Aftermarket EA82T Manifold

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nncoolg
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Post by nncoolg » Mon Aug 31, 2009 9:01 pm

Well, unfortunately I am without a scanner at the moment, as we just moved, but I took some photos of my photos from about 8years ago, when I made a set. They were made out of 2 1/4" mild, press bent, as mandrel bends were unherd of in my lil' town. It made such a huge difference, as did the ones I made for my EJ20TT. Headers are the place to start on a turbo in my opinion.

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Gannon
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW

Post by Gannon » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:09 pm

Very nice!

What ever happened to it?
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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nncoolg
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Posts: 725
Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:05 am
Location: Almost Sth. QLD

Post by nncoolg » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:17 pm

It enjoyed a good life making loads of torque, and was sold on the car. When I make one for my Vortex when she's on the road, I will make a Splitter to go into each exhaust port, then run 2 x 1 1/2" mandrel pipes from each head. That works well for the EJ's.

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discopotato03
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Post by discopotato03 » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:43 pm

I found a couple of good threads at USMB but can't access that site from this "foreign computer" .

There are differing opinions on pipe size and some think the TWE's healthy tubes are fine .

From what people say the small inner tube diameters on the factory appear to be ~ the 1 1/4 to 1 3/8" size (33-37mm) .
I guess I'll have to sit down and work out the cross sectional areas to have a handle on the various tube diameters vs area .
What makes it hard is the two adjacent cylinders sharing the same port and engine pipe and trying to work out an ideal tube ID .

There is a possibility that the Techworks header gets away with slightly larger diameter tubes by having the two engine pipes merge just below the turbos mounting flange .
The downside is having two tubes feeding up through the hole in the cross member and avoiding things like power steering lines .
It would be a pain but if a header was fabbed with flange joints before the collector the engine pipes could be made in an alternate size if the first attemp wasn't right . I was thinking along the lines of flange plates like my old Bluebird used to have to join its twin down pipes off the bottom of its cast iron exhaust manifold , three nuts and bolts could hold it together and it would mean the engines pipes could be individually removed to fix blown gaskets or to remove a head without pulling the whole header . Could possibly unbolt it and remove the turbo upwards complete with the detached collector .

Thoughts ?

Cheers A .

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