Brumby Electric window install
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
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- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
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Brumby Electric window install
Hey all!
Today I've been fiddling around with Sunnie the brumby to get some electric window motors fitted. I have to give credit to SuBaRiNo Dave, with out dave helping me out I'd still be scratching my head...
Okay, what you need:
- MY electric window regulators, left and right. It doesn't appear to matter if they're front or back as the regulator design is the same, the window runner is different.
- Either a touring wagon electric window wiring loom, console and switches or
- A back yard wiring loom that looks like this:
The switches need to be a push type ON OFF ON switch of about 20 Amps so I've been told. This was how I was going to do it originally.
But having got hold of a touring wagon loom I've used this and cut out a lot of work.
Now, the doors:
This is what your door looks like now without any trim mounted: Your looking at your window winder bolts. 4 for the regulator on the left, 2 for the secondary arm guide on the right:
Remove the regulator from the door. You will need to have the window down to undo the bolts holding the window runner to the window. What you need to get off this is the window runner, then forget about the hand winder regulator:
1) This is your hand winder regulator on the left and the touring wagon regulator on the right - roughly the way it mounts in the door:
This is the change in the window runner, the touring wagon unit is above the electric motor regulator that is fitted with the brumby/coupe window runner:
3 bolt mounts are high - the one that is not screwed to the unit needs to be flattened out, otherwise the unit won't fit. This is the pic showing the top right bolt hole flattened out - it was not used in the install in the car:
I don't have a pic of the bolts installed, but have indicated below which ones have been used, the cluster of three on the left are the motor and regulator, the two on the right are the secondary arm guide - You should beable to see the metal moulding for the fitment of the motor and regulator:
The horizontial arrows are the mounting holes for the regulator, the vertical arrows for the secondary arm guide. The top right hole will not be used, I'm not sure as to why I highlighted it.
Operation of window:
Well, it worked well, a slow period in the driver's door in the middle but it was steady. The window will not wind all the way down, there is 2 or 3 inches of the window left exposed when the motor has reached the end of the gear "sproket".
I'm not happy with this - tomorrow I will be modifying the electric window regulator - when the motor has the window as far up as it can go there is still about 3 inches of usable sproket that the motor cannot utilise. My aim is to pin the sprocket to the regulator framework, drill out the spot welds and slide the arm along further before re-welding it to the sproket.
Wait out for pics and further write up before posting please.
Cheers
Bennie
Today I've been fiddling around with Sunnie the brumby to get some electric window motors fitted. I have to give credit to SuBaRiNo Dave, with out dave helping me out I'd still be scratching my head...
Okay, what you need:
- MY electric window regulators, left and right. It doesn't appear to matter if they're front or back as the regulator design is the same, the window runner is different.
- Either a touring wagon electric window wiring loom, console and switches or
- A back yard wiring loom that looks like this:
The switches need to be a push type ON OFF ON switch of about 20 Amps so I've been told. This was how I was going to do it originally.
But having got hold of a touring wagon loom I've used this and cut out a lot of work.
Now, the doors:
This is what your door looks like now without any trim mounted: Your looking at your window winder bolts. 4 for the regulator on the left, 2 for the secondary arm guide on the right:
Remove the regulator from the door. You will need to have the window down to undo the bolts holding the window runner to the window. What you need to get off this is the window runner, then forget about the hand winder regulator:
1) This is your hand winder regulator on the left and the touring wagon regulator on the right - roughly the way it mounts in the door:
This is the change in the window runner, the touring wagon unit is above the electric motor regulator that is fitted with the brumby/coupe window runner:
3 bolt mounts are high - the one that is not screwed to the unit needs to be flattened out, otherwise the unit won't fit. This is the pic showing the top right bolt hole flattened out - it was not used in the install in the car:
I don't have a pic of the bolts installed, but have indicated below which ones have been used, the cluster of three on the left are the motor and regulator, the two on the right are the secondary arm guide - You should beable to see the metal moulding for the fitment of the motor and regulator:
The horizontial arrows are the mounting holes for the regulator, the vertical arrows for the secondary arm guide. The top right hole will not be used, I'm not sure as to why I highlighted it.
Operation of window:
Well, it worked well, a slow period in the driver's door in the middle but it was steady. The window will not wind all the way down, there is 2 or 3 inches of the window left exposed when the motor has reached the end of the gear "sproket".
I'm not happy with this - tomorrow I will be modifying the electric window regulator - when the motor has the window as far up as it can go there is still about 3 inches of usable sproket that the motor cannot utilise. My aim is to pin the sprocket to the regulator framework, drill out the spot welds and slide the arm along further before re-welding it to the sproket.
Wait out for pics and further write up before posting please.
Cheers
Bennie
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12506
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
The mod went well and I'm walking around like !El_Freddo wrote:Well, it worked well, a slow period in the driver's door in the middle but it was steady. The window will not wind all the way down, there is 2 or 3 inches of the window left exposed when the motor has reached the end of the gear "sproket".
I'm not happy with this - tomorrow I will be modifying the electric window regulator - when the motor has the window as far up as it can go there is still about 3 inches of usable sproket that the motor cannot utilise. My aim is to pin the sprocket to the regulator framework, drill out the spot welds and slide the arm along further before re-welding it to the sproket.
Here's what to do to get the windows to go ALL the way down:
As already stated the touring wagon regulators bolt straight in the brumby doors, the final pic in the next post will show this bolt pattern with the modified secondary arm guide hole - none are highlighted as they are above...
Here's what had to be done in short:
1) swap the touring wagon window runner for the brumby's window runner (as stated in above post)
2) pin sprocket to framework and drill out the welds that hold the arm to the sproket. Move in CORRECT direction and re-weld
3) using the touring wagon runner from point 1, cut it down to create a new longer second arm guide
4) weld between the teeth on sprocket when the window was as far down as I wanted it to go - this stops the electric motor and regulator flexing the inner door panel when the window cannot go down any further but there is still more sprocket gearing to use.
Skip step one as its posted above already.
Step 2:
This is the regulator in the stock form, I have already drilled out the welds.
The regulator arm has to move towards the thinner end of the sprocket WITHOUT the hole in it. If you weld it to the end with the hole it will never go down (I learned from experience from lack of concerntration). This is the position I welded it in - just slid the arm over so that one weld drilled out lined up with the other hole, it worked out really well:
When you weld this on here's a tip: DO NOT weld along the arm closest to the motor - the guide will not go past your welding - as you can see I've had to grind mine off, loosing the smooth surface for the guide to slide on:
I welded the back for extra strenght as I have not welded in a long time my skill level is not what it used to be...
Next step in the mod:
Measure about an inch or so in from the secondary arm guide's hole, the one closest to the front of the car, measure in the same direction as the front of the car, Drill and Slot a hole here - The pic below shows the bolt hole in red that i drilled - this bolt hole is very close to the sprocket when window is up. I recommend placing the hole somewhere near the green arrow. The seconardary arm stops over the original bolt hole, this is the reason for this mod:
Now, take the touring wagon window runner, front or back it doesn't matter. Then take the removable "fixed nuts" off the standard seconadary arm guide and slide one on the end of the TW's runner. Bolt this into the standard guide hole closest to the back of the door (the whole regulator unit is not installed for this). Mark where the hole has to be drilled on the runner then remove from the door.
Drill the hole.
Standard Touring Wagon window runner with new hole drilled and removable "fixed" nut:
Cut off the excess runner making sure you cut on the correct side of the new hole so that the movable nut is on the other end with the new hole. The left piece of runner in the pic below is the new secondary arm guide:
Fit this to the secondary arm followed by the other fixed nut. This should now all bolt into the door with the new guide hole and work a treat.
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12506
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
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Next thing I did was move the window down as far as I wanted it to go where the glass was under the window sill and before the regulator started trying to move the bottom of the door; remove the regulator in this position, it will be hard to get the window retainer bolts out but it can be done.
Once out have a look at where the electric motor gear is and count the teeth from the end of the sprocket. The trick to this is to fill the gap between the two teeth that don't have the gear cog all the way in by using the welder. You have to maintain at least the height of the teeth for this to work or the motor tries to "drive" over the stopper.
Fit the unit and check to see if everything is alright, if not adjust as necessary.
The complete unit will look like this - the stopper is difficult to see but it is on the end with the hole, three teeth in from the end stopper:
Make sure you fit the regulator spring back inplace before final installation - I always put it in before fitting and testing things...
It may seem difficult but when your into it and if confident with a welder it will be a breeze. Biggest problem I had was holding the sprocket so it wouldn't move as I was moving other parts before the arm was re-welded. Check things before "final strength welding" - this will save you a lot of time if anything is out of whack.
Expect to weld, grind, weld and grind - looks something like this:
I hope this helps and inspires all those who have been thinking of this mod to their little brumby, its been well worth the effort for us and the write up here. Again, I'd like to thank SuBaRiNo for helping me out with info
Bennie
Once out have a look at where the electric motor gear is and count the teeth from the end of the sprocket. The trick to this is to fill the gap between the two teeth that don't have the gear cog all the way in by using the welder. You have to maintain at least the height of the teeth for this to work or the motor tries to "drive" over the stopper.
Fit the unit and check to see if everything is alright, if not adjust as necessary.
The complete unit will look like this - the stopper is difficult to see but it is on the end with the hole, three teeth in from the end stopper:
Make sure you fit the regulator spring back inplace before final installation - I always put it in before fitting and testing things...
It may seem difficult but when your into it and if confident with a welder it will be a breeze. Biggest problem I had was holding the sprocket so it wouldn't move as I was moving other parts before the arm was re-welded. Check things before "final strength welding" - this will save you a lot of time if anything is out of whack.
Expect to weld, grind, weld and grind - looks something like this:
I hope this helps and inspires all those who have been thinking of this mod to their little brumby, its been well worth the effort for us and the write up here. Again, I'd like to thank SuBaRiNo for helping me out with info
Bennie
I’m not sure what your welding there... im too lazy to read the thread but i never welded anything when i did it.
Awesome write up though... figured there would be some interest. Still got me stuffed why they never put electric windows in the brumbys.
Dave
Awesome write up though... figured there would be some interest. Still got me stuffed why they never put electric windows in the brumbys.
Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email (davem2000@hotmail.com) for details.
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
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- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
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Thanks mate, I love writing up stuff like this. Don't be lazy, read the whole thing!SuBaRiNo wrote:Awesome write up though... figured there would be some interest. Still got me stuffed why they never put electric windows in the brumbys.
I tried changing the angle of the motor - this worked til the window still wouldn't go down any further. In hind sight this would have been due to the secondary arm runner being too short. I do prefer using the proper mount holes though. All the effort paid off anyway, we love the results... Now it time to get the rest of the door together after painint exposed metal...
Thanks for all your help again mate, it was just what I needed to get onto the right track!
Cheers
Bennie
- Bantum
- General Member
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- Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:30 pm
- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
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Another one to go ...
Ok - I have got all my runner's, etc & will have a go it installing when I get the chance ...
One quirey I do have - When comparing the runner X arms, can they be swaped Ie: keeping the brumby's & just take the backing plate with motor ( from where the pin / spring is ) & swap them ? ( I'm taking in to account the swing arms are different lengths + the gear is drive is also different ...
One quirey I do have - When comparing the runner X arms, can they be swaped Ie: keeping the brumby's & just take the backing plate with motor ( from where the pin / spring is ) & swap them ? ( I'm taking in to account the swing arms are different lengths + the gear is drive is also different ...