Thinking of manual to auto conversion

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Should the MUDRAT mobile be an Automatic?

You're a tool, drive like a man. For goodness sakes, you've got the best gearbox available!!
3
38%
You're a tool, drive like a man. For goodness sakes, you've got the best gearbox available!!
5
63%
 
Total votes: 8

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vincentvega
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Post by vincentvega » Mon Dec 26, 2005 9:41 am

steve_rising_sun wrote:If your not so worried about fuel use the converter from the EJ 16/18 for greater stall.
definately a good idea muddy - you want to be able to get some revs up to spin those tyres of yours! I would probably try the stock converter first though see if you think you need a higher stall (easy to do later if you dont mind dropping the box)
Because you wont have the reed swich in the dash you wont get lock up clutch, you can try a RX dash or use a manaual switch for cruising economy.
This would also mean your AWD wouldnt work either (if you wired it up - sounds likes steve's method of using a planetary box leaving it dosconnected is the go though) You definately want lock up torque converter, i think this could be fixed by using an aftermarket speed sensor pickup off a cruise control. just have to do some testing to find the right one
The drag/drive load to a turbo/non turbo box is the same, only the clutch packs are beefier. The TCU is different with shift points lower on the turbo to use the torque.
So if i was to fit a TT box into my NA lib using the NA TCU - the shift points would still be where they are now suited to the NA engine, and the box would feel the same if i used my NA stall? I would just end up with a very strong box with solid rear drive?

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vincentvega
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Post by vincentvega » Mon Dec 26, 2005 9:48 am

why cant you use the 4spd L shifter steve?

i wired up a 3spd EA82T auto box in a brumby once, and the wiring was very similar setup to the lib shifter. I am sure it could be wired up to drive the dash gear indicators properly (and therefore give you back your fault code readout)

even if you did use the lib shifter the wiring would have to be modified as you dont have the lib dash indicator globes to pull the inputs to the TCU up.

I have never had a good look at a 4spd L shifter though. How are they different?

holding the shifter in 1st doesn't lock the 4WD. I have driven round observing the drive to the dutyC solenoid in both a NA auto and turbo auto (not planetary types) and the shifter position has nothing to do with rear drive proprtion.

This isnt going to be a problem anyway as the NA computer wont be controlling rear lockup in the TT box... you jsut have a switch to select 4WD lock yourself

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Phizinza
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Post by Phizinza » Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:40 am

smoov wrote:
Image

you've obviously haven't seen an auto subaru perform offroad.
Ok, so I'm a "noob", and I haven't seen anything but manual subies offroad.

But when did I say anything about the performance of an auto offroad??? Please explain.
Owned - 89 Brumby, 83 Wagon, 83 Leone 4WD Sedan, 83 Touring Wagon, 99 Outback
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Post by Guest » Mon Dec 26, 2005 12:45 pm

Don't stress little buddy. 8)

Ok, so you're talking here about planetary and non-planitary boxes. How does an automatic work without planetary gears? Or am I on the total wrong track again?

I would like a front LSD, although the future use of Haultech traction control will reduce the necessity. Haultech is here by the way - a workmate of mine has fitted it to his '2002 Ford Courier and it is magical to watch.

I like the sound of a lockup torque converter. I have a friend that put a 327 and TH700R4 from a VN (no TCU?) in a WB Statesman, he used a switch on the dash to operate the converter lock. Just left it open around town, then on the highway just flicked it closed.

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Phizinza
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Post by Phizinza » Mon Dec 26, 2005 1:21 pm

Hey, I'm not stressing, just wondering how I managed to say autos are no good offroad and not know it. I can't even read it in my post now, checked it twice. (maybe that is stressing, checking it twice)

I'm not worried about being a "noob." Everyone starts somewhere. But the way I see it, if someone uses "noob" (not that I think smoov did) for an insalting perpose they must be denying they're own past. Unless I don't know about the few people that are born knowing how to strip down an engine.

As for all this auto stuff your on about. Good job, I have no idea as to the inners of an auto, but you all are making sence to me. I like the sounds of the clutch that you can lock, and unlock. But if you have the dollars, I still think what WJM on USMB is on about would be a wicked mod. Pitty how LSD's cost so much.

Isn't it strange how most subie owners on the forum have next to nothing to spend, yet forums with yota's and other trucks the people seem to have heeps of money to spend. Just shows you subies are good bang for bucks I reckon. Good luck with the swap if you do it.
Owned - 89 Brumby, 83 Wagon, 83 Leone 4WD Sedan, 83 Touring Wagon, 99 Outback
Own - 87 Brumby, 93 Liberty, 09 Forester
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steve_rising_sun
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Post by steve_rising_sun » Mon Dec 26, 2005 2:46 pm

Sorry when you said L I thought you ment 3sp. 4sp are rare in EA82s only late Vortex and the last of the Ls. I will ask Paul if he has one at Subareck. Libs are east to get.
The planetary we are refering too is in place of the 4WD/AWD rear clutch.
So instead of the TCU giving you a 'kind of' AWD you get the real thing.
A bit more drag but you can still lock up the gear set for 4WD. If you use the turbo converter with the box it should have a good stall, used to help the original engine get up steam.
If you use the ordinary box you can wire to manually lock up the rear clutch and give full line pressure.
Use my 'poor mans LSD'!
Steve

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MUDRAT
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Post by MUDRAT » Mon Dec 26, 2005 3:01 pm

I didn't say I was poor, only that I had a lot of expenses coming up! 8)
Monster Subaru sold to a good home!! Still a Subaru owner. Will try stay in the Ausubaru loop. Sorry :cool:

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Phizinza
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Post by Phizinza » Mon Dec 26, 2005 3:43 pm

Ok, maybe I'm wrong about subie drivers being poor. At least most don't seem to have the money for a good paint job. But who needs paint anyhow? :lol:

Are you sure its "your" poor mans LSD? I've read about it in two other places. I've even seen a setup with 4 hand brakes, one for each wheel. Ahh, we'll call it steves h/b setup! :lol:

So all this making center lockable diffs is so you can have AWD on road? I guess if your running offroad tyres and a EJ you would want that. I already can spin my wheels just with my EA81dc. Which isn't nice because these tyres wern't cheap. :?

I also think manuals are more fun. It may be harder to offroad with one, but you can feel good about yourself afterwards :)


You are very confusing mudrat... think your gonna keep this name for more then a week?
Owned - 89 Brumby, 83 Wagon, 83 Leone 4WD Sedan, 83 Touring Wagon, 99 Outback
Own - 87 Brumby, 93 Liberty, 09 Forester
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Outback bloke
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Post by Outback bloke » Tue Dec 27, 2005 7:26 am

Very interesting read. The boxes sound like they should turn out pretty good for offroad. I for one would not have an auto for offroad.

Sure they may be good for climbing and ease of use but they are no good for downhills, especially ones with a higher stall in them. No engine braking to talk off as far as I can see. With a manual you can stick it in 1st gear, push the air con button and have them crawl down hills at about 900rpm with no brakes. Now consider an auto with a 2200rpm stall in it. You know how fast that is coming downhill with out the use of brakes.

Also if you are thinking about going to a Liberty auto you need to consider the extra 50kgs and size of them. You will be doing tunnel mods to fit it in. The autos are a bloody big gearbox when compared to a manual.

They suck huge amounts of power compared to a manual box. So you do need to fit a higher rpm stall for them to be considered offroad. I have seen a lot of manuals and autos used offroad in Libertys in a lot of different situations and I am yet to be convinced that an auto is the way to go. There is far too many times I have seent he box let down the vehicle, rather than the vehicle not be capable of what they were trying to do to it.

If you are thinking about spending a few bucks on an auto box, then I say buy a twin turbo one, pull the 4.444 diff out of it (to put in your manual) and throw the rest away.

This is the Subaru boxes that I am talking about. Take a different bigger type 4wd with a seperate transfer case and it is a different story.

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MUDRAT
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Post by MUDRAT » Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:33 am

That's true, I hadn't thought about the downhill aspect.

Will their be any gearbox clearance problems with my 4" lift though?
Monster Subaru sold to a good home!! Still a Subaru owner. Will try stay in the Ausubaru loop. Sorry :cool:

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Outback bloke
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Post by Outback bloke » Tue Dec 27, 2005 6:55 pm

We tried to put an EJ auto box into a Brumby with 3" blocks on the gearbox mounts and it wouldn't fit. Yours being an L with the same blocks would be very close due to the larger tunnel. Porta-power or sledgy would see it in there.

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steve_rising_sun
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Post by steve_rising_sun » Tue Dec 27, 2005 7:05 pm

Poor old subies have no engine/low range braking to speak of, no matter what trans. However we are not driving 2 ton monsters [.....well at the moment I am] My autos alway blitzed the manuals except at the bowser.
They do need a good power to weight ratio to shine. EJ22 in a L sedan will rule. M113 carriers and Leopards are also autos, however that is a silly point.
Steve
You should make it easily with a lift kit, however these boxes are big.

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Outback bloke
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Post by Outback bloke » Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:14 pm

Poor old subies have no engine/low range braking to speak of, no matter what trans.
Exactly why I said to put the air-con on. Increbible the difference it makes to engine braking, in a manual any way.

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MUDRAT
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Post by MUDRAT » Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:49 pm

If you cast your mind back it was actually me that came up with that idea...
Monster Subaru sold to a good home!! Still a Subaru owner. Will try stay in the Ausubaru loop. Sorry :cool:

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