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The engagement point often moves in my Legacy (has brand new clutch when I converted it to 5MT. I think it's issues with the hydraulic master or slave cylinder myself but haven't really tried troubleshooting it.

Jerking on acceleration on/off or changing gears

Mate my car is cronic for this since installing my dual range.

think about the number of joints in your driveline, and how wear in any of them cumulatively adds up to a shitload of driveline slop.

My tailshaft seems tight, so i put mine down to worn joints in the driveshafts, and backlash in the diffs. the joints have done near on 250k, 150k at increased angles, so its not surprising they are sloppy.

I definitely agree it makes the car horrible to drive. I can drive around it, but if anyone else drives the car its jerking like crazy..

I have heard RS liberty guys saying they never really get rid of it until they fit a complete R180 driveline, ie replace all teh shafts, tailshaft, diffs etc with far lower km components

Well at least I'm not the only one. Makes me feel like a shit drivers until I get in a different manual and I'm reminded how sensitive my car is to drive.

Another one is on a slight down hill when holding the accelerator very lightly past engine breaking my car will also go into an jerking/bunny hop thing that gets worse on each pulse. Needs foot to the floor or clutch in/out to stop it.

Thought it could be the 40mm tranny lift blocks and 50mm engine ones throwing the drive shaft joints out of alignment slightly.

I've had 2 diffs in my car, fresh uni's in the driveshaft and rebuilt front and rear cv joints (all at once!) with no noticeable change, so I've ruled those out.

Yep same issue here! I have nearly all the same symptoms.
Very jerky in stop go traffic. Especially if in 2nd gear trying to idle along (1000-2000rpm). The car bucks as if yoir bunny hopping it!.

I'm going to try one of these

http://www.sumoparts.com/TSK1-Transmiss ... _p_11.html

I'm In a similar boat where I am considering getting rid of the car as its that annoying. However I'm hoping this with my new clutch kit, gearbox solve it!

Part number for the bolt on snout that goes on the dual range tranny is 35208AA041. About $180 (international) - 250 (local).

Throw out bearing part number for my car is 35208AA041. Should work as the sleeve kit replacement number is same as my throw out bearing.

Apparently you need to split the casing to pull out that bolt on snout, so not an easy replacement.

Reading there are a few other reasons for shudder. Including:

"One reason that might come to mind is that the older one isn't sufficient, which keeps the clutch from mating smoothly and leads to hotspots on the flywheel. Soon the clutch starts skipping on the raised hotspots and the only solution is a new clutch face, resurfacing the flywheel, and hopefully (if you are smart) and new pressure plate."

Could be an issue for me since I have a stock gen1 2.2 pressure plate, and others who have upgraded their motor but not the clutch. Still sticky/noisey pedal classic snout wear symptom.

I had a problem with my Forrie bucking in stop/go traffic, but it was the transition between closed throttle idling along and just opening the throttle. I fixed it by adjusting the throttle stop to hold the throttle plate slightly open, but not too far that the IACV couldn't control the idle speed. It did take a bit of time for the computer to re-adjust the idle speed, and I did try it in small steps so it took a few goes.

This may or may not be the same problem as yours but it won't cost anything to try.

What do tou mean by throttle stop?

the screw on the side of the throttle body that the throttle linkage rests on when the car is idling.

If you adjust the throttle stop screw you also need to adjust the throttle position sensor

Cheers

Bennie

TPS is not adjustable on the Foz, but it is on the G1 Lib.

Maybe that's why it worked for me.

Interesting... Will try it, thanks guys.

Tried adjusting throttle with some success. Using my scangauge I noticed that i get a hesitation on the change from open/closed loop which is very rough. Really pissing me off as between the front LSD slipping, open/closed loop transition, and the stuff listed above all of which can combined or individually cause the whole car to buck. Excess oil burning maybe fouled up my O2 sensors causing shitty loop changes??????????????????????????? Old girl really needs some TLC to get back to smooth operation!

Venom wrote:Old girl really needs some TLC to get back to smooth operation!

You'll get there mate - just stick with it even though you're ready to burn the thing.

If you sell it or burn it you'll only end up regretting it!

Cheers

Bennie

New neutral position switch installed yesterday, attacked the O2 sensor with a blow torch to clean them up, fitted a second hand vehicle speed sensor... codes all gone and she's running smoother now. I've had P1507 (IACV) popping up constantly for a few weeks sending the car into limp mode. Had this problem before and new O2 sensors fixed it (go figure?). Pretty happy the speedo odo and cruise control are back, the clutch is still heavy and sticky but the bucking is easier to manage with the car running properly.

H6 in the Carport/Workshop


Fuel rails removed, at this stage I was planning on removing the heads...


Coolant outlets, look pretty immaculate to me.




A light varnish, nothing I'm worried about. No sludge, which is great.






Shiny! I did want to paint these, but it was way too cold. Either lime green or a brembo gold.

New iridium plugs anti siezed and ready to go in. Man these things are expensive.


LIC half moon plugs in. Kinda sexy. Was uncertain about installing without the valve cover going on after, but I noticed the old half moons weren't seated properly and protruded into the rubber gasket potentially causing a leak. This way they are seated flush and square to the gasket surface, and i could remove the excess sealant.


Took a whole. ****ing. day. to clean the covers and gasket surfaces for just the timing chain cover and valve covers. Looking at this help me decide not to touch the heads. Plus not in a particularly friendly work environment for it (sandy). Chain tension seems really good as soon as the motor turns over.


Probably the narrowest spot for the fuji bond gasket. I suspect this is the source of the leak on mine. Most of the timing chain cover gasket surface has a chamfer on the inner edge, so I think it beads between that and the flat surface on the motor to seal it. There's virtually none of the mating surface itself. However no chamfer at this spot, so i filed a smallish one into the cover here to help seal it.


No photo of it but I siliconed and reinstalled the timing chain cover. Just imagine a lot of three bond, like, a lot.

Valve clearances measured. Intake clearances all fall about .01 to .02mm within specs (.20mm +.04mm/-.06mm).

Exhaust are all out of spec, one by about .08mm but most .05mm too tight. Plan is to adjust the specs of all of them to get to the maximum side of factory specs, as the clearances will get smaller over time. That should give me the most life before they need to be touched.

LIME GREEN! LIME GREEN..! Er, Lime green would look Greg I reckon mate!

That is one beast of an engine sitting there. Those coolant passages look schmick! Do you know if you'll need to do the manditory replacement of the water pump - you don't want to find out after its back in the vehicle! I know you've already got the timing cover back on but it'd be worth removing now than later...

And just look at all of those bolt holes in the timing cover - looks insane (and lots of fun to fit/remove )

Cheers

Bennie

LIME GREEN +1

Amazing engine, by the way...

That mid boot spoiler really looks good/suits the lifted lib.
I still need convincing for it on street/lowered libs.

Bumpty wrote:That mid boot spoiler really looks good/suits the lifted lib.
I still need convincing for it on street/lowered libs.

Thanks mate, pretty happy with how it turned out.

Haha, lime green it is Not sure what the replacement interval on the water pump is but it won't be for a while. Noticed one of the chains slack off when the tensioner lost oil pressure. Supposed to be a worm gear in there to maintain it, so it obviously needs replacing. The cover will have to come off again atleast i know what I'm doing the second time