Adding a starter relay ......
- steptoe
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Adding a starter relay ......
Think it is time I try this ...
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/relay_starter.htm
to see if my starting issues resolve in my gLtm5
Before I found this I was wondering what Amperage relay - looks like a 30A will do in a VW anyway.
I recall once trying to hook up - directly at starter on my EA81 and it either did not work or fix my problem. May have been a bad battery connection then, after.
Had starting issues last week, culminating in a kill switch accidental activation , found loose battery terminal clamp down bolt, then today found if rad fan manual switch on, click, click, switch rad fan man off and starts .....
about to search in here for similar.....
here's one (complete with some narky, narky )
showthread.php?t=9557&highlight=starter+relay
and another...
with this guy suggesting take power from the starter motors 12V pos connection rather than run a wire from the battery
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... hp?t=64285
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/relay_starter.htm
to see if my starting issues resolve in my gLtm5
Before I found this I was wondering what Amperage relay - looks like a 30A will do in a VW anyway.
I recall once trying to hook up - directly at starter on my EA81 and it either did not work or fix my problem. May have been a bad battery connection then, after.
Had starting issues last week, culminating in a kill switch accidental activation , found loose battery terminal clamp down bolt, then today found if rad fan manual switch on, click, click, switch rad fan man off and starts .....
about to search in here for similar.....
here's one (complete with some narky, narky )
showthread.php?t=9557&highlight=starter+relay
and another...
with this guy suggesting take power from the starter motors 12V pos connection rather than run a wire from the battery
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... hp?t=64285
- mud_king91
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- Location: edwardstown SA
- steptoe
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- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
thought as much, done 'em before a long time ago, last one for me did not work, due to sumptin' else no doubt.
Went off and got fuse holding relay, started to tinker and found the hard plastic cased female spade terminal quite loose on the starters solenoid ?? Being hard plastic makes it impossible to tighten its grip so it's likely gonna be replaced and a relay for good measure to save future disappointment (me hopes)
Went off and got fuse holding relay, started to tinker and found the hard plastic cased female spade terminal quite loose on the starters solenoid ?? Being hard plastic makes it impossible to tighten its grip so it's likely gonna be replaced and a relay for good measure to save future disappointment (me hopes)
- mud_king91
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- Bantum
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Options ...
Confirming the best solution is to take power directly from starter cable ( use post mount on the starter itself ) - to relay, then back to solenoid. Use suitably rated wire ...
Locate relay as close as possible to starter - the shorter the lead wire is, the better. I've mounted mine just under the tyre carrier. The other side of circuit ( the one that you are bypassing ) goes to ground.
Another consideration is your Earth - to ensure there is a completed electrical cicruit, make sure the ground / earth wiring is the same capacity / guage as your mains and is well secured.
Notes : The above is a Draft layout only - I may have the numbers wrong on Relay + also have not shown a Fuse ... P.S. - Some of you may have also noted that there is an existing ground wire to the gearbox, make sure this is still in good working order, if not - it might pay to upgrade it alltogether ...
I can also add this a good option if you are using an imobiliser, by linking it with the control module ...
Sorry I don't have any picture's of this ...
Cheers, Bantum.
Locate relay as close as possible to starter - the shorter the lead wire is, the better. I've mounted mine just under the tyre carrier. The other side of circuit ( the one that you are bypassing ) goes to ground.
Another consideration is your Earth - to ensure there is a completed electrical cicruit, make sure the ground / earth wiring is the same capacity / guage as your mains and is well secured.
Notes : The above is a Draft layout only - I may have the numbers wrong on Relay + also have not shown a Fuse ... P.S. - Some of you may have also noted that there is an existing ground wire to the gearbox, make sure this is still in good working order, if not - it might pay to upgrade it alltogether ...
I can also add this a good option if you are using an imobiliser, by linking it with the control module ...
Sorry I don't have any picture's of this ...
Cheers, Bantum.
- steptoe
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Well, after poking through the hard casing of the female spade terminal in hope to increase clamping and tools,wire and relay on board in case - nothing amiss today.
Found an old L loom in the shed to flog the wire labeled "to starter solenoid" some nice red power wire, and a decnet earth lead with loop already on it, care of Fuji
Found an old L loom in the shed to flog the wire labeled "to starter solenoid" some nice red power wire, and a decnet earth lead with loop already on it, care of Fuji
Decent DECnet
DECnet??? Wow, a networked Soobie, must have been state of the art back in the day, but things really do need upgrading...see here.steptoe wrote:...and a decnet earth lead ...
Ohhh, you mean decent... Let's get down to earth here, it's just another descent into poor puns...
"Hanging is too good for a man who makes puns; he should be drawn and quoted." ~Fred Allen
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel
- steptoe
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, it is the finger next to the little finger, longer than the one next to the thumb - meaning according to Dr Karl, I am more fertile ?? called a typographical error I believe.
There is no comms in this Sube - no radio, no stez, no ipod, no ipad, no speakers - makes for a little bit lighter, little bit faster and less reason for some little Cnet to break in
There is no comms in this Sube - no radio, no stez, no ipod, no ipad, no speakers - makes for a little bit lighter, little bit faster and less reason for some little Cnet to break in
- steptoe
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Update: Finally fitted a 30A fused relay up, one with fuse mounted at front of relay from Jaycar, got power for terminal 30 at back of starter solenoid, power for terminal 86 from the wire female spade normally at starter solenoid, earth for terminal 85 went directly to an earthing point on the efi manifold and used an old L Series wiring looms starter solenoid wire from terminal 87 to the starter solenoid - retaining correct wire colour and trace
Since fitting three weeks or so ago - not one start symptom
Considered fixed, and not wired directly to battery terminal !!
Since fitting three weeks or so ago - not one start symptom
Considered fixed, and not wired directly to battery terminal !!
- Bantum
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Got any pic's for us ?
P.S. - I've updated the Wiring Diagam for those wanting to know how to do it ...
Note : There are some errors with it & I would like to re-do it at some stage with corrections ...
Cheers, Bantum.
P.S. - I've updated the Wiring Diagam for those wanting to know how to do it ...
Note : There are some errors with it & I would like to re-do it at some stage with corrections ...
Cheers, Bantum.
- El_Freddo
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So it's a weak signal from the ignition switch then? Have I got this correct that you have simply given full battery strength power via a relay to the start's solenoid rather than using the wire from the ignition?steptoe wrote:Update: Finally fitted a 30A fused relay up, one with fuse mounted at front of relay from Jaycar, got power for terminal 30 at back of starter solenoid, power for terminal 86 from the wire female spade normally at starter solenoid, earth for terminal 85 went directly to an earthing point on the efi manifold and used an old L Series wiring looms starter solenoid wire from terminal 87 to the starter solenoid - retaining correct wire colour and trace
Since fitting three weeks or so ago - not one start symptom
Considered fixed, and not wired directly to battery terminal !!
Cheers
Bennie
- steptoe
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intermittently gave a no start first try, always start second (apart from barassing kill switch activation ) . Mainly after short heat soak stop, never when cold, never diagnosed as weak signal (signal?, maybe volts weak) never could actually catch it out, but now you ask, maybe my voltmeter in dash for knock sensor and battery monitoring could have been hooked up to starter for checking.....
yep, cut the ign switches responsiblity down to exciter volts amps for relay - a typical mod for 70's and 80's Japanese 4 bangers
yep, cut the ign switches responsiblity down to exciter volts amps for relay - a typical mod for 70's and 80's Japanese 4 bangers
- Bantum
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Crossed Wires ...
Ok - Here is a Revised Wiring Diagram ...
Note : Thanks to Narva & others for info ...
Hope that helps ...
Ciao, Bantum
Note : Thanks to Narva & others for info ...
Hope that helps ...
Ciao, Bantum