Dann's 92 Subaru L Series Build

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:55 am

are you sure you put the strut blocks back in the right way?

And when you put it all back together, did the struts get pushed in as far as they could go before the bolts were tightened up?

TOONGA

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:58 pm

RSR 555 wrote:All of my lift kits have the correct camber offset built into them but they don't have any extra abilty to adjust that whilst in the car. I do use an aftermarket camber adjustment kit when there are major differences. This allows for finer adjustments when doing laser alignments but I've only had this issue on later models (Impreza and Forester).

What camber adjustment kit do you use?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:44 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Not sure how to take this as it sounds double dutch to me but doubt you'd be questioning my work.

No Paul, not questioning your work. I'm sorry that it reads ambiguously - but it was meant to say that if the blocks were built by you that it would have the adjustment built in already, which means there's something else at play here.

guyph_01 wrote:Badly in need of a rear wheel carrier.....! I just got a Mig welder for free. Not sure yet if it works. If it does we can start and only need to rent out a bottle:)

I reckon you'll fall over when you find out how much a bottle is to rent, especially if you're still working on a uni shoe string budget!

The only other thing I can suggest is that you move the car down the driveway then back again and see if there's any change. If not, I'd loosen the hub retaining bolts on the top of the hub that holds the strut, hopefully it will move, do them back up then move it back up and down the drive way to help it settle and see what the difference is.

If that doesn't do the trick I'd start looking at the struts - are they on the correct side? I believe that the 2wd and 4wd's had their struts on opposite sides for some reason - or I could be confusing the MY's with the L's. Paul will know for sure.

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:52 pm

TOONGA wrote: And when you put it all back together, did the struts get pushed in as far as they could go before the bolts were tightened up?
TOONGA

reading this ambiguity of mine, I thought I would show you what I did to PJ to give me near negative camber.

I don't endorse this as a fix, and I'm sure others will say NO NO NO but it does push the strut top in towards the engine to give less positive camber.

wrong word used negative replace with positive please

remember if you do this to have the weight of the car supported, all you want to do is move the strut inward not lift the car by the hub, remember it is the hub not the disc.

TOONGA

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 3:21 pm

TOONGA wrote:reading this ambiguity of mine, I thought I would show you what I did to PJ to give me near negative camber.

I don't endorse this as a fix, and I'm sure others will say NO NO NO but it does push the strut top in towards the engine to give less negative camber.

remember if you do this to have the weight of the car supported, all you want to do is move the strut inward not lift the car by the hub, remember it is the hub not the disc.

TOONGA

I think you mean less positive camber.

How does the strut top move? Are the holes slotted or just a loose fit?

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 3:48 pm

yes thats correct less positive camber and well spotted thank you.
Having 3 children fighting in the background while I typed that, made for an interesting moment.

the holes are slightly bigger (not slotted) making a loose fit, as if they were the exact same size as the bolts, you could imagine how much fun it would be to get the struts out.

While it isn't an ideal fix it does make a difference.

and I will go back and edit that post teacher style

TOONGA

Dann · Post by **Dann** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:09 pm

guyph_01 wrote:Badly in need of a rear wheel carrier.....! I just got a Mig welder for free. Not sure yet if it works. If it does we can start and only need to rent out a bottle:)

haha yeah I'm thinking that too its two plain at the moment

RSR 555 wrote:It does appear that something else is off.. maybe drive down next weekend (14/15th) and I'll have a quick look.

does sound like a good idea, I might contact you sometime closer to then, i'll have a play around this weekend and see what happen and see how many other thing i manage to break lol

TOONGA wrote:reading this ambiguity of mine, I thought I would show you what I did to PJ to give me near negative camber.

remember if you do this to have the weight of the car supported, all you want to do is move the strut inward not lift the car by the hub, remember it is the hub not the disc.

TOONGA

did anyone else look at jules jack and think tractor straight away haha, but yeah i see what you illustrating there though

El_Freddo wrote:
The only other thing I can suggest is that you move the car down the driveway then back again and see if there's any change. If not, I'd loosen the hub retaining bolts on the top of the hub that holds the strut, hopefully it will move, do them back up then move it back up and down the drive way to help it settle and see what the difference is.

If that doesn't do the trick I'd start looking at the struts - are they on the correct side? I believe that the 2wd and 4wd's had their struts on opposite sides for some reason - or I could be confusing the MY's with the L's. Paul will know for sure.

Cheers

Bennie

Bennie i've been driving like this for the past week casue i need my car for work and yeah hasn't settled, i thought when i first put the springs in it just had to settle alittle but its still like this :S like i sed i'll have a play around with it on the weekend and see what i can do, i've got a few thing in mind

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 3:09 pm

Dann wrote:Bennie i've been driving like this for the past week casue i need my car for work and yeah hasn't settled

Yeah, usually for the suspension to settle after having the front end off the ground you just need to roll forward or backward (or both) for a short distance for the front track width to return to normal...

Hopefully this will be an easy fix once you've checked this out over the weekend

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:27 pm

Wouldn't recommend you use the TOONGA method.. could cause more damage. I'd like to think the spring weight is too high. We can change the offset on the top struts blocks if we have too. No stress.

Dann · Post by **Dann** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:46 pm

So I played around with my suspension yesterday, it's looking way better than before, still not happy with it though so I might pop down to yours paul sometime soon.,
On another note was down in ozzie park this morning and looking at quote prices for tires, after much explaining about what i want the salesmen gave me quotes around $230 per tires fitted, i'm not to happy with that too,

And does anyone have a spare working touring wagon fuel pump they would like to palm off???

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:48 pm

Dann wrote:So I played around with my suspension yesterday, it's looking way better than before, still not happy with it though so I might pop down to yours paul sometime soon.

No problemo

Call me on Friday

Dann wrote:And does anyone have a spare working touring wagon fuel pump they would like to palm off???

Just grab yourself a VL commodore pump

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:39 pm

Any news on the fixes Dann?

And any pics of the beast out and about recently?

I'm just digging for more inspiration/motivation to finish off my little project and to get some ideas on where I should go first.

Cheers

Bennie

Dann · Post by **Dann** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:01 pm

wow havent been in foe ages haha,
work takes it out of you lol,
anyway not much as changed, in fact it's sad to say everythings been going down hill with the little soob, small things but they all add up, such as interior lights disappeared for awhile until i got the energy reacently to fix them(working

) wind screen wipers only have one setting now (middle setting) and if i turn them off they dont return back to normal position... Help?
wiring still falling out on my feet :S fixing that this weekend, back speakers fell off because i had them in the plastic now have checker plate there will post pics soon, and the major thing is the back middle bushes on the rear suspension have gone causing my back wheels to leen inwards,

Other than all those little things, loving the old girl still, haven't done much off-roading lately, maybe the occasional trip to Dwellingup or two rocks for an over nighter, as i sed before works been taking all my time, if i haven't mentioned before I've started my electrical apprenticeship so far 7 months in and still loving it,

anyway till next time :P

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 8:33 am

Yer wipers don't park. If it was an MY you could look under the dash for a yellow loop plugged in as I know unplug that and you lose park. On L's think they all have they light grey plastic box attached to the apron near your knees marked intermittent relay control or the like ( see who has got intermittent wiper post ) if this is not plugged in or rooted may be your park problem, or an earth connection somewhere.

pzs · Post by **pzs** » Sat Jan 04, 2014 9:11 am

What was the fix for your camber prblem

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 4:42 pm

pzs wrote:What was the fix for your camber prblem

I fixed mine by messing around with the 3 bolts on the plate that holds the swivel arm that's also the outer bush. I can't remember which way to go, but all you do is loosen the bolts, twist the hub one way or the other, tighten bolts, put wheel back on then drop on ground. Roll forward to settle it and see what you reckon.

If it's not right go back and do it again. It took me about a half hour to get mine from all the way from the most possible positive camber to almost dead straight on no camber on both sides.

That should sort it for you

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 1:40 pm

I'd also recommend loosing off the 3 bolts on the arm just behind the rear tyre, then with the weight of the car on the wheels, tighten the bolts back up.

t.ridden · Post by **t.ridden** » Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:49 pm

Hi Dann,
Just wondering, did you use an L series, Aluminium core radiator with thermo fans for your conversion?
Also, how did you get the exhaust to work? Liberty headers to custom catback?
Just gathering parts and info for my EJ swap coming in the next few months

Cheers,
Tom

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 9:33 am

Hi Tom, there are talks of using an Nissan Pulsar N13 radiator, as it has similar dimensions and correct inlet/outlet sizes for the EJ engine. I have not fitted one myself but will give it a go on the next conversion. I have in the past just used the L.Series replacement aluminium radiator and then just adjusted the hoses to fit the EJ engine.

As for the fans, I'd go a couple of these 10" fans and make up some holding straps. I can show you my radiator setup in my L.Series with EJ setup
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Universal ... 485f7e6456

Dann · Post by **Dann** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 11:40 am

hey tom I used an aluminum l series radiator single core from memory with two 10 inch thermo fans one at the front and one behind because of space issues, as for the exhaust I used the headers that came with the engine and custom 2.5 inch exhaust back