L Series EA to EJ

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Jun 26, 2012 1:08 pm

MTB92 wrote:finally got around to taking a few snaps with the new wheels as it stands ready for action :D

[ATTACH]3440[/ATTACH]
I think I've just wet my pants. We need a lifted scorpion L series gathering :twisted:

Looking very clean and tidy - and ready for the tough stuff!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Wed Jul 04, 2012 12:30 pm

took the EJ for its first offroad run on the weekend with some guys from work, and i am stoked its a hoot! :D there was a 4 runner, a lifted jackaroo, a colorado (which i was really impressed with) and the 2 L series (which everyone else was really impressed with).

the dark blue L series is a good mate of mine, made24x4 on here. his is EJ20, 2" lift. mine is EJ22, 1"strut lift. honestly, nothing seperates them.

tried out my sports camera strapped to the roo bar, really pleased with the video it takes. unfortunately i forgot to delete everything else off of it, so didn't get as much footage as i would have liked.

made a quick video of the day out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9pD26-pXok

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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:19 pm

A bit of an issue has come up over the last few months, where the battery is being drained. I have narrowed it down to the wiring associated with the alternator.

with the alternator all plugged in, everything else off or disconnected the battery is draining at about 3.2 amps. With the signals plug (ie, dash light plug on the alt) disconnected about 0.02 amps and with the main charging line unbolted 0.15 amps. I have tried 3 different alternators and all are doing pretty much the same thing, and are also charging fine as well.

it is strange that it has seemed to pop up well after finishing the conversion, so i am not convinced i have wired wrong. Any one got any ideas on what what be causing something like this?

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:27 pm

Have you got the round or square plug alternator?

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:43 pm

round plug.

I will try disconnecting the wire to the dash, apparently it is optional (although i would like it) and see if it makes any difference.
apparently all they need is the 12v ignition switch and the main current wires, and i cant see either of these losing power through them!

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:49 pm

Is the alternator still wired to the original EA wiring?

With my Vortex conversion, the permanent power feed at the alternator was changed to a "power only with accessories" feed. This was done as with the old wiring,(EA) the module in the EJ alternator is on permanently. (confused yet?)

Subarino is the man to explain this, where ever he is these days.

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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:10 pm

TOONGA wrote:Is the alternator still wired to the original EA wiring?

With my Vortex conversion, the permanent power feed at the alternator was changed to a "power only with accessories" feed. This was done as with the old wiring,(EA) the module in the EJ alternator is on permanently. (confused yet?)

Subarino is the man to explain this, where ever he is these days.

TOONGA
No Toonga, your on it! :D i think i came to the same conclusion about 2 mins ago. :)
I am getting a constant 12v to the EJ alt, when in fact i need ignition switched.

I only discovered the EJ needing the ignition switch about 10 mins ago reading through a different forum, so i thought i would check. This would have been fantastic to know a few months ago. though i am a bit confused as to why it worked fine for probably 3 months before i had issues.

Dunno, but with the 12v disconnected it certainly fixes the issue.

Cheers Toonga, confirmed my new theory. now to wire it all back in properly and see if it helps!

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:47 pm

not a problem, would be good if you can create a wirind diagram for the mod or even a link to the other site. as I need to do it to my brumby and I'm not sure where to take the ignition switched wiring from and which wire it needs to go to.

TOONGA
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PJ Gone but not forgotten
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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:57 pm

seems to have done the trick! :cool:

as for wiring, the 12v ignition switched just test with a test light and this goes to the yellow alt wire. the B/W alt wire is for the dash and is optional, but is to white and red (i think) on the l series, dunno about the brumby.

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:56 pm

Thus is why I hate wiring !! Glad you got it sorted Rob :cool:
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Sat Oct 27, 2012 9:52 pm

nothing much new. I made up a bracket for the spare wheel a while ago, which sits nicely in the back. i dont want a rear carrier and apart from being annoying i think its dangerous just put behind a front seat.

this is the finished product (sorry about the b/w pics):
[ATTACH]3639[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3640[/ATTACH]

probably not the most popular option on here, but i like it. secure and out of the way. looks fine as well, minimal cutting to the inside panel, but you cant see it with the wheel in the way anyway. i only have the 13 as a spare, it fits in well.
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Sat Oct 27, 2012 11:22 pm

Cool Rob.. I like it :)

I'm more for putting it outside so you can have more space for camping gear
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 12:05 am

RSR 555 wrote:Cool Rob.. I like it :)

I'm more for putting it outside so you can have more space for camping gear
cheers Paul :)

yeh, i think most people here will agree with that. most of my camping is with only 2 people and a couple of mountain bikes in the back, so find an extra obstacle to get to the boot a pain. I can still fit 2 assembled bikes + a couple of swags to seperate them and all bike + camping equipment in the back no worries.
plus the extra weight of a rear bumper + arms, relocating number plate and redoing lights and indicators it was just easier to throw it on the inside for me. i dont think most people will find it best this way.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:40 pm

There's also a captive nut in the floor near the LHS guard that will bolt a 27 inch tyre - all you need to do is find an appropriate bolt. I've used mine a few times.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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