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So I think I have fried my IAC. EJ22 stock in BD6 Liberty throwing code 21 Coolant Temperature Sender (CTS) for the ECU and 24 "Air Control Valve" which I assume is the IAC.

I have tested the CTS out of the vehicle, it reads faulty. Fans are on all the time. Which looks correct with the bad ohms reading the sensor is giving. Tridon TCS1080 ($24) was faulty right out of the packet. Ohms reading also incorrect according to Haynes manual. Fans never came on.

But how do I test the IAC? I plan to get used from wrecker. But want to be able to confirm first on mine and then check at the wrecker. I cannot find anything specific in Haynes or any other manual I have.

So car (with these codes showing) starts but reluctantly, then runs on 2/3 cylinders. After a good gentle rev and a min or two she runs smooth enough on her own.

I need to get this sorted ASAP as
It's the wife's daily driver

This may help out?

showthread.php?t=5267&page=1

this section of the 92 liberty FSM deals with trouble shooting the IAC on page 59 (in the fsm it is called BY-PASS AIR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE)

(it will be the same for your model)

https://www.rapidshare.com/files/147158 ... Turbo_.pdf

The easiest way to fix the IAC is to remove the old one and find a working second hand or new one. I just had the same problem with my liberty motor in Jetcar.

If you clean it or attempt to clean it don't remove the solenoid from the top as this will change the idle setting.(even if you put it back to where you think it was)

TOONGA

Thanks Toonga, thats what I was looking for. Knew it was there somewhere. I have all those files on my PC but didnt look at that one hehehe. Im off to the wrecker Sat morn.

Cheers RSR 555 - I'll be looking at that relay too. Certainly sounds like the issues Im having. I'll replace the two sensors as I can test if they are working and then do the relay trick too if its still failing.

maybe a little late

but with the idle valve if you mark the position of it and undo the screws on either side
with the engine running twist the top of the valve the engine should idle up or down depending on which way it was twisted and return to its normal idle rpm

line the solenoid top back up with your marks and re tighten the screws (never had a problem with the ecu not liking if this has been moved but theirs a first time for everything)

if it just revs up and down as you turn it could be a few things
its stuck and needs a clean
the coil in the head is burnt out
or the wiring from the ecu is damaged

cheers mat

Ok so the issues continue. Car is running but very difficult to start however runs normalish when warm. The car has a suspected cracked head. Air is getting into the coolant system. Can only assume from the exhaust. HG seems fine, and has been running this way for a few months now. Overheats 100m down the road from stone cold (I kid u not). However with the thermostat out there is not problems. Not using water or oil, and no mixing of the two.

So that's what's happening. I think I have the ignition relay issue. Tested with a n unknown one, no change. Replaced the IAC with a wreck one, that one seems better. So...I changed the ignition relay with the twin one form Talasas thread. But it appears my starter is now dead. Had been driving the car in limp mode awaiting these relays. Battery seemed it was dying as the cranking was getting weaker and weaker each time I started the car. Battery is brand new (MRV48). However it did not appear dead at all. Didn't think much of this. Assumed it was battery issue.

Today I did the relay install, attempt to start, nothing. No click dead as a door nail.

Tested the spare L series starter with battery and jumper leads, works. Did the same with the Lib one. Started once, then dead. But I can feel the solenoid attempting or energising. Leave it for 1 beer. Same again, cranks then dead. So pulls the starter apart. Below is a pic of both the brushes and the sticker.

So Im hoping someone can tell me:

a) are the brushed stuffed? They look it to me, but not exp with brushes.
b) are they replaceable, a search says yes, but from where?
c) ball park cost? Car will be scrapped in under 12 months, need to avoid spending unnecessarily.





I'm hoping this will solve all my recent issues with starting and idling when cold.

Part sourced. Subaru part number 23379AA000 $ 40.50 ish.
I picked it up at a local auto electrical for $25, price was a bonus Im just glad he happened to have it in stock!

Good score

So that will fix your starting probs, let us know how the rest goes...

YAY Effin blooody YAY! She started and purred like a baby. Then coughed a few times when the old fuel hit her and idled a bit lumpy but on all 4 pots. Few stabs of the throttle confirmed the IAC valve is working correctly (previously a stab would cause a stall).

So now I'm left with an overheating problem thats not an issue unless the thermostat goes back in (think I'll leave it out...). Not sure yet weather its worth fixing, see how things go in the coming months. Plans have a way of changing...

So just to wrap up this thread. My initial issue appears to have been the ignition relay intermittently playing up, this gave error codes 21 and 24 (ECU temp sender and IAC Valve). 21 was related to the ignition relay, 24 I may have fried mine accidentally, starting the engine (or attempting to, cant remember) without the ground cable installed, woops my bad. Picked up a used wrecker one for $45, but it too was still not functioning correctly (and continued to give code 24) due to the ignition relay issue I guess. I also managed to fry my original Temp sender unit testing by putting 12v through it when it should only see 5v from the ECU. (pays to read the manual first). Again one sourced from the wrecker ($10?). So at this point I was getting rather frustrated and started looking deeper and thats when I found Talasas's thread on the ignition relay. Picked up a used one at the wrecker ($10?) but it didn't improve anything. Ordered the Bosch relays (took about 4 weeks to get them, thats another story), finally got them a few days ago. Did the relay mod, dead, no click no nothing, just the dash lights dimming as the key hits the "start". Turned out my starter brushes were cactus, managed to get a replacement ($25) the next day (nice when things just work out). Installed the starter motor again, started first go. BUT it started on the wrecker ignition relay. Have not yet tested my original one or the Talasas's mod one yet. Why did I do that, no idea. And why didn't it work the first time, also no idea. Can only assume its playing up too, but has been fine the last two starts, time will tell.