Suparoo's TF035 & WAIC install *** Almost Finished***

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:38 pm

Cools looking good!
Don't forget to top up your brake fluid before you drive with the extra power

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 3:22 pm

FINISHED!!!!

Took it for a drive this-arvo and wow, from cruise to 7psi at 100kmh, it builds boost heaps quicker. It starts making boost abut 1800rpm and hits 7psi before 2200rpm, before it was about 2100rpm and 2400rpm

Ive also installed a 'Malpassi AFPR' and set it to 40psi (factory is 36 i think) but havent had a chance to test it.

Only problem is my Air/fuel ratio gauge isnt working. It just sits on lean all the time.

Could i have damaged it by welding near it when i welded in my o2 sensor bung?

EDIT: Oh and the noise, it whistles way more than the old IHI FV4, and flutter sounds heaps better too.

I found that my BOV (stock RS one) leaks heaps under boost... Is that normal?

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:58 pm

Completion Pictures

I havent yet plumbed the BOV, ive just taped up the end cos it leaks

Close up of the turbo,... apart from the blue silicone pipe, it looks almost factory.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:30 pm

Nice work, you should get a cheap Bov from Autobarn as you can never stop those standard Subaru ones from leaking

schultzie · Post by **schultzie** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:17 pm

that is what they do stock they are open in all vacume and close at 1psi so that is exactly how a functioning bov should work.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:21 pm

Just my 2c but a heat shield wouldn't be a bad idea .

Your call but rising rate fuel pressure regulators aren't really a complete solution . What they do is make the fuel pressure (provided the pump is up to it) rise faster than manifold pressure but the computer doesn't know this .

One known way is to fit slightly larger injectors and use an interceptor to bend the AFM's signal to get suitable AFR's . Do a search on Jaycars "Digital Fuel Adjuster" .

BTW I think its Nissan 280ZX turbo hose tail injectors that fall in and are a little bit larger than EA82T . FJ20ET injectors would also fit but harder to find and exy .

Cheers A .

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:59 pm

schultzie wrote:that is what they do stock they are open in all vacume and close at 1psi so that is exactly how a functioning bov should work.

Ones that have not seen a lot of work do that but i have a stack of OEM ones that never close and always leak. You can see why when you crack them open, the develop a ridge where they used to seal and then the actuator moves and thats the end of the sealing.

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:42 pm

Great news that its up and running.
The whistle is an indication that its running lean.
I went the Malpassi way myself, but it only compensated for a stock set up, not modified. I agree with the suggested options, but maybe a Megasquirt II ECU may suit you as well.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:18 am

1983 280ZX tail style injectors according to my notes

Looks great, almost as if that is how Fuji meant it to be

maybe your mixture meter is still working if the turbo whistle means lean

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:08 am

The fuel pressure regulator is a 1:1, im only using it cos the stock one was shot, and the malpassi was easier and probably cheaper than a subaru one.

Heat shields are on the way

Can i get a recirc BOV thats equivalent to the RS one cheaply?

It just sounds like a normal turbo whistle, i doubt its running lean cos i upped the fuel pressure temporarily to the point where it was stumbling and the a/f gauge still showed lean.

I think that the current flow damaged the o2 sensor while i was welding, if the leds on the a/f gauge were numbered 1 - 20 (one being lean and 20 being rich) it only moves between 2 and 4, through all driving conditions, surely it cant be runnng lean constantly, especially if i increase fuel pressure, i'll get a new sensor and see what happens.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:21 am

you can get a Goyon Industrial air valve from a Industrial supplier, depending on what type shouldn't be than $100, not sure what their worth now.....

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 4:32 pm

The A/F gauge is starting to respond a little more now, it moves between 2 and 8 on the leds now.

I was thinking, the o2 sensor mighta got wet in that rain we had.

Ive ordered a new one anyway. will see how it goes

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:58 pm

wt does upping the Fuel pressure got to do with making it run richer?

wont the FPR be sending more backwards to the tank.
and the ECU will shorten the injecctor opening time.

maybe its different for turbos

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:51 am

More fuel pressure = more fuel squeezed through injector.

BrennyV · Post by **BrennyV** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:18 am

Hey mate looks like a good little upgrade your undertaking. I just wanted to make sure that your going to be using some good hose clamps for everything on the positive side. That bov setup looks like a bad idea as they will leak or even blow off if they are not clamped really well. That factory Subaru plum back will not operate properly unless been using in a plum back setup (even then they are crap :P ). If you want a good plum back the evo 8/9 metal ones are good for upto 2bar or if u can find a good 2nd hand gfb 50/50. Not having a go just pointing out a few bits I noticed

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:35 am

do those new specs for boost come from just the new turbo/ how does the new intercooler make a difference.
you are right theres heaps more whistling and flutter from the later model turbos. im loving my new td04- that is when the car is loving me and running.

btw for those 280zx or even 300zx injectors apparently the brown ones are the best- from my research anyway.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:54 am

Yeah my hose clamps are quality screw type ones, not the T-bolt type but not supercheap hose clamps either.

The BOV is currently not hooked up, i need a 3/4" fitting to put in the pre turbo pipe and some propper hose clamps. Its just blocked off at the moment.

I havent got the pump hooked up yet so the intercooler isnt doing anything. The boost starts earlier, but is smoother than with the stock turbo.

How does you TD04 compare as far as when it comes onto boost?

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm

Finished the BOV

I had to use a 1" to 3/4" adapter polypipe bend. Work fine and makes little noise, barely noticable

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:39 pm

Suparoo wrote: The boost starts earlier, but is smoother than with the stock turbo.

How does you TD04 compare as far as when it comes onto boost?

mine sounds very similar to this. i have more torque down low, boost starts earlier and smoother. it spikes to about 5psi then goes down to about 3psi and boost very smoothly up from there up to 7psi. its not an instant hit of boost and thats it like the vf4. when my car is running again i might put the boost controller on just to see how she goes then.

redskin · Post by **redskin** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:30 pm

Great work Gannon, well documented to. l read you are wanting to push more fuel through your injectors as as they have already been mentioned l'll add my 2 cents.
When l first got the ute going and for almost 12 months including the time you came for a drive it ran 280 brown cap injectors. l replaced these with a set of rebuilt 82 RX redcap injectors that l'm still running and noticed an immeadiate loss of power, nothing major, just not as crisp, there is a difference between the 2. We tried, 3 times tuning it out but the Dyno never lies.
l'm refitting browncaps and after reading this post, looking for a new turbo l s'pose, anybody want a rebuilt Turbo and injectors?

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Suparoo's TF035 & WAIC install * Almost Finished*