooling in the turbo.

Yes but it also turns the inlet tract into a bomb if the engine back fires and ignites fuel upstream of the throttle .
You don't want to get caught on a public road with anything injecting raw petrol upstream of its throttle/s .
Cold start injectors are a bit crude and usually have no regulation , ie they are on or off and switched by a water temp sensing probe/relay .

You can do a bit with the std system provided you don't mind testing (properly) alterations to AFM and throttle switches (the open throttle one) - and larger injectors of course .
Actually I'm just starting to look into slightly larger electrically compatible (resistance value) hose tail injectors , I think the 3 plug MPFI-T system doesn't use an injector dropping resistor so the native injectors must be saturated (high resistance) ones .
A Nissan minded associate has offered me a set of 280Z Turbo injectors which are supposed to be ~ 265-280cc low resistance , US boards reckon these are an easy upgrade in EA82T's though they probably ment 4 plug ECU ones .
I think I still have a set of Nissan FJ20T injectors which I think are same as above though 370 odd cc flow rate . The closer to std you can use means the lesser the fibbs you have to tell to the factory computer so lesser compromises .
A little how ya goin but slightly larger squirters with slightly less rail pressure can help but spray patterns still need to be acceptable .
I stay well clear of rising rate regulators like the Malpasi , all factory systems use 1:1 regulators .

Your calls , cheers A .

discopotato03 wrote:Yes but it also turns the inlet tract into a bomb if the engine back fires and ignites fuel upstream of the throttle .
You don't want to get caught on a public road with anything injecting raw petrol upstream of its throttle/s .

So everything with a carburetter is dangerous in your mind....
full throttle supply in all carbs is upstream of the throttle plates

Maybe you could hook up with ben some time...and watch a sunset..

SCOOBIDOO wrote: Maybe you could hook up with ben some time...and watch a sunset..

That'd be nice, couple of beers, a beach and a couple of sweet subes...

discopotato03 wrote:Yes but it also turns the inlet tract into a bomb if the engine back fires and ignites fuel upstream of the throttle .

Which is sorta why I did not include an intercooler on my EA82T LPG unit. Already had one backfire due to excited driving on weak valve spring and the bonnet copped a thump from the underside when the turbo inlet pipe tried to go skywards. My gas guru took a few hits to his intercooled 351 LPG turbo before he learnt not to intercool draw through applications

Injecting with a pressure fed fuel injection nozzle .
Carburettors don't ordinarily move fuel with no airflow through them - the exception being the accelerator pump/jets .

A .