Legacy 5 stud hub conversion on L series

Radeon · Post by **Radeon** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 12:56 pm

Hi everyone,
I have been trying to find info on how to do this for months. I cannot seem to find anyone who tells you exactly what you have to do in plain english, its so frustrating! I often get ppl giving me a link to another website but its usually been deleted or something so im hoping this thread will end all the screwing round!
I have 3 legacys (I think u call them liberty's in Oz?) at home i am prepared to use. Someone said you adapt the L series lower arms to fit the lagacy ball joint which got me thinking will the L series arms take the weight and strain of an ej20 twin turbo? Will modifying the arms even work?
Also i got told you need a metal lathe to do the back, but after having a look at them both i dont see how its that simple.
I would prefer to do this than the 6 stud conversion cos then i can use the bigger brakes, legacy shafts etc. Im putting an ej20tt into an L series RX coupe and want to make it special!
Pics wud b awesome

BRUMBERTY · Post by **BRUMBERTY** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 1:53 pm

Radeon wrote:Hi everyone,
Im putting an ej20tt into an L series RX coupe and want to make it special!

Oh I am sure this will be special, good luck with it Mate.
Speak to LegacyTT here on the board or have a look at Bratgeebahs kits.

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 4:22 pm

The front is easy enough, Just cut'n'paste the ends from the Legacy arms onto the L series ones, and add some reinforceing over the welds. I currently have a pair in my EJ20T RX Turbo.

As for the rear, Get the CrossBred kit. It's a bolt-in conversion then. Have a look in the authorised traders section for more info.

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 6:33 pm

front end- LEGACY struts - COMPLETE form top to bottom. redrill and reinforce teh L front arms to suit the Legacy ball joint. use the legacy rack and mod the crossmember to suit the engine and the rack ( the hole for the rack needs widening. the rest will line up.)

Rear - XT6 hubs (if you can find them!) and a lot of fiddling with mounting points - use WRX or Legacy rears complete from backing plate out. if you need ABS this is the only real way of doing it.

handbrake lever - WRX (mine anyway) with a modded support bracket - mounts are 90 deg out. cables - WRX/Legacy.

best option is BRATS kit. thats a bolt on and go affair for the rears. it WILL not support ABS. (in my case I moved the sensor.)

I am in the middle of what you are doing...

aussiewagon · Post by **aussiewagon** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:00 pm

Check this link out - I think it is a link from this site - cant remember. I believe this uses overseas components not too certain. I have an L series and these pics made it look easy - ofcourse depends on parts availability. http://corkysrocks.net/Conversion%204%20to%205.htm

subelover · Post by **subelover** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:15 pm

fantastic link at the end mate great work there very clear and simple rekon even i could do it now!lol .... cheers Ben

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:38 pm

that used ALL the XT6 bits. problem isthese are getting VERY hard to find. car itself is 15yr old and most are already crushed.

the fronts are literally a straight swap for legacy struts.

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:49 am

The rear can also be done by spinning down the leone hub on a lathe to fit inside the handbrake drum on the legacy disk, then use the leggy disk as a template to redrill new studs into leone hub, use leggy strut etc and you are away.

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 5:12 pm

ToyRX wrote:The rear can also be done by spinning down the leone hub on a lathe to fit inside the handbrake drum on the legacy disk, then use the leggy disk as a template to redrill new studs into leone hub, use leggy strut etc and you are away.

You actually machine down a drum brake, not the hub.
This was how mine was done originally.
Be warned though, you will have tyre to guard clearance problems with this setup.

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 5:21 pm

wagonist wrote:You actually machine down a drum brake, not the hub.
This was how mine was done originally.
Be warned though, you will have tyre to guard clearance problems with this setup.

Is this legal? why are you / did you change . Can this method be engineered?

I am looking for a method, but dont have the $ for Bratgeebah's kit

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:09 pm

Fury wrote:Is this legal? why are you / did you change . Can this method be engineered?

I am looking for a method, but dont have the $ for Bratgeebah's kit

Legal, engineerable: dunno.
Changing because of the aformentioned guard clearance.
My stub axles are for sale if you want.

Fury · Post by **Fury** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:46 pm

PM'ed , might be good as a temporary fix if i cant get engineering for it.

legacytt · Post by **legacytt** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 1:55 pm

I am having the third set I have done machined at the moment. The way we have done it is to cut the spline out of the drum and weld it into the Liberty Hub. The Lib backing plate is then modified to fit the L arm by changing the bolt pattern and welding in a disc to mount it flush with the arm.

Note: I can't vouch for the engineering qualification of this, despite the fact that it is plenty strong enough, they don't generally like welding with brake components involved.

However cost is around $200 for the machining and then the cost of the Lib brake setup front and rear.

As has been said if you want officially legal the Bratgeebah kits are the go.

subarursliberty · Post by **subarursliberty** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 9:45 pm

ToyRX wrote:The rear can also be done by spinning down the leone hub on a lathe to fit inside the handbrake drum on the legacy disk, then use the leggy disk as a template to redrill new studs into leone hub, use leggy strut etc and you are away.

Illegal. The wheel has nothing to sit on this way. Studs are not designed to have the wheel sitting on them. They are they to stop the sidways movement.

legacytt wrote:I am having the third set I have done machined at the moment. The way we have done it is to cut the spline out of the drum and weld it into the Liberty Hub. The Lib backing plate is then modified to fit the L arm by changing the bolt pattern and welding in a disc to mount it flush with the arm.

Note: I can't vouch for the engineering qualification of this, despite the fact that it is plenty strong enough, they don't generally like welding with brake components involved.

However cost is around $200 for the machining and then the cost of the Lib brake setup front and rear.

As has been said if you want officially legal the Bratgeebah kits are the go.

Illegal in NSW as it is classed as welding and dowling. You cna not legally join 2 axles togeather to make one with welding and dowling it.

It sucks I know. I sat down with an engineer one day and it comes down to the kit currently forsale or a new design.

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 10:21 pm

Instead of welding, would a press fit be possible?

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 10:38 pm

the understanding I had with another fellow was resplinig the WRX ones. not sure on the legality of that but it does get done.

(the blue drag brumby was done that way I'm lead to believe.)

subarursliberty · Post by **subarursliberty** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:43 pm

Chris_Rogers wrote:the understanding I had with another fellow was resplinig the WRX ones. not sure on the legality of that but it does get done.

(the blue drag brumby was done that way I'm lead to believe.)

You could re spline it but thats not where it stops. You would have to machine it to suit the oil seal on one side then machine it to suit the larger nut of the MY-L series.

Its a catch 22.

Radeon · Post by **Radeon** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 1:37 pm

Ok i should of mentioned before that here in new zealand XT6 Vortex parts dont exist at all so does anyone know how to do this swap using legacy/liberty parts ONLY?

Chris_Rogers · Post by **Chris_Rogers** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:27 pm

brats kit is the only way to do it then. the hubs are too different.

Radeon · Post by **Radeon** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:01 am

Yea i cant afford the kit, even if i had the money i would still do the conversion myself. Im pretty good at figuring shit out myself and no one seems keen to tell me their secrets (which is fair enuf) so looks like il have to do a bit of fiddling

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