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Today I finished rewiring my 98 Outback headlights, so they are switched through relays. Whoever thought the original wiring and switching was adequate must never drive in the dark I was losing 1.5v!
It's not a mindblowing upgrade, but it is definitely worth doing, the lights are much whiter now. I'm also running Philips +80 globes. The best thing about the upgrade is that high/low switching is now instant, before the upgrade it was kinda lazy between beams.
I'll still be fitting some driving lights though, when the funds allow. I just need to work out how to mount them without fitting a nudge bar....

ive done the same to my l series, makes quite a difference. But my wiring is kinda shabby, quick job (which is kinda embarassing seeing im an electrician) gonna have to fix it up soon

Could you post how you mount the stops on the OBW when you work it out. i want to do the same and have no solutions or ideas. i even have the lights but can't find a spot to mount them without a nuge bar

Will do. I need to pull the front bumper off and see what is under it. My plan was to make some sort of mount off something solid and hide it under the bumper, with just two holes visible, which bolts would bolt into. It may not be possible though, it looks like another big hunk of plastic under the plastic bumper!

you mean that the OBW has the wiring for the headlights,carrying all that current, goin to the cabin switches/relays whatnot and back to the lights? --eek same as on the Lseries. I haven't looked under the dash as yet...
As for mounting lights, look at what Superu did, that idea is growin on me;)
Certainly better than a nudge bar - hate the nudge bar concept/look.

Yeah it's a terrible design. Goes through 2 relays, left and right, which switch the common 12v+, then the stalk switch switches the neg load. Can you point me to Superu's lighting mount? I see it in his sig image, but I assume they aren't just bolted to the plastic bumper.

wonder what difference it will make if i do this, with my HID's...

alex

HID's may not benefit as much, as they would be a slightly lower wattage. It also depends on the condition of the hi/low switch. Is it easy to get to the pins to measure the voltage they are getting now? You can also measure the total voltage drop, measure voltage from the positive pin on the hid, to the +12v on the alternator, write that down, measure voltage from neg pin on hid to body earth, add that to your first number, and you have total voltage drop. Mine was 1.5v. I'd say it's worth doing, if only for the faster HI/lo switching.

Foxx510, so how much voltage drop do you have now?

You know I haven't bothered to measure it! I should, shouldn't I....

hey there foxx510 did you put both lights through 1 relay or did you keep the 2 seperate relays when you rewired your lights,the bar behind the bumper is thick steel so you could drill through it to mount your spot lights to the solid bar so its not buncing around on your bumper
cheers steve

Likewise,.. i havent measured mine since i redid mine.

dirty skirt wrote:hey there foxx510 did you put both lights through 1 relay or did you keep the 2 seperate relays when you rewired your lights,the bar behind the bumper is thick steel so you could drill through it to mount your spot lights to the solid bar so its not buncing around on your bumper
cheers steve

I actually fitted 3 relays, one for high beam, one for low beam, and one for the driving lights when I get around to it. I also fused all three power feeds for the relays separately so a fault would only take out one set of lights. Thanks for the tip on the steel bar.