What gauge cable?

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Thu Aug 06, 2015 6:55 pm

Don't forget the basics, your earth return has to equal your +ve.
Don't forget the chassis/gearbox/body earths.
If you are going to run something high current, like a big amp, run its power cables direct to the battery, with a suitable breaker.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 1:39 pm

So now I've got a big pile of cable waiting and ready to go. Next comes the terminals! Going with a mix of heat-shrink sealed water proof crimps for the engine bay/outsides and regular insulated crimp terminals for the interior. Gone with a few different suppliers for price and availability reasons. Didn't go with Carroll terminals in the end as I would need to take out a small mortgage just for all the heat shrink terminals I need, but I didn't go with cheap chinese rubbish either. Also bought a few relays to get me started (will need more) and I'm happy to see there are a few types of LED flasher unit available for indicators and hazards. The all LED tail lights looks to be a go

Pretty much found everything I need, except for one terminal! Can anyone identify the one below? Very intricate 2 piece jobbie. There were two of them in the Liberty fuse box underneath inside a connector. Big chunky 10mm spades going to big chunky wires direct to battery via fusible link. I can't find anything near them online, proprietary Subaru perhaps? If I can't find them I will probably just put the empty plug back in the fuse box and not use those two terminals. Didn't want to just splice into the existing 2 wires because they were both spliced into each other with not much spare wire hanging down. It's not like I need another huge power feed in my wiring anyway

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 5:48 pm

You could just solder the cable to the spades, then cover with heatshrink.
Crimp connectors, unless done carefully with the right tool for the connector can be unreliable.
I solder then heat shrink.
If soldered correctly they are reliable.
Poorly soldered causes other problems.
Its always been a debate about solder vs crimp.
Either, done correctly are great, either not done correctly will cause problems.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 7:24 pm

I use utilux H953 think they are brass female spade 6.` mm and tool #62 ? does a perfect crimp of stripped wire and then the insulated bit crimp ...just like the back of an aussie made wash mash or stove

then choice of colour of 6mm ? heatshrink.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Aug 15, 2015 8:17 pm

Soldering to those spades might be a bit tricky, they are deep inside a plastic housing for the plug to slip into. If I need to I'm sure it could be done though. I've bought a ratcheting crimp tool with a couple of different die sets; one for insulated and one for non-insulated terminals (think M shaped top to curl the two tangs over into the middle) Ordered an assortment of connectors: Male and female spades in varying sizes, ring terminals, bullet connectors, butt splices in insulated and non-insulated variety. Plus a pile of glue-lined heat shrink for protection of the non-insulated ones. The insulated ones are tin plated copper, non-insulated seem to be brass.

I'm going with the crimping route and done a bit of research on it. Seems to me if you've got the right tools and take a bit of care then they are reliable and strong. There is fierce debate of course over this, but I didn't like the idea of solder joints and vibration causing stress cracks over time. Plus crimping is quicker and less messy, you don't need 3 hands

Post by **Bantum** » Sun Aug 16, 2015 4:01 pm

Looks like a fuse blade holder :

Might want to ditch it & get something more suitable ...

Cheers, Bantum ...