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Just been into partly finished replacement of a rear wheel bearing on a spare hub for my Brumby. The federal mogul bearing assy was a unique replacement in that not just two normal taper bearings and their cones, but a one piece spacer with bearing cones finished in each end so bearing access is from each outer rather than the original outer bearing cone is pressed in first.

The taper of these bearings faces opposite to original.
An easy enough press in spacer/cone combo and then just grease up bearings and fit from the outside. Maybe more when task is finished

Never seen the one piece outer shell bearings for the MY or L.Series models (only the EJ series models), would be good to know they go. Does the new bearing come with the inner sleave to stop the 2 bearings being done up too tight? as I can't see how you could stop the drum from becoming loose??

Picture this ...a 58.02mm OD sleeve/ pipe about 65mm long, maybe 70mm. It has cone surfaces for the bearings to run against, the bearing rollers in their cages are on a short spacer of their own each that must but up against each other in the centre.Packaged with a plasric sleeve in the centre holding it all together so's ya don't drop the best bits when unwrapping.

Sounds similar to the Impreza (GC) and Foz (SF) model rear bearings. Wonder if they are better than the original design?

better price and it should give better access to the normally last bearing to come out for regrease as it becomes a normal sort of twin bearing hub where each cone points in

pics would help eh ?

I've got them in the rear of Ruby Scoo for sometime now. Pressing the whole one piece case in can be difficult. I've kept the old spacer piece to be used to hammer the new casing in.

There are some pics in my build thread ages ago. I'll upload some later next week when I'm on the computer again

As for serviceability I'm not sure if they're any better to the old design. The trick is to make sure the seals are seated properly and not damaged - I had to replace a set prematurely due to a dud seal instillation

I don't see how the taper is opposite unless someone managed to fit the older style in backwards! And I'm sure the L's and MY's are the same but I've not needed to do an MY bearing set yet.

Cheers

Bennie

When I got the bearings they were listed for both MY and L 4WD rear.

both inner and outer seals are the same for the two models. I had the inners in stock, the outers are on order, and yep the original spacer is 0.5mm lesser OD than the pres fit sleeve and is good to help get the outer sleeve home- protecting the thread inside for the retainer

I'll have to look at diagrams, maybe last dude who did the bearings reversed things on reassembly

a pic will help



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Was scared off years ago by doing this very hub with a new bearing price at trade - $175. A $50 doantion to a spares recycling industry bought me another eight years or so before facing the lock ring demons I imagined. Now, facing those demons with this more affordable bearing option out of a care assistance package from the US last year or year before

Your correct Jonno.. Pics did help

So when the inner races are in their correct position the 2 inner sleeve pieces touch?

RSR 555 wrote: So when the inner races are in their correct position the 2 inner sleeve pieces touch?

Not wrong about pics helping brain

I won't be in there to find out, but my guess is when they touch everything will be in correct position.

all went well on the assembly ...until I posted up a new thread on the lock ring and how tight ? 221Nm ?


^^^^^^^^^ no responses , must have been a silly question ?

My torque wrench will go close but will need to fit it into beast first me thinks to get it up there then remember to clock the ring in place

221Nm sounds high but as long as it's done up tight then you'll be fine. I use a specially designed/made tool and never done them to a torque setting... unless RFT is a torque setting.

I remember reading somewhere it's 196 foot pound!

So I've got a 3/4 drive breaker bar that I jump on a few times just for good measure. Never had an issue. But I do remember Andrew T stripping the thread off a shaft axle - resulting in needing another shaft!

Cheers

Bennie

the question was for the inner lock ring - Bennie, the thing you made a tool for and shared its appearanc with us for all to copy, now I am trying to picture how you jump on anything to get inner lock ring that tight when it is either a loose swing arm on the ground or fixed in the car - can you do a youtube of it or did you read my question as being the outer 36mm nut

steptoe wrote:the question was for the inner lock ring - Bennie, the thing you made a tool for and shared its appearanc with us for all to copy, now I am trying to picture how you jump on anything to get inner lock ring that tight when it is either a loose swing arm on the ground or fixed in the car - can you do a youtube of it or did you read my question as being the outer 36mm nut

Ah yeah I follow you now! I screw it up as tight as I physically can with a very big shifter then use a BFH to "tap it home" with two hits just to make sure.

Cheers

Bennie

shoulder tight, then some ..... that is what mine will get in car, ta Bennie