New generation fusible links.
Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:31 pm
About a year ago I had grief with coroded FL's in my L series , and two years before that in my 84 Brumby.
Someone suggested using the new generation of plastic box enclosed FL's (known as FFL's Female Fusible Links) as they just clip in place of originals. I bought some off a travelling auto elec guy only to find they are 32? Volt rated so an 80 A 32V would give different rating at 12V wouldn't it? 240 Amps?? Don't think I know where they are now anyway.
http://www.circuitprotection.ca/fuseology.html answers the question above. It is OK to use higher Volt rated fuse in lower Volt applications
Again, just today I felt a momentary ignition like baulk or cut out as I was cruising light load. Yet to check the replaced FL's for any corrosion or their integrity. Certainly do not want a repeat of last year as it caused a high voltage spike and fried many circuits under dash, behind dash and all light bulbs frazzled
Any time this happens in my car I get shakey, anyone elses car I feel quite fine
I need to visit an auto elec or supercheap for correct voltage and amps units to try. (EDIT 08APR2012 - SCA FL also rated at 32V ) Also considering a rewire of ignition supply, new wires connections and relays as a switchable back up just in case my 24 year old gives up ghost. Time to hoard tools and spare ignition module as another be prepared sort of thing, or update cars.
Handy link to Narva site fuselinks info
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/metal-manual
SORRY, this is manual fuse ciruit breaker - still gets you there , just look at fuse links female
.....
showthread.php?t=14769
is where it all began for me.
new question for the electricians out there
what does continuous Amp rating mean or refer
is that short for a 20A fuse has a 20A continuous Amp rating?
...............
so it looks like - correct me if I am wrong, don't blame me if I am wrong, just thinking out loud on the white board (or dry erase for the US readers)
BLACK FL genuine with 1.25mm is 24A continuous amp rated (can't find 24A plastics, 30A?)
RED FL genuine with 0.85mm is 18A contiuous amp rated (so ? 20A in plastic)
GREEN FL genuine with 0.50mm is 13A continuous amp rated ( not found 15A in plastics eithe
the subie colours are different to the Narva fuse wire codes if compared with cross sectional dimnsions
........................
narva web site under fuses > link > wires give the rating of wire colours and cross sectional dia.. I matched the 1.25mm to the little 2
HERE
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/fuse-link-wire
......................
From the FSM
0.5mm green, woven fabric insulation Fusible link should melt within 15 seconds at a current flow of 80 amperes
0.85mm red, woven fabric insulation blah, blah, blah 130 amperes
1.25mm black, woven fabric insulation 190amperes
Someone suggested using the new generation of plastic box enclosed FL's (known as FFL's Female Fusible Links) as they just clip in place of originals. I bought some off a travelling auto elec guy only to find they are 32? Volt rated so an 80 A 32V would give different rating at 12V wouldn't it? 240 Amps?? Don't think I know where they are now anyway.
http://www.circuitprotection.ca/fuseology.html answers the question above. It is OK to use higher Volt rated fuse in lower Volt applications
Again, just today I felt a momentary ignition like baulk or cut out as I was cruising light load. Yet to check the replaced FL's for any corrosion or their integrity. Certainly do not want a repeat of last year as it caused a high voltage spike and fried many circuits under dash, behind dash and all light bulbs frazzled
Any time this happens in my car I get shakey, anyone elses car I feel quite fine
I need to visit an auto elec or supercheap for correct voltage and amps units to try. (EDIT 08APR2012 - SCA FL also rated at 32V ) Also considering a rewire of ignition supply, new wires connections and relays as a switchable back up just in case my 24 year old gives up ghost. Time to hoard tools and spare ignition module as another be prepared sort of thing, or update cars.
Handy link to Narva site fuselinks info
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/metal-manual
SORRY, this is manual fuse ciruit breaker - still gets you there , just look at fuse links female
.....
showthread.php?t=14769
is where it all began for me.
new question for the electricians out there
what does continuous Amp rating mean or refer
is that short for a 20A fuse has a 20A continuous Amp rating?
...............
so it looks like - correct me if I am wrong, don't blame me if I am wrong, just thinking out loud on the white board (or dry erase for the US readers)
BLACK FL genuine with 1.25mm is 24A continuous amp rated (can't find 24A plastics, 30A?)
RED FL genuine with 0.85mm is 18A contiuous amp rated (so ? 20A in plastic)
GREEN FL genuine with 0.50mm is 13A continuous amp rated ( not found 15A in plastics eithe
the subie colours are different to the Narva fuse wire codes if compared with cross sectional dimnsions
........................
narva web site under fuses > link > wires give the rating of wire colours and cross sectional dia.. I matched the 1.25mm to the little 2
HERE
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/fuse-link-wire
......................
From the FSM
0.5mm green, woven fabric insulation Fusible link should melt within 15 seconds at a current flow of 80 amperes
0.85mm red, woven fabric insulation blah, blah, blah 130 amperes
1.25mm black, woven fabric insulation 190amperes