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Thanks auster,

I will post images up in the sequence ...

Good to see it works either way ...

Cheers, bantum ...

auster wrote:http://www.ausubaru.com.au/images/attach/jpg.gif. Bantum's pic was a bit out of focus.


attachment.php?attachmentid=4391&d=1394695103

Auster - with links to attached images use the bb code for images -

The first link is not an image - it's something that doesn't come up as an image...

Try it next time

Cheers

Bennie

Can anyone tell me the parts name for the "Plastic Thingy"?

here the other image

Close as I can get without a part catalogue is a : 'Turn Signal Return Spigot'

Any futher advances ? - An actual Part No. would be great ( aka : Frog ? )

Add : found this for an entire NOS unit ...





Part No: 78311230 from here : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-Suba ... 19f07f872c

Cheers, Bantum ...

Thanks for the info Bantum, trying to source the Brass Angle here on the Gold Coast, closest I can find so far is up in Brisbane.
Regards Buddyboy.

That ebay seller has had that indicator stalk assembly listed for months now, I keep coming so close to buying it but $300 is alot to fork out...waiting for mister fisterbottom to snap it up soon as he sees this

Buddyboy that brass angle is used in model building so you should be able to find it in model shops that sell balsa wood and glue, bits and pieces like that.

Nice guide. Although I wonder if the stock plastic part is available new? They do seem to last a good 30odd years

Bantum wrote:Close as I can get without a part catalogue is a : 'Turn Signal Return Spigot'

Any futher advances ? - An actual Part No. would be great ( aka : Frog ? )
Cheers, Bantum ...

I think you will find you cannot (or could not) actually buy the plastic part separately. It is the whole combo switch or nothing, so there will be no part number.

I prefer the early Gen 1's as they did not use the plastic piece, rather they have two metal roll pins located at 12:00 and 6:00 O'Clock position on the back of the steering wheel.

I knew a plastic welder who designed his own tool specifically for repairing that part, was quite profitable during the '80s and '90s for him! Looks like he has now retired.

Yep, I had my eye on that as well - never seen a part number for the single item either ...

If someone does end up grabbing it - they should help us a copy the relevant bits so we can 3D print new ones ...

Add : You could just redo the plastic bit via adding more melted plastic, but you would only end up back in same situation when it's worn out again ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

I'd be using some flat bar - this is how I did mine. If you get the right angle stuff you can't bend it as it's a milled piece of metal, plus it cost about 4 times the price of the flat bar! The flat bar is much easier to work with, I've got loads of it for future projects, just need to find it!

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo, can you remember where you got it from?
Regards
Buddyboy

Any good Hobby store with racks of metal / plastic should have suitable brass flat stock ( Toy World comes to mind ) ...

Failing that, go online & search in your area for Hobby stores. The best to checkout are ones that do aircraft, as they usually stock tubes etc. for wings 'n things ...

Hope that helps ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Buddyboy wrote:El_Freddo, can you remember where you got it from?

Local hobby store. Talk to the dude and find out what can be bent and what can't. It shouldn't be anymore than $10 (expensive end) - they might even have a small cut off out back if they do repair or custom work - ask

Bantum wrote:Any good Hobby store with racks of metal / plastic should have suitable brass flat stock ( Toy World comes to mind ) ...

Dunno about Toy World, but any hobby (especially with RC gear) store worth their weight will have the brass

Cheers

Bennie

Ahrg - Sorry that was meant to be 'Mr Toys' ( you know the one in the City ) ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

I have used the brass pins out of a 240 volt electrical plug. They appear to be the right width and not too hard to bend into the required angle. Just a matter of cutting them to the right length. Used the soldering iron method to attach to the plastic. Have not installed them as yet, but will let you know if they work OK.
Regards Buddyboy

Ok ...

Well its finally here in full technicolour - MY & L Series Turn Fix ...



You're welcome to check it out & I hope that it helps in the quest to fix those wrascally indicators ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Well, finally got around to fitting the the Indicator Spigot, or whatever it is called, using the brass pins off an electrical 3 pin plug. It is working fine and has been for a couple of weeks. With everyone seeming to have leads from mobile phone chargers, old computer screens, computers and household appliances laying around, this could be a cheaper and more convenient way of sourcing the brass required.

Well with the advent of 3D printing it had to be done :



More details to be found here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1112915

So now you have no excuses for not fixing it ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

I am just wondering, I cant tell from photos and I don't have my steering wheel off at the moment but is there a reason the indicator cancelling spigot (or whatever it is called) cant be set up vertically in a milling machine and a hole drilled straight down through both faces where the existing cancellation lugs are located, ?
If this was possible, the piece of round bar could be pushed in from the end of the spigot and be located/held at each end via the holes that have been drilled. Glue could still be used to hold it in there but the round bar would be less inclined to fall out.
If it was possible to drill the holes, I imagine you would have to cut out all of each of the old spigot ridges first but this is easy enough.
I just don't know if there is room enough to get a drill bit in from the end of the spigot as the raised face of the spigot may not be big enough in diameter.
Just a thought.