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You know, when ya think about things 'they' wouldn't make fusible links like the FFL boxes we are talking about, wouldn't make them so they actually fitted the FL boxes, and not just one in and the wire FL's, the whole lot fit in just ever so neatly and colour match as well.

We have found that different shaped and sized FL boxes available, or in use in EJ models etc are not the same colour for same rating. Surely not just a fluke ......shame no one has found those that fit are just a superceded version

Any questions now purp ??

If Ok with you guys - I should put some of this up on the wiki page ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

steptoe wrote:Any questions now purp ??

I'll let you know when my brain recovers from reading through this thread

If only we could get to the nitty gritty detail of the wires used in cars running exactly the same rated FFL's we want to use. Need to ID the cars that use them, and hope to find the detail same as that Subaru included in their manuals !

Because, it looks like to use black for black could see those using an 80A rated whre Gannons calcs come out as to use the green 40A !

Gannon wrote:Just had a brainwave (which means that my previous information may be incorrect)

I did some Google-ing and discovered that the fusible link must be 4 'gauges' smaller than the cable it is protecting

So a 0.5mm2 FL is 20 gauge. So the wire it protects is 16 gauge or 1.3mm2 or more likely 1.25mm2 which requires a 15A fuse
Next one, 0.85mm2 FL is 18g. So the wire it protects is 14 gauge or 2.0mm2 which requires a 25A fuse
The next one, 1.25mm2 FL is 16g. So the wire it protects is 12 gauge or 3.0mm2 which requires a 40A fuse
The last one, 2.0mm2 FL is 12g. So the wire it protects is 8.0mm2 which requires a 50A fuse

Requires more inforation

read this and what one part says is that the fuse needs to be 4 gauges smaller. Does this mean the old gauge standard number increases as the thickness decrease ??

Ah wiki, worth more money aren't they !!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_gauge - see it explained and I am likely to remember it better:)

I probably could have explained that better.
FL size is 4 gauges smaller wire diameter, meaning 4 steps higher in gauge number.

As I havent yet finished the RX, I havent converted mine to new style push ins. But before I do I plan on testing the full load current of each circuit

and that will be by using a lower rated FL first, then load up each circuit to make sure it don't bust ?

I'll just pull the FL out and bridge the connection with my ammeter and measure the current, the decision will then be made on what size to choose

Gannon wrote:I'll just pull the FL out and bridge the connection with my ammeter and measure the current, the decision will then be made on what size to choose

I'll be keen to know what these are as I've colour matched the fuses to the fusible links - something that was discussed earlier from memory!

Cheers

Bennie

Am just in here looking, reading until muy head is about to spin, until I see a rule of thumb appearing - we know the blacks in FFL plastics are rated at 80A - Gannons formula explained somewhere above arrives at a FFL plastic rated at half that to go in its place.

So I am about to try green factory FLs - look at green FFL's - see they are rated at 40A, now halve that and go for whatever colour 20A is and shove a plastic FFL in its place - light blue I think it was said.

Am looking for a momentary ignition cut out that has occured twice now - found a battery lead loose- ish. Hoping that was it. The FL's look good in factory finish

The new gens are in the GLTA

black genuine so black FFL , value is 80A, using above formiula , halving that 80 to 40A , so that's a green one
green genuine, so green FFL is 40a, using 20A light blue FFL, which at SCA the label still claims them to be white
Been OK so far

Yellow FFLs are 60A

steptoe wrote:black genuine so black FFL , value is 80A, using above formiula , halving that 80 to 40A , so that's a green one
green genuine, so green FFL is 40a, using 20A light blue FFL, which at SCA the label still claims them to be white
Been OK so far

Good to know mate. I might have to go back and change mine over as I'm sure I changed mine before the above formula was posted - then missed that post.

I'm sure I've matched the same amperage rating to the fusible links with the new units, which would mean my loom is not protected as I'm running twice the fuse size I should be

Cheers

Bennie

I've joined the fusible link failing crew and found this very informative thread.

Can one of you guys spell out clear and simple (for the less technically minded) what colour plastic FLs I can swap out the wire ones for?

Am I correct in following that the black one should be swapped with light blue (20A) and the green ones should find a 10-12A replacement?

thanks

my only qualification is with the above experience in my beast that ran 100W driving lights, three elec fans on the radiator, heater fan, usual lights etc, just no stereo, radio comms at all - was all good until I stripped the car.

So, next time I go to do same, it won't be the like for like colour. It will be to look at what colour fabric covered was there from factory eg yellow fabric, look at value of same colour in new gen FFL's - yellow plastic is 60A , and use a new gen of half that value - a 30 A, whatever colour that turns out to be.

Then test your application, runs everything electrical at its max load all at same time - see if anything blows ...

Sounds reasonable - my problems seem to be occurring after I've been using the spotties (100W also) for a while, and when the RAA bloke was playing with it last night he said the wire was getting pretty warm. My wire didn't 'blow' per se, but the connector on one side was all tarnished and couldn't make connection.

My voltmeter (in-dash) went up to 17V at the time of my issues then after I turned off the car it wouldn't start again - does that sound like a farked voltage reg in the alternator or just the FL misbehaving?

reckon spike or urge might be higher than 17V. My latest alt did that, so swapped in yet another used and its readout is now about the 14 plus minus a few points. 17 cant be good for battery long term surely ?

I ran my spotties on my L series directly off the alternator B+ post so none of the current was running through the fusable links and I had the highest possible voltage

bumping this post to see if it shows up in the search engine.

TOONGA

Gannon wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:39 pm

I ran my spotties on my L series directly off the alternator B+ post so none of the current was running through the fusable links and I had the highest possible voltage

I did a similar thing with the 2 x 100w aircraft landing lights that I had on a 1975 LH Torana G-PAK when I was working at an airport. I had a ready made supply as one of the Airline LAME's would keep me supplied.
I also had to upgrade the alternator at the same time.

TOONGA wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:34 am

bumping this post to see if it shows up in the search engine.

It will now that there's been new posts since the forum renewal. I have noticed that some posts are now cropping up in the google search when they haven't been posted in since the move.

I'm still finding broken links that I'm slowly going through and sorting out in my own threads/posts, but this will take quite a bit of time to sort out!

Cheers

Bennie