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Hey all.

A few questions i have about exhausts on the L series:

The cat is the muffler looking bit in join of the Y pipe. Correct?

Is the next muffler looking bit a resonator and can these clog up?

I'm looking at an exhaust replacement, the whole lot. What is the best size to go for the EA82 for good performance on and off road (power/torque) and for a bit of a rumbling note?

Last but not least, my exhaust is okay at the moment, should i wait til i've got the lift kit on before having the exhaust done or is there a way of having the exhaust done now with the ability to modify it for the lift kit (bring it closer to the body)?

Any opinions/experiences welcome.

Cheers

Bennie

1. yes, the cat is the bit just after the headers.

2. not sure if the resonator can clog up(doubt it)

3. i'd crank out a 2 1/4in cat back system for the EA82(carby) not sure about turbo, perhaps a 2 1/2in.

4. you will have to get it modified if you lift the car, it'll sit way to low, and maybe even rub the tailshaft. Its easy for an exhasut place to modify it, but probably best to wait for your liftkit, then do it.

you want a strait through sports muffler to get the best note. My wagon's running a 2.5in cat-back strait through sports system at the moment and it sounds sweet.

alex

I earlier said i was beginning to hate my 2.5 inch exhaust on the EA82T - I love it now !! has a crossover getting in the way of gearbox drop with a long doggy along the tailshaft LHS then a sports muffler at the rear. Good ground clearance and a bend of the floor clears the doggy. bit tight over the rear sway bar

El_Freddo wrote:Hey all.

Last but not least, my exhaust is okay at the moment, should i wait til i've got the lift kit on before having the exhaust done or is there a way of having the exhaust done now with the ability to modify it for the lift kit (bring it closer to the body)?
Bennie

I would certainly wait till the liftkit has been fitted and you have played around and got a good bash plate setup! Remember to be careful when asking to have you system mounted close to you body as you will find that there is a lot of tricky bends and weight in the system that make it hard to judge the movement and accommodate for this. To the installer they might think its fine and mounted all close to your bodywork but once you have taken it off road and start bumping around they will move around in the mounts majority of the time and start to rattle and foul on the body work. Making for really annoying times.
My 2cents

Cheers guys,

Good point 4MUFF. Would a flexible joint in there help at all or just add to the cost without the desired effect?

And I just read that Sven 2 had 2 hot dogs on his exhaust and no muffler. I'd love to have heard that!

Cheers

Bennie

flexie joint might help, would bump up the price $80 odd bucks.

I found out the best way to bend the exhaust in under the body, is to drive over a rock that's much larger than the car can drive over. However you may need to replace your tailshaft after this modification

stinky wrote:I found out the best way to bend the exhaust in under the body, is to drive over a rock that's much larger than the car can drive over. However you may need to replace your tailshaft after this modification

I did something similar to this which is what caused the problem of the exhaust not sealing at the engine. Just after doing my "fuel tank mod" i had to gun it up the hill as crawling i lost traction. While gunning it the car jumped around a bit and hit something nasty underneath the car.

Currently i'm using aluminum tape (used on aircrafts) rolled on itself as my engine exhaust manifold gaskets. I found the trick is to make them thick so they crush down creating a good seal. Warm the engine up, cool it down, re-torque the nuts then check them again a week later.

I'm loving the quiet car again, but gotta watch my revs, they've climbed up to 5 grand without me noticing

Dad also had a good idea, bolt it all up, then heat the exhaust a bit after the engine til its red hot, then tighten the bolts up - idea being that this will line up the exhaust to the exhaust ports properly.

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:Dad also had a good idea, bolt it all up, then heat the exhaust a bit after the engine til its red hot, then tighten the bolts up - idea being that this will line up the exhaust to the exhaust ports properly.

Bad idea. Subaru heads are all alloy. The exhaust is steel.
The both expand & contract at different temperatures.

I you do it, it will crack the head studs out of the head!

We weren't thinking that close to the engine but i guess its still something to consider.

Cheers

Bennie