Jakes EJ Conversion

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 8:27 pm

username wrote:i've bypassed this thing, don't know if it's good or bad?

That's just the vacuum switch to activate the idle up diaphragm, I wouldn't worry about it!

username wrote:I have a massive fuel leak coming from one of the hoses in the back. will fix on the weekend.

Have you upgraded all the fuel lines to EFI rated hose? Expensive stuff but well worth it...

And I've now seen what you've done with the liberty radiator - question: did you have to mod the lower support panel? Got any more details on this as it is something I might look into someday

Other than that your L is looking great!

Cheers

Bennie

username · Post by **username** » Mon Apr 04, 2011 7:18 pm

YO,

El Freddo - Didn't have to mod the radiator support, it just went straight in.

So i went driving and broke my gearbox real good. I was driving to VIC and the rear uni joint on my tail shaft broke, i took the tail shaft out and kept going. The gearbox is AWD so i thought i was 'nursing' it in FWD the rest of the way, turns out i burnt out the clutches? Is this what would have happened? After being cut off from the RAA 45000 times and 45000 mosquito bites i finally got rescued by an RAA dude who bent my allen keys trying to lock the rear output from the gearbox, even though i told him it wouldn't work. Ended up getting towed back to Manangatang, got kicked out of the pub for not having shoes and went to a locals going away party. Got my cousin to pick me up in the morning and towed to Swan Hill, at which point his courier decided it didn't like it's front diff anymore, so we were two cars down. Got my uncle to pick the subes up and roadside assistance took care of the courier. FINALLY made it to lake charm, jump into cousins torana, blew the gearbox 20k down the track. 3 cars down. Borrowed my grandfathers courier, Drove to Bendigo (took about 2 tanks too many, most fuel inefficient car i've ever been associated with) Got a tail shaft for the subes, fit tail shaft, car now drives, now safely back home. The problem is, it doesn't know if it want's to be 100% FWD or 100% RWD, and is constantly changing throughout normal driving conditions.
That's my story.

Should i a) Fix? the AWD box
or b) Put my old EA box in

Cheers,

Jake

username · Post by **username** » Mon Apr 04, 2011 7:26 pm

Also, El Freddo, i upgraded all my lines after my carby fuel filter exploded on the freeway and cost me 3/4 tank of petrol.

I wired the tacho dash in, turned out to be heaps easy, just time consuming and fiddly with those little clips. Everything is there, there is just small differences. All my carby wiring had yellow? stripes and all the EFI wiring had red? stripes, something really simple like that. There was only two actives from the carby wiring for the four lights on the EFI dash so i had to splice those in.

Got my steering wheel on as well. i bought some stone things from super cheap that you can put in a drill and just made the whole for the shaft bigger with those, took a little while but was worth it. You also have to drill two small holes either side for the indicators to self cancel. Only drawback is that i have to swerve for the horn to work, Can't be bothered fixing it

Cheers,

Jake.

username · Post by **username** » Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:53 pm

Or c) buy a turbo front cut?

SO MANY OPTIONS

Cheers,

Jake.

Dann · Post by **Dann** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:40 am

hey mate looking good :P

just trying to get my head around the radiator part... so you don't have to mod the bottom part only cut the top bar??
Is that legal to cut the radiator support??
just wondering cause i'm starting my EJ22 conversion and that would make life so much easier

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Apr 09, 2011 4:33 pm

Get another gearbox - all I think you need to swap is the rear housing on the gearbox where the centre diff is. You will have damaged this when trying to drive in front wheel drive only... Bugger! All this effort for a little uni joint = painful!

You should be able to remove the rear housing with the gearbox still in the car. The lift kit will help out with this. I don't know how difficult it is to do as I've not done it before! Just heard about this. If its easier to swap the gearbox go with that, then pull the old one apart and see what died

I see what you're talking about with the radiator now - I'm wondering how much room you have between your thermos and the front of the engine and how you've now attached the radiator securely - I know cable ties are the bomb but I don't think mr plod would say the same... Got pics?

Cheers

Bennie

username · Post by **username** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:45 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Get another gearbox - all I think you need to swap is the rear housing on the gearbox where the centre diff is. You will have damaged this when trying to drive in front wheel drive only... Bugger! All this effort for a little uni joint = painful!

You should be able to remove the rear housing with the gearbox still in the car. The lift kit will help out with this. I don't know how difficult it is to do as I've not done it before! Just heard about this. If its easier to swap the gearbox go with that, then pull the old one apart and see what died

I see what you're talking about with the radiator now - I'm wondering how much room you have between your thermos and the front of the engine and how you've now attached the radiator securely - I know cable ties are the bomb but I don't think mr plod would say the same... Got pics?

Cheers

Bennie

Can anyone confirm this? I think i was reading somewhere that Alpine Raven had done it but i can't find the thread now. I'm going to try and do it this weekend so i can do some coooool offroad travelling over easter.

I'll get some pics of my radiator for you Benny. It's been i dont know how long and the cable ties have held up... i bought some threaded rod with intensions of 'mounting' it properly but it never eventuated.

In the meantime, Here's some pics of my sweet new ride. This one's a 65

[ATTACH]3266[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3267[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3268[/ATTACH]

It even drives and everything. Pretty much had to replace most of things.

Cheers,

Jake

username · Post by **username** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:50 pm

Dann wrote:hey mate looking good :P

just trying to get my head around the radiator part... so you don't have to mod the bottom part only cut the top bar??
Is that legal to cut the radiator support??
just wondering cause i'm starting my EJ22 conversion and that would make life so much easier

You've probably finished by now but i didn't have to mod the bottom part at all - a lot of other people on here had to so i don't know what the go with that is. And it is definitely illegal to cut your radiator support, but if i'm going to defected it will get done for a lot of other things before they even look at that so it doesn't really bother me too much.

Cheers,

Jake.

username · Post by **username** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:42 pm

[ATTACH]3269[/ATTACH]

Aight so i'm guessing it's this bit. Do I have to mark anything/make sure anything lines up or is it just a 'plug and play' kinda thing?

Any help appreciated.

Cheers,

Jake.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:58 pm

Well this job is going to be a piece of piss since it's on the bench. Make sure it's in neutral!

1) Move all the wiring so that it's free to move with the rear casing

2) remove the top plate with the four bolts

3) inside there will be a 10mm bolt head on the selector shaft, loosen this off so that the selector shaft can move freely.

4) move the selector shaft so that it's free of the gear selector forks

5) undo all the bolts that hold the rear casing to the front half casings

6) if it's tough to remove, gently use a rubber or plastic mallet to help the rear section move.

The new rear section is the reversal of the above with the exception of the attention you need to put into the selector shaft - you need to make sure this is relocated back to it's spot in the gear selector forks. It can be a bit of fun. Then tighten up the little 10mm bolt.

That's about it. It could be a good time to replace the rear seal too. Also you might want to replace the paper gasket that's between the front and rear casings, I've not used it but some reckon it's required for correct gaps etc...

Cheers

Bennie

username · Post by **username** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:11 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Well this job is going to be a piece of piss since it's on the bench. Make sure it's in neutral!

1) Move all the wiring so that it's free to move with the rear casing

2) remove the top plate with the four bolts

3) inside there will be a 10mm bolt head on the selector shaft, loosen this off so that the selector shaft can move freely.

4) move the selector shaft so that it's free of the gear selector forks

5) undo all the bolts that hold the rear casing to the front half casings

6) if it's tough to remove, gently use a rubber or plastic mallet to help the rear section move.

The new rear section is the reversal of the above with the exception of the attention you need to put into the selector shaft - you need to make sure this is relocated back to it's spot in the gear selector forks. It can be a bit of fun. Then tighten up the little 10mm bolt.

That's about it. It could be a good time to replace the rear seal too. Also you might want to replace the paper gasket that's between the front and rear casings, I've not used it but some reckon it's required for correct gaps etc...

Cheers

Bennie

I stole that picture from another thread but i'll try and complete these steps with it still in the car, by the sounds of it it's going to suck. There's no other splines or anything i have to watch out for? I can't find the thread again with the picture of the rear housing removed, revealing scary bits that i'm not familiar with

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:13 pm

Hang ten, digging for pictures

Bennie

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:27 pm

EA gearbox down to the same point that you'll be stripping yours to:

This is the AWD gearbox split, not needed for what you're doing, but note the difference at the back of the gearbox with the length of the shafts and the lack of the gear on the pinion shaft (above with the EA box)

View when the top plate is removed (EJ):

^ The head of the 10mm bolt is below that cylinder piece in the top of the pic...

Doing it in the vehicle will be pretty tricky, especially if you can't see the bolt in the gearbox - you don't have to remove it, just loosen it off so you can move the selector shaft more than it would normally. Also don't let any crap fall into the gearbox

Cheers

Bennie

username · Post by **username** » Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:29 pm

Is the bolt directly on the bottom? Does that spin around a little bit so I can get a spanner on it or do I have to get a small one to fit in there?
I'm hoping if i drop the mounts off that i'll be able to get enough angle on it to do it while it's still in the car, like you said the lift will help. I'm not sure how i'm going to get one off at the wreckers though.

Cheers for your help

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:22 am

username wrote:Is the bolt directly on the bottom? Does that spin around a little bit so I can get a spanner on it or do I have to get a small one to fit in there?
I'm hoping if i drop the mounts off that i'll be able to get enough angle on it to do it while it's still in the car, like you said the lift will help. I'm not sure how i'm going to get one off at the wreckers though.

The 10mm bolt is on an angle towards the driver's side from memory on the selector shaft, it holds a little arm that goes into that cylindrical thing there...

You might find that wreckers will not allow you to separate a gearbox - I know over here they they only sell them as whole boxes!

Cheers

Bennie

username · Post by **username** » Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:22 pm

Went to you pull it at Gillman today, No Liberty's. Just had a look on the website and it says there's one in each other yard, Don't know if it's worth the drive to find out if they're AWD boxes or not. Got hold of Subawreck, they want 1350 a gearbox or 350 for the center diff but they don't have any in stock. Looks like I might be putting this on the back burner for another couple of months...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:27 pm

$1350 FOR A GEARBOX??? Are they insane or just trying to do themselve out of business??

I could probably get you a gearbox from PAP ($250) and SEND it to you via courier and it'd still be a pot load cheaper than that!

Cheers

Bennie

username · Post by **username** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:05 pm

So the bloke from Subawreck called me back today to tell me he had the centre diff on the counter ready for me to pick up, even though i only asked if he could get them :/ now i think i'll feel bad if i don't get it. I defs don't have 350 laying around though.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:08 pm

username wrote:So the bloke from Subawreck called me back today to tell me he had the centre diff on the counter ready for me to pick up, even though i only asked if he could get them :/ now i think i'll feel bad if i don't get it. I defs don't have 350 laying around though.

That's BS. He's probably just trying to force a sale on you. Offer him $100 and tell him you only asked for a quote, you didn't confirm that you were going to make a sale...

My 5c anyway.

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:55 pm

Yeah, I recall similar tactics by someone I was just asking about an EJ AWD box in EA casings - I still feel embarrassed/guilty of a misunderstanding - only revealed a year later - that might be it on the bench ?