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Hey guys,

People may have seen my other post about putting an EJ20T into the L series now that the MPFI EA82 is presumably cactus, but what would be involved in taking the cheaper approach and putting an EA82T in?

Assuming it's possible to find a decent one still, I recal vaguely someone saying it uses the same ECU as the MPFI just needs another pin connected or something? Although I don't know how this would go if I used a Jap import rather than Aus delivered one??

Anyway I thought this may be a cheaper less complicated option, could just leave the standard FWD gearbox in if we treat things nicely, and get a bit of boost to play with. Obviously not in the same league as EJ20T job, but not in the same price bracket either is my guess!! If there isn't much in the way of wiring to do could probabaly do it ourselves I think. (Well my old man could!)

ea82t should be just drop in plug n play for you. I think the jap spec engines are better, but can they really be low kays?
And if you still have your original exhaust from the Y back, you should expect to upgrade that.
Did I read you only have FWD?
well then at least getting rear disk brakes should be easy and fairly cheap.

Don't forget you will need to get a turbo engine crossmember or mod the one you currently have for the turbo up-pipe.

Other than that I beleive the EA82MPFI -> EA82T swap is straight forward.

yup, done it.
I got a turbo crossmember to save rooting around with modifying the old one. a standard down pipe off the turbo, and still have the stock exhaust from there on (drinking straw size).
On advice from steve_rising_sun, I stripped the injector wiring loom off my engine, and transfered it to the new one (the japs cut through it right next to the plug anyway!!) throttle sensor plug may be different, same wires but different shape.
I also picked up an import turbo ecu, but am yet to use it. it is expecting to see a knock sensor (got the sensor, but haven't got a good look at the rest of the set up and control system that goes with it yet) and an over boost pressure switch (which could be dummy loaded to simulate it). when I tried it out it fault coded its arse off and refused to fire all cylinders. I need to look into this further, sounds like a summer project.
the existing mpfi ecu worked fine, although I am suspect on its fuel and ignition mapping so I have been fairly gentle on it, and kept the boost std in fear of blowing it.
ensure it is a 4 plug ecu, and it should work fine.
make sure your O2 sensor is working fine, and it will compensate to some degree. I have a Jaycar kit attached to mine, so I can see it doing its best to keep things under control.
the wiring loom diagram shows a turbo/non turbo discriminator wire, similar to a manual/auto discriminator, which apparantly is either open or closed circuit, depending on which one it is. I tried that out, but didn't notice any change....
Replace or recore the radiator, your going to be generating more heat load..

I'm sure I am about to get picked apart by others who have done it properly, get in touch with steve_rising_sun, he seems to have done just about everything you can think of to early subs.

good luck finding an engine though, before I spoke with steve, I could find only one in adelaide, for a price that made an EJ worth a look.

three plug ecu's are the same turbo to non ,just ground pin ? and its a turbo.the 4 plug's are different turbo to non, but you can run a turbo motor on the n/a ecu and loom you just change the throttle position sensor/throttle body.jaffa's has been running for a while, mine was going for 2 weeks before a headgasket went had nothing to do with the ecu but.

So how much boost are you running with the NA ecu?
and are you using turbo pistons or NA ones?


Cheers

turbo engine = turbo pistons.
I'm keeping the boost down until I have an intercooler and confirm that all is well sith the ecu. generally no more than 9 psi.