MY & L Series Turn Indicator Fix ...
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
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I'd be using some flat bar - this is how I did mine. If you get the right angle stuff you can't bend it as it's a milled piece of metal, plus it cost about 4 times the price of the flat bar! The flat bar is much easier to work with, I've got loads of it for future projects, just need to find it!
Cheers
Bennie
Cheers
Bennie
- Bantum
- General Member
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- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
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Brass stock ...
Any good Hobby store with racks of metal / plastic should have suitable brass flat stock ( Toy World comes to mind ) ...
Failing that, go online & search in your area for Hobby stores. The best to checkout are ones that do aircraft, as they usually stock tubes etc. for wings 'n things ...
Hope that helps ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
Failing that, go online & search in your area for Hobby stores. The best to checkout are ones that do aircraft, as they usually stock tubes etc. for wings 'n things ...
Hope that helps ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
- El_Freddo
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Local hobby store. Talk to the dude and find out what can be bent and what can't. It shouldn't be anymore than $10 (expensive end) - they might even have a small cut off out back if they do repair or custom work - askBuddyboy wrote:El_Freddo, can you remember where you got it from?
Dunno about Toy World, but any hobby (especially with RC gear) store worth their weight will have the brassBantum wrote:Any good Hobby store with racks of metal / plastic should have suitable brass flat stock ( Toy World comes to mind ) ...
Cheers
Bennie
I have used the brass pins out of a 240 volt electrical plug. They appear to be the right width and not too hard to bend into the required angle. Just a matter of cutting them to the right length. Used the soldering iron method to attach to the plastic. Have not installed them as yet, but will let you know if they work OK.
Regards Buddyboy
Regards Buddyboy
Regards Buddyboy.
"Subaru, when only the best will do".
"Subaru, when only the best will do".
- Bantum
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Uploaded ...
Ok ...
Well its finally here in full technicolour - MY & L Series Turn Fix ...
You're welcome to check it out & I hope that it helps in the quest to fix those wrascally indicators ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
Well its finally here in full technicolour - MY & L Series Turn Fix ...
You're welcome to check it out & I hope that it helps in the quest to fix those wrascally indicators ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
Brass Pin Method
Well, finally got around to fitting the the Indicator Spigot, or whatever it is called, using the brass pins off an electrical 3 pin plug. It is working fine and has been for a couple of weeks. With everyone seeming to have leads from mobile phone chargers, old computer screens, computers and household appliances laying around, this could be a cheaper and more convenient way of sourcing the brass required.
Regards Buddyboy.
"Subaru, when only the best will do".
"Subaru, when only the best will do".
- Bantum
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Update ...
Well with the advent of 3D printing it had to be done :
More details to be found here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1112915
So now you have no excuses for not fixing it ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
More details to be found here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1112915
So now you have no excuses for not fixing it ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
I am just wondering, I cant tell from photos and I don't have my steering wheel off at the moment but is there a reason the indicator cancelling spigot (or whatever it is called) cant be set up vertically in a milling machine and a hole drilled straight down through both faces where the existing cancellation lugs are located, ?
If this was possible, the piece of round bar could be pushed in from the end of the spigot and be located/held at each end via the holes that have been drilled. Glue could still be used to hold it in there but the round bar would be less inclined to fall out.
If it was possible to drill the holes, I imagine you would have to cut out all of each of the old spigot ridges first but this is easy enough.
I just don't know if there is room enough to get a drill bit in from the end of the spigot as the raised face of the spigot may not be big enough in diameter.
Just a thought.
If this was possible, the piece of round bar could be pushed in from the end of the spigot and be located/held at each end via the holes that have been drilled. Glue could still be used to hold it in there but the round bar would be less inclined to fall out.
If it was possible to drill the holes, I imagine you would have to cut out all of each of the old spigot ridges first but this is easy enough.
I just don't know if there is room enough to get a drill bit in from the end of the spigot as the raised face of the spigot may not be big enough in diameter.
Just a thought.
- Bantum
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Nope, I wouldn't bother with drilling - it needs to be a certain angle to ensure contact with striker :
There are a couple of options now that you could easily use any one of them. If you're worried about it falling out, make it slightly longer by 2-3mm & melt a bit of the top & bottom lip by pressing the hot end of angle in to cover it ... ( P.S. - mine hasn't fallen out yet )
I will take some more pictures when I get round to installing the 3D printed one for my Brumby ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
There are a couple of options now that you could easily use any one of them. If you're worried about it falling out, make it slightly longer by 2-3mm & melt a bit of the top & bottom lip by pressing the hot end of angle in to cover it ... ( P.S. - mine hasn't fallen out yet )
I will take some more pictures when I get round to installing the 3D printed one for my Brumby ...
Cheers, Bantum ...