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Suparoo wrote:It senses engine rotation from the coil pulses and turns the fuel pump on. If the engine stops, so does the fuel pump.

When the ignition switch is turned to on, it comes on for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system

Ah yes yes
Very good safety feature in event of crash
Not a feature I would like to lose either

I looks to be the same unit used in L series too, so maybe you could pick one up from the wreckers. Actually i might have one.

I'll report back if i find it

Not trying to reduce new stocks of genuine components but....peelinstruments.com.au have some very affordable devices that do just that for LPG safety switches, in fact there are many varieties of these safety switches for LPG that run from the coil and give a few seconds prime power on initial power up then only when engine has started does it give constant power to gas locks. Wonder if you are looking too hard, too complex on this (that's my trick ) ....need to test the unit, it only stops fuel pump power doesn't it? not kill ignition at all ?

Not to sure how this works but no fuel pump not even 2 second prime on key on and no spark when cranking .

but cranks strongly yeah?

So, what about think you were going to start this without the keys sort of thing....? Battery POS+ directly to the coil POS+ (i think, check this) use a fuse in between for safety, chuck some fuel down the carby throat, replace air filter for fire safety ?.....no , you have power at the coil don't you ?.....

time to directly power your fuel pump ?? I use a secondary battery for diagnostic stuff like this, a sealed lead acid alarm battery - makes it easier to power directly....

Have power at coil ,fuel pump runs with direct power have tried aerostart in carby definitely no spark .Have rung 10 wreckers in WA including 3 so called subi specialist results no brumbies or l series in stock . So now resigned to wait for it to arrive from Japan. Local mech has advised sensor failure will cause all these problems.

warrenel4 wrote:I can get the fuel pump to run with a jumper across the plug on the sensor and yes reconnected coil very carefully when changed and double checked. From smell emanating from rev unit subi dealer said it cactus .

According to my workshop manual drawing, you should also be able to get spark from the ignition system if you jumper the appropriate terminals.

I am satisfied once I get new rev unit car will run . Car is driven By daughter so not to comfortable about trying to bypass sensor after understanding a bit more what it does . Thanks all for suggestions .

littlewhiteute wrote:According to my workshop manual drawing, you should also be able to get spark from the ignition system if you jumper the appropriate terminals.

I meant the above as a test only, to prove the rest of the car is ok, double proves a faulty part and the rest of the vehicle eliminating any doubt.

http://www.peelinstruments.com.au/page16.html

The CP30 is only about $60 and does same thing. Any good auto elec should be able to retrofit it in place of your fried smelly one.

Update on Brumby . Has been taken to autosparky diagnosis : ignition module in dizzy and rev sensor both were faulty. He has replaced both , it is now running but feels like on 3 cylinders so now at mechanic to find what this problem is.....

13 years later. Doing a google. Found this post on this forum.

To bypass the fuel/rev module, sits way up under dash, little black box : (six pinned plug)

Short out from single BLACK TO Black & White (fuel pump). Priming all time when ignition is on)
Short out from Two blues to single blue (choke)

Make up two wires with 'male spade to male spade'. Plug these into the plug that goes into the module.
Job done.

yellow : coil pickup
2x blacks : earth
black : ignition / +ve.
black/white : fuel pump
two blues : (not sure. +ve?)
blue : choke.

Doesn’t matter how old the thread is when you’re adding valuable information like that Bushy!

Cheers

Bennie