power steering into L series
power steering into L series
I've got a power steering rack sitting at home that I'm thinking about putting into my wagon. The rack is out of a 1991 4wd carbie auto L series, my car is an EJ18 powered 1993 model, unlifted, currently with manual steering. I have the EJ power steering pump, hoses from both L and Impreza, and all the mounting brackets and bushes.
Can I expect all this to go together pretty easily? Will steering columns match? Rack boots (just put new ones on the manual rack)? Tie rod ends?
And is it worth replacing any seals etc before I put it in? The wreck had been sitting for a couple of years, and the pump for some months at least.
Thanks,
Dane.
Can I expect all this to go together pretty easily? Will steering columns match? Rack boots (just put new ones on the manual rack)? Tie rod ends?
And is it worth replacing any seals etc before I put it in? The wreck had been sitting for a couple of years, and the pump for some months at least.
Thanks,
Dane.
- steptoe
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1993 model what ? L ? or factory EJ18 fitted Imp?
Pumps are easy enough to remove once fitted for exchange or repair. I know on my L turbo the access to power lines at rack is nil, I swapped my power for power rack when engine was out. Think boots are same across L racks. Before disemble i marked inside rim at edge then measured between to do rough wheel alignment on refit - still using that rough measure of 1220mm
Pumps are easy enough to remove once fitted for exchange or repair. I know on my L turbo the access to power lines at rack is nil, I swapped my power for power rack when engine was out. Think boots are same across L racks. Before disemble i marked inside rim at edge then measured between to do rough wheel alignment on refit - still using that rough measure of 1220mm
Should go together fairly easy but a few points to consider;
- The EJ lines should bolt straight into the L rack, however they may need to be tweaked slightly (bent) to get them to line up better.
- The steering extension might need to be replaced for a matching one for the L rack, my sedan had a manual rack and the steering extension was way too long. Just grab one from a P/S L series.
- If the L series you got the rack from had good steering allignment you should be fine to drive it straight away but it will still be slightly out. Best practice really dictates you should get a front wheel allignment when making any changes to the front end.
- Yes it can be a real bastard to connect the lines to the rack with the engine in place.... it is possible (I've done it with an EJ20G in place complete with the turbo headers in the way!) but it can be done HEAPS easier if you unbolt the engine mounts and jack the engine up just a few inches.
- If the rack is in good condition you wouldn't need to replace any seals, but this is up to you, if you replace them now you won't have to in the future. One important one is the two tiny little o-rings on the end of the EJ lines where they plug into the rack - these are easily damaged when old so best to get new ones.
- Not sure if the rack boots will swap over, check it out I guess, if they do that's a nice bonus for you.
- The EJ lines should bolt straight into the L rack, however they may need to be tweaked slightly (bent) to get them to line up better.
- The steering extension might need to be replaced for a matching one for the L rack, my sedan had a manual rack and the steering extension was way too long. Just grab one from a P/S L series.
- If the L series you got the rack from had good steering allignment you should be fine to drive it straight away but it will still be slightly out. Best practice really dictates you should get a front wheel allignment when making any changes to the front end.
- Yes it can be a real bastard to connect the lines to the rack with the engine in place.... it is possible (I've done it with an EJ20G in place complete with the turbo headers in the way!) but it can be done HEAPS easier if you unbolt the engine mounts and jack the engine up just a few inches.
- If the rack is in good condition you wouldn't need to replace any seals, but this is up to you, if you replace them now you won't have to in the future. One important one is the two tiny little o-rings on the end of the EJ lines where they plug into the rack - these are easily damaged when old so best to get new ones.
- Not sure if the rack boots will swap over, check it out I guess, if they do that's a nice bonus for you.
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
Answering my own questions for anyone who's interested: it seems the rack ends are interchangeable. One of teh ends on the power rack was identical to those on the manual rack (probably a wrong replacement at some stage). The other has a hole drilled in the inner end, presumably to lubricate the ball joint with PS fluid. In the interest of symmetry and because they seemed to be in good nick, I used both ends off the manual rack.
PS rack bolted up pretty easily once the sway bar was moved aside. THe biggest problem came from using parts of two steering columns - each splined section has a flat ground on it, which means it can only fit onto the unis one way. Turns out these flats didn't match up, so the steering wheel was turned 90deg when the rack was centred. Filed a new flat 90deg around and that was that.
Power rack uses different brackets to hold it onto the crossmember, but they bolt up to the same holes.
Boots are the same on power and manual racks.
EJ lines plug straight into the L series rack.
Test drove ok, no leaks, steering is very light, and no more fighting savage torque steer . Very worthwhile.
Dane
PS rack bolted up pretty easily once the sway bar was moved aside. THe biggest problem came from using parts of two steering columns - each splined section has a flat ground on it, which means it can only fit onto the unis one way. Turns out these flats didn't match up, so the steering wheel was turned 90deg when the rack was centred. Filed a new flat 90deg around and that was that.
Power rack uses different brackets to hold it onto the crossmember, but they bolt up to the same holes.
Boots are the same on power and manual racks.
EJ lines plug straight into the L series rack.
Test drove ok, no leaks, steering is very light, and no more fighting savage torque steer . Very worthwhile.
Dane