MY / Brumby twin core Radiators

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:18 pm

Basically i want to run a bigger radiator twin core or even triple core in Bianca, See below for details. I am after a twin core Standard fitment. What has everyone used? Experiences?

The reason for this is she is currently towing alot, with tools etc in the back, not running hot, but sick of having the thermo on most of the time.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:00 pm

That's what Sunnie's the Brumby's got, as has the MY touring wagon out the back... I thought all MY's had the twin core radiators!

I'm going to be working on some cooling issues we've got at the moment, it's probably a combination of old thermostat and water pump, lack of air flow and a partially blocked radiator... Before this issue he was running really well even on hot days with a decent load.

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:59 am

I have got an AC condensor , a pair of 1/2" to 5/8" brass hose adaptors and the intention to tap into the line somewhere, shove the condensor in its usual spot ....

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:15 am

steptoe wrote:I have got an AC condensor , a pair of 1/2" to 5/8" brass hose adaptors and the intention to tap into the line somewhere, shove the condensor in its usual spot ....

Unfortunately mine already has A/C...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:48 pm

Pretty certain the standard radiator for MY is, as you state, twin core. The Ls are noticeably thinner lighter ?
I found the sedan MY 84 radiator I had was about 10 -r 15mm longer core than my Brumby.

Is it just the noise of the thermo that upsets you or the notion it is using battry power or gonna war out ? Whichever way - I understand.
You have AC so you'd have twin thermo fans too ? Working independent of each other circuit ?

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:29 pm

Yes twin large fans (ie not standard) wired to come on when hot or manual overide switch. Also it was my stuff up on my behave i went triple core...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:33 pm

Matt wrote:Also it was my stuff up on my behave i went triple core...

I got mine made by Aussie Desert Coolers - goes well in the L series but makes room between the front of the engine and the thermo fans very VERY tight with the EJ.

With the brumby it should be sweet, even a quad core should fit in there with enough room

Cheers

Bennie

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:37 pm

How much if you dont mind me asking? And any bad points?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:47 pm

Matt wrote:How much if you dont mind me asking? And any bad points?

3 or 4 years ago it was 450 for a brass/copper unit. Goes well no real downsides other than I picked mine up too early so I had to drill the holes for the mounting points of the stock fans to fit.

The other bad point for you is possibly getting a radiator to them as I had to supply one as a template, even then one of the end tanks wasn't shaped like the original plastic ones are and I had to do some hammering to the panel beside the headlight to make it fit. Nothing serious though.

Goes well in my book and I'm pretty happy with it!

They only offered a single or triple core, dunno why they don't do the double core as I would have probably gone for one of these to conserve some space for the thermo fans!

You could probably go for an aluminium unit at a cheaper rate but I went the copper/brass unit so I can repair it if need be when bush

Send them an enquiry email if you want, that's what I did.

The other option is to check out your local radiator joint and see what they can do for you

Cheers

Bennie

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:09 pm

Thanks might have to email away laters, worse thing is i only through out my old radiator a few months ago... but alloy i think will be better for me. Chances are i can quick steel it in the bush or stupid amount of water in it.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:55 am

Dragging this up in an effort to keep topic and not new thread.

"I have found my MY sedan auto FWD radiator is about 50mm longer than my MV 84 Brumby and 92 Brumby radiator" says me in one post ages ago.

Another, above disputes that 50 and claims 10 or 15mm ??

Now, here is some psecs I pulled from an old fashioned sales catalogue

the core size is given, so measured between tanks and bracketry....

A/M is auto or manual

SUB5362 A/M for 78 - 84 Leone 630 x 329x 32 (32 is twin core)
SUB5361 A/M for 78 - 94 Brumby 1600 (engine size query alert) 581x340x32
SUB1542 for Leone L Series I gather 688x360x16 (16 single core)

Ya gotta ask why the difference between MY sedan (FWD auto I had proved it) and Brumby. Why give a commercial application a shorter radiator?

Figures look like my 50mm longer claim in first was correct.

Is there a difference between the mounting points of an MY sedan/wagon and a MY Brumby? (MV for the pedants like myself)

Has anyone swapped them about?

I started on my EA82 in Brumby years ago with an L Series radiator in the front of a Brumby and had to bash a few recesses for the bottom corners .

Asked why not use the Brumby radiator before - my answer is:

1. Did not know EA82 would hose up to Brumby radiator and
2. only EA82 I'd seen live in a Brumby was with an L series style radiator

others said they did not need to recess nothin' to fit L series radiator in MY.

Only later did I realise I was playing with a Vortex radiator that came with an engine from Adam cruizingbrumby and it was a little longer than an L Series unit

Sorta wonder if anyone has tried a twin core as standard on MY in an L Series as an improvement ???

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:59 am

Don't really care about EJ swap radiators (yet) - that was just to suck you in from the link

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:31 am

i fitted a ea82t in a my some years ago and i used the my rad as the rad hoses i made to fit it was so eazy ..

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:53 pm

OK. One for L Series and one for MY. Thanks Phill

The MY body has the mounting posts, with rubbers, where the L has to be different it has post and rubbers on the radiator to make interchanging not so swift.

Tip would be to get some spare hoses and joiners 30mm ID I think

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:01 pm

Ripped the radiator out today, flushed her out with tap water, thought it was all clean and flowed nice

then laid it out flat, mixed up caustic soda flakes to manufacturers instructions 55g to litre of cold water, stirred until dissolved with eye mask on!

Poured it into radiator and let it sit for the manufacturers suggestion of 15 mins for dirty drains ,

whacked a tube tit into a 30mm welch plug, clamped it in one hose end, used another hose end to direct poop into bucket away from eyes, face, clothes ( well nearly

) and got the compressed air and BLAST blew a dark brown bucket of water out of the radiator, followed by stuff that looked just like fish food flakes - just kept coming.

After eight hours that bucket of caustic soda still dark brown, not settled as expected

Stuck it all back together without the reasonably new thermostat. Although not so hot today, both fans on could pull temp gauge down to 1/4 and quickly from about half.

Need to clean out reservoir of similar crud, flush it all again, test it, whack in another thermostat and new anti freeze or maybe just the anti corrosive cheap stuff I picked up from repco on special years ago.

Gotta be running better without the fish food. Also flushed the block.

phantomD · Post by **phantomD** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:16 pm

Responding to the original post, why go to the trouble if the standard cooling system is coping fine? Seems like a lot of effort to go to (JMHO) to eliminate fans more of the time...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:42 am

fans on all the time .... use power? may think like me - the fans not meant to run all the time so will they stuff up when one least needs the hassle , the constant whirr, whirr vibration may have also got on Matts wick.

I reckon some factory switches for the fans come in too high - well on my 84 Brum with AC removed does anyway, but noticed yesterday - the single round pin switch is in use only not the the two male blade switch next to it. I may have configured mine with incorrect switch previously. Best practice has been to hit the manual switch whenever stopped in traffic no matter what its temp is to keep it down, so thinking should hook in manual fans to brake light switch (and a diode so brake lights don't light up when I switch fans on manually

) More wire work would be to use a lower temp auto switching with resistor (like the ceramic jobbies on points coil)to slow speed down and bypass resistor when really need air pulling power