Lift kit advise and sugestions

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:11 pm

Yeah thats only a difference of 1" the rear CV's won't worry too much about that I'd say.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:32 pm

What did you mean by that? i didn't quite understand of what your refuring too.

But loves all the replies, hels a lot to make up my mind:P

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 10:02 pm

If the diff is dropped by a different amount to the hubs then they are at at different (wider) angle to stock, which puts them under abit of extra stress, but a slight difference is fine.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 2:24 am

oh ok i get it now:P

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:05 pm

So now I'm guessing its a case of working out what you really want Gymph? I had started following this thread but forgot about it. Having just read it all again it sounds like you're mad keen on the 4 inch lift kit. The 3 inch will do the job - Keffa has done it (as AndrewT has said) but the 4 inch will give you the bragging rights as Subi Wan has said in one of your quotes.

It really comes down to the extra money you'll be dishing out for the 4 inch kit over the 3 inch kit. I think the steel kit would be a bit cheaper than the alloy kit - ask about the prices for the different kits - 3 inch alloy, 3 inch steel, 4 inch alloy and the 4 inch steel. Alloy or steel, they both do the same thing but for some people its the issue of weight with the alloy kit probably being marginally lighter IMO.

I wouldn't worry about ripping captive nuts unless you're hitting things hard or jumping your subi all the time. A regular under-carriage check is a good habit to get into regardless of how you drive your subi.

And as for the diff protector - you can put it on your current diff, it is detachable from the diff you've photographed. The trick to working out the diff ratio is to mark a tooth through the top oil fill hole - then count the teeth - 39 teeth = 3.9 ratio, 37 teeth = 3.7 ratio diff... Pretty easy.

If you've got your heart set on the 4 inch then you've already got your answer without fishing for one of us to tell you to go for it. Otherwise speak to Keffa about his 3 inch kit and the 29's he ran, he should be able to give you the best advice on your question.

Cheers

Bennie

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:58 am

Hi guys,

I have done the conversion, The EJ is running fine and everything seems to work. I need to sort out the acceleration cable get some legal tyres and i'll go to the pits:P I will put pics up soon on the link below:)

Im still not sure about the lift kits, I want the 4" but the cost issue is pushing me towards the 3".

Also i would like to know, With a 3 or 4" lift kit, From reading on the forum i see that there are speedo cable issues and break lines issues as they become too short. Whats the solution for those problems??

Also are there any other simillar issues that would be caused by a 3 or 4" lift kit?

thx
Guyph

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 11:59 am

lol, I think you are confusing yourself about lift kits, more than anyone I've ever seen. Just buy one and chuck it in!

Congrats on getting the EJ going!

Regarding speedo cables, most 3" lifted L series I've seen the speedo cable still works. With 4" you may be able to get away with it by re-routing it a little to get abit more slack but will most likely need to swap it with a longer one. Some people say automatic cables are longer (altho the only one of these I've seen personally was actually shorter). It's also been said Brumby cables are longer. I can't confirm this personally.

You can get a speedo cable "gearbox"....this is a little box with gears in it which goes in-line in your speedo cable. People buy these with a preset ratio and use them to correct the speedo cable reading so your km/h is still accurate after fitting larger tyres. These also have the added bonus of giving you an opportunity for a longer speedo cable as they have to go in-line.

Incase your wondering, my 6" wagon's speedo cable is currently disconnected (its WAY too short). I'll be hooking it back up again when I do my transfer case conversion cause my gearbox will be mounted back up in stock location then.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:46 am

hummmm ok.

:P i want to know as much as i can before i do it so its easier to do.

How about the gear selector bars, are they going to be ok or would they need to be extended etc?

Have put some pics of my car on my members page:)

thx

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 11:55 am

The gear selector will be fine without any modification, however the little nylon bushes must be in reasonable condition. If they are old and flogged out (sloppy gearstick) then it may struggle to select gears, or pop out of gear occasionally due to the little bit extra it needs to push the rod after lifting.
The bushes cost me roughly $15to$20 once when I bought a set about 5 years back from Odin Auto parts, I prolly paid too much tho.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 4:56 pm

ok cool.

Another thing, how do i find out if my diff is LSD,
And what is the difference between clsd and vlsd?

thx

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 6:53 pm

Your diff won't be LSD unless somebody has put one into your car for some reason.
The sticker on the backing plate that says the ratio will also say LSD if it's LSD (providing the sticker is there, and providing the backing plate itself wasn't also swapped for the incorrect one).

CLSD is clutch LSD. There are clutch plates inside which have a certain amount of friction. These diffs provide a limited amount of slip at all times. These are found in Vortex's and RXturbo's.

VLSD is viscus LSD. It has a fuild filled centre which provides some friction as the fuild heats up, ie, when you boot it. These are found in Liberty RS's and WRX's etc.

Most people rekon clutch LSD is the best for offroading. VLSD is more suitable for on-road driving.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:17 pm

My diff is a 3.7 one, I'll try to see if its a LSD, dont think so
Is there any other way of telling if its LSD?
Does the CLSD diff come in 3.7?

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:24 pm

guyph_01 wrote:ok cool.

Another thing, how do i find out if my diff is LSD,
And what is the difference between clsd and vlsd?

thx

easy way knowing if you have LSD is jack both rear wheels off the ground, turn one wheel around and look on other side - if both turns at same direction then you're likely to have LSD, if it turns opposite way then its open diff....

Here is a picture of open diff

Here is a picture of VLSD from RS Liberty.

Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:27 pm

guyph_01 wrote:My diff is a 3.7 one, I'll try to see if its a LSD, dont think so
Is there any other way of telling if its LSD?
Does the CLSD diff come in 3.7?

I think RX Leone was 3.7 diff.. I could be wrong tho... CLSD are getting harder to find in these days now, I've been looking (obviously looking in wrong places) for about 4 years now and still havent found CLSD. There is a few of VLSD going around, i know someone who has one for $350 off from WRX but needs stubs.
Cheers
AP

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:50 pm

hi,

Does a 3.7 CLSD diff exist? I called Swan wrekers and he said they never made them :S

If anyone has one for sale plz let me know.
thx

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 7:56 pm

All early plated diffs were 3.7:1
Don't let that worry you as they can be easily changed.
I have a 3.9 and two 4.444.
Don't pay any more than $750 for it 2nd hand as they're only $1500 new.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 8:21 pm

Yeah the guys at Swan's are absolute meat heads and wouldn't know anything.
As Brumbyrunner says, the clutch LSD's found in some performance L series, are 3.7...but can be easily re-ratio'ed if required.

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:05 pm

i have just payed for some HD springs for my L and king springs can not give me HD as thay said that thay do not make them any more .
i will post some pics of them next week with before and after for u all .

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:14 pm

guyph_01 wrote:hi,

Does a 3.7 CLSD diff exist? I called Swan wrekers and he said they never made them :S

If anyone has one for sale plz let me know.
thx

They are out there, also you can change ratios from any ratios from 4.44 (possibly a bit too big for older diffs) otherwise would be 4.11 to 3.545:1...
You DO NOT listen what wreckers says.. they think they know everything, don't take them seriously, I learnt that when I first got my car... I was asking around for something then they said "there is no such a thing, or there never been one or made it etc" and lost interests until I came across and made me think that they were lying or bullshitting me.. so don't take em seriously, best way is to ask us here.
Cheers
AP

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:16 pm

Common prices for VLSD is around $250-$350 depending where you go.
CLSD is getting rare and I would expect pay a bit more than $350 - 500 to 750 maximum.
Cheers
AP