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El_Freddo wrote:Do the libertys use these fuses as well or is it only later models of other makes that seem to?

Cheers

Bennie

Just had a look through my pile of 1999 Forester parts and found this one which plugs straight into the L.


The earlier Lib and Impreza stuff I've looked at has had FLs with a clip on the side, which do not go into the L.

Dane.

Just pulled those clip lock ones from my Impreza loom and there is 2 sizes , smaller green ones are 30A, bigger red are 45A. Saved me trouble of testing their fit.

A little incoonsistency there on Fujis part

Anyone got a photo with these fuses in their FL box?

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Dane.

shit i wish i knew this years ago!!!!

my gen3 has one of this style im sure!

alex

dragging out an old thread ...now , somewhere in here , someone said the values of the fusible links of the plastic varirty pictured by Dane were the same, so if you have a black fabric covered old style - guess you'd need a black plastic box one ??

The values of the normal fuse of the fuse box fuse colours not match those of FL's as a 20A blade fuse is yellow, 15A is blue, 30A greeny blue.

The fuse sitting on top of Danes reservoir is a lightish blue and my same from SCA package is rated at 20A - and that 32V shows its head again. 30A in th plastic is pink according to TOONGA

Black blade fuse if you have seen them, are 1Amp , black in factory FL is the higher rated 1.25 mm square. Just wondering the rating of the lone yeller one is in Danes pic?

Gannon wrote:Breakthrough!!!!


I had a chat to an auto electrician and he said that simply match the colours.

So simply replace the Green, Red, Black and Blue fusible links with 20A lightish blue, 30A pink 40A Green, 50A Red, 80A Black and 100A Blue FLF or AFF style fuses and all should be sweet

Wonder if the above colour treatment helps stick values in my head ?

Yeah Bennie good to see inspiration has occurred from this thread

I've now got three green and one black "new age" blade fuses in my fusible link brown box. They're snug but they fit, the lid even closes over the top too - pretty stoked about that.

I can dig up the parts number for the black fuse if there's interest. I know it was a Narva brand unit I was stoked when I found the black one with female blades stocked at my local parts joint.

I don't know how they go though, I'm still putting the car back together!

Cheers

Bennie

The yellow one pictured is still a mystery as to its rating number

CRIPES!! Reading back through this I read conflicting stuff. On one habd Gannons auto elec says just do straight colour for colour replacement, the other hand Narva technical basically said replace like FL with like - not wanting to say the modern ones replace the old style.

It is OK for us to say they work fine - of course they are gonna work fine until they have to really work and die for us to protect our electronics - if we over do the rating unknowingly based on the auto elecs advice ......

Guess it will be a suck it and see - never heard of any FL's blowing as such, just corrode after 20 odd years

We are not the only ones thinking too hard on these buggers

this link has a chart for all the colours and their ratings

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...rcuit-breakers

the thread almost reads just like this one

We are not the only ones thinking too hard on these buggers

this link has a chart for all the colours and their ratings

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/show ... t-breakers

the thread almost reads just like this one

steptoe wrote:this link has a chart for all the colours and their ratings

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/show ... t-breakers

Good find Steptoe! This is the said chart, clearly stolen from the linked thread ^



That should clear it up for everyone and it should also back up what Gannon's auto elec was saying about colour matching

Cheers

Bennie

You are gonna hate this, but on a recent visit to the auto lec, he showed me a Narva book and the colours dont always match up. There are even differences between the colours and ratings in different Narva fuses. He also added that a fusible link has a different fusing characteristic to normal fuse, and isnt exactly like a slow blow fuse either.

The only way to work out the size of a replacement fuse is to measure the size of the smallest cable it supplies, and work out the maximum rated current its designed to handle. I will be doing this during the week for the WRX engine I am putting in a Brumby, and I have to choose suitable fuses for the job

Thought as much, explains the caution Narva techs had. I also have in my hand some FL's - maybe they are just fuses from Imprezza fuse box

30A is green, 45A is red !! Normal blade fuse for 30A is greenish while red is 10A

So..if you get the idea in here no blame us if sumptin' goes phzzzt

If that's the case, how do newer vehicles do it as they all seem to use these fuses.

I'm hoping that it'll blow when it needs to/should, I don't care about a slow burn out, I'd rather have the car stop to find a blown fuse rather than be wondering what the problem is... only to find a charred fusible link that is much harder to find a replacement for.

Cheers

Bennie

If I can work out the sizes of the wires that feed from the FL box, I'll post up what fuses should go where

I've got one here I can measure before it goes in the mail

The FSM's have some good info. The FL's themselves described as::

0.5mm to the little 2 - FL should melt within 15 seconds at a current flow of 80A,
the 0.85mm 15 seconds at 130A and,is the red one
the 1.25mm in 15 seconds at 190A this'd be the black one

if you askd Narva catalogue for these type specs of their plastic doovers ...

and the wires coming from a LHD vehicle FL box described as:
0.5 G ..... 2 R (>> guessing 2mm sq cable rating for red FL)
0.85R ..... 3 BW (>>guessing this is 3mm)

FSM also has info like:

1.25mm nominal sectional area of cable has 16 strans, strand diamter of 0.32, outside dia of finished wire 2.7 (2.5 ) mmand allowable curent at 40C 21 A
0.5 G ...... 2 WB (and back to 2.0mm cable)
1.25 B......5W which has one fat white cable on mine so mean 5mm core white cable ?

From what I have worked out the FL's box should look like this....

Green FL = 2.0mm cable = 28A rating = Light Blue 20A fuse
Red FL = 3.0mm cable = 38A rating = Pink 30A fuse
Black FL = 5.0mm cable = 51A rating = Green 40A fuse

But I have also seen red marked as 50A and green as both 30A and 40A so I will go to the auto lec tomorrow and order the required ones for a FL box and install them and post a photo.

But - you need an FL box to do all that first don't you ! It is packed and sits just at front door ....

Havent been back to the auto lecs, but I found a page on Bussmann fuses and they call the type we are after FLF-S

Ive edited the colours in the above post to reflect protecting the cables by their maximum current rating, and should give a safety margin, but.....

If I convert the blowing times that Jon gave above, to the graph supplied with the FLF fuses its quite different.

Black FLF is rated at 80A, and with a fault of 190A will blow in about 5 sec.
Red FLF rated at 50A, with a fault of 130A will blow in about 2 sec.
Green FLF rated at 40A, with a fault of 80A will blow in about 2 sec.

So maybe we can substitute colour for colour?

It also stands to reason that our 65A alternators are protected by the 1.25 FL, which if we go by the current rating of the white wire supplying it, is about 51A, but if we go by the fusing time of the factory FL, it can take an 80A FLF