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Much like the most recent discussion but Subie oriented. In trying to grub together Lturbos old EA82T to shove in Project Cheap Grief while I stuff around with its donk head problem I encounter the turbo cross over pipe turbo flange studs . Two are stuffed. I manage to remove one and stuff its flange thread, the other snapped off.

Major problem encountered so far is the hardness of the flange and old stud combined. My new drill bits struggle and then stop.

Has anyone been able to tap and helicoil these babies? Or for those (like Suparoo) that have modded pipes for different turbos - did youse have to redrill and tap.

I have seen extra tough drill bits for jobs like this - any recommendations?

Sorry i cant help, cos i bought a new EJ turbo flange with the threads already cut in it.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUBARU-WRX-STI-T ... T-KIT-TD04

Did you heat it up before you tried to undo them?

I guess if you wanted to drill it out, grab some inox and soak it for a few days, then buy a good quality drill bit, heat it up (the flange, not the drill bit), and drill it slowly with a press drill, but make sure you use a lubricant to protect the tip of your drill bit.

Got some success with one hole, for the third turbo stud. Managed to drill it with my cheap as set of drill bits, made in China, coated with gold colour, in an orange box of 25 bits for $35. Made my $110 Sutton Viper bits look like crap and my other Sutton drill bits too!

Tapping a new thread was murder and each time I countered the tap to cut back it felt as if it was stuck and each time thought I was gonna break my recoil tap. Used the Subaru recommended CRC 556. Came to mind that if the exhaust tube is regarded as being stainless, so too the flange with a less amount of carbon to 'lubricate' things.

The next one is the bolt for the head bracket might just miss out for temporary use.

steptoe wrote: The next one is the bolt for the head bracket might just miss out for temporary use.

I never re-fitted my bracket, and its been fine