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Hello fellow Soobi fans. Been too long since I've had time to play with my car let alone do some posts

I'm putting in manual controlled thermo fans, twin relays and an 1/off/2 dash switch, no auto.

How does the below diagram look? LED was an afterthought. At first I though an illuminated switch but there are not many out there small enough to fit in the cluster above the headlight (S1) switch on the L (same place inside air etc is located).

critical Jonno, sharing what I found to be easier than inline fuses - Jayacr at least sell relays with a fuse socket in the front so incoming power through pin 30 goes via the fuse. Easy to find and check if and when need arises

Looks fine, but why no auto control?

steptoe wrote:...relays with a fuse socket in the front so incoming power through pin 30 goes via the fuse...

Thx for the heads up Jono, see this thread for a rough diagram of my drivers side fuse panel (inc fuses), relays will sit just a few cm away. Needless I do have one of these fused relays that I do a bit of testing with.

Gannon wrote:Looks fine, but why no auto control?

To be honest Gannon, I probably should. I lacked an understanding of wiring in the early year and a few years with a bad radiator have lead to me like watching engine temp. I have an aftermarket temp gauge that shows actual incremental temperature so I can control fans in real time.

The only reason I'd now add an auto setting is for when someone else drives my car. Peace of minds sake. Not sure how I can wire that into my current setup.

Few new pics of where its up to. Essentially a labelled pigtail ready to be installed.

think it is smart having both fans whoop it up at same time - no mucking around, BUT I also find it handy in some situations just to have one fan on (and forget its on )

I reckon next Brumby will get the fans, or maybe one, come on in conjunction with the brake lights - you know, sitting in traffic, foot is on brake a lot anyway - allows for mind to be in neutral and engine keep cool.

Neville fitted a TFS132 to his rad and fans come on at 85 off at 80. I fitted same part number, fans come on at 92 and off at 72 despite what tridon claim !!

Discrete switch dash mounted. Led lights when either 1 or two fans powered.


LED is BRIGHT at night, some dull red paint might do the trick. Would not be so
bad were it mounted at a lower "out of face" location.


Relays, one per fan, separately fused from existing dist block. Just noticed I have
the 25A fuses still, need to drop that back to 15 each.


Thread complete.

Colin, that fuse panel , is it a single input for all the blade fuses ? If so, it is a better alternative to the one I installed, and curious to klnow where you got it , brand, part number etc, save me making up my loops on the next project.
Those LEDs are more spot than flood hey ? The reminder light is a good idea, may have to include these somewhere too, and despite my recent dramas from wire fiddling, still think I am going to use brake light switch to activate a fan - using a diode of course

Rough the outer surface of the LED with sandpaper, makes it like a frosted/opaque bulb and gives a scattered light output

steptoe wrote:...is it a single input for all the blade fuses

Yep works quite well, I like things neat as I can to my ability. Ebay, search fuse block. This one is a Blade terminal, ring terminal under screws would have been better. This one is a 6 way. Some also have a ground bar, but I find that unnecessary in a chassis grounded vehicle. Think it was $24 ish.

I'm also really keen on these heat shrink connectors (though a little pricey).

(insert multi quote)...woops

Jaycar LED in Bezel so cant buff the surface unfortunately, though good thinking Gannon.

nice, thanks for the links

fuse size same as what is in L Series fuse blocks or next size down ?

I just use heatshrink 6.00mm over my connectors - black and red most commonly used, and never just plier crimp - either solder or utilux tool # 61 them. I am always pulling the plastic ferrule insulators off and dropping them about the place

Yep standard blade fuses, same as under dash in the L series

LED in Bezel so cant buff the surface unfortunately, though good thinking Gannon.

Those chromed LED bezels can be seperated easily, I used pull them apart to use my own preferred waterclear LED's as well as diffusing there output as per Gannon's suggestion. As for mentioning J@#$%r, I used to work at one so I wont make any specific endorsements.

J.