
1983 Touring Wagon, Granpa spec.
The project has started tigger. I will need to wait for a mate to bring around the hoist. Who knows how long that will be. But anyway I have started dis assembling parts and will start degreasing and painting what I can.. I really don't intend on doing a complete rebuild. But at the moment I will just be doing the heads a carby rebuild, all new hoses obviously and tidying up. It's only done 140 ks so I honestly don't think it needs much more at the moment. Will keep youse updated.
Cheers
Cheers
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Hey guys I know it's not a major thing but do youse recommend I put an electronic distributor on to replace the stock ea81 one. Should I get a second handy from a later model? Or a new one. What fits? Also while I am doing the heads is there anything else I should be checking or upgrading to improve the motor. Yes the carby is getting rebuilt. I'm sorry I know this has all been covered before but would appreciate any tips. I've read alot of the build threads and have learnt alot. Cheers guys!!
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- Location: Adelaide
Hmm is your wagon not already electronic dizzy? The points based has a ballast resistor on the coil, electronic has no resistor. I did the swap on my ute from points to electronic and there's no difference performance wise, but not having any points in the dizzy to short themselves out is a big bonus
Solved alot of issues for me.
If you get an electronic dizzy from a parts car it is a straight swap but you need a new coil, a no-resistor type. I believe you can adapt an L series dizzy to fit quite easily but there's some mods required, there's a how to thread around here somewhere.

If you get an electronic dizzy from a parts car it is a straight swap but you need a new coil, a no-resistor type. I believe you can adapt an L series dizzy to fit quite easily but there's some mods required, there's a how to thread around here somewhere.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end

-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end

Awesome car, it looks fantastic. I totally love the old originals in excellent condition, no matter what the make. Not many exist for the Subarus, i think they're too much of a cheap uni student type car to get looked after properly. If you ever think of selling it then please let me know, it'd be worth a flight to SA for me 
If your points are working fine then i wouldn't bother, it won't be a noticeable difference. The bushes in those distributors if its original are probably on their way out if not worn already. Probably worth checking. So picking up a second hand electronic one is problematic because it'll probably wear out pretty quickly too, if you can even find one that's not already worn. I bought a re-manufactured one from the US. Alternatively get a s/h one and get it rebuilt.
Or you can do a points to electronic conversion to your current dizzy like the CraneCams Fireball setup, but it's cheaper to get a factory electronic one and it's is just as good.

If your points are working fine then i wouldn't bother, it won't be a noticeable difference. The bushes in those distributors if its original are probably on their way out if not worn already. Probably worth checking. So picking up a second hand electronic one is problematic because it'll probably wear out pretty quickly too, if you can even find one that's not already worn. I bought a re-manufactured one from the US. Alternatively get a s/h one and get it rebuilt.
Or you can do a points to electronic conversion to your current dizzy like the CraneCams Fireball setup, but it's cheaper to get a factory electronic one and it's is just as good.
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Yeah im yet to see one in Australia up for sale or online in better condition so I'm stoked with this one. Don't worry ausubaru members will get the first chance to buy before anyone else does if it ever goes for sale. I can't see myself selling it especially now I'm putting all this money on restoring the engine and freshening it up. I doubt ill ever get my money back for it. The bonus also its never seen a dirt road
... The plan once its completed will just be a weekend get about on a nice sunny day.. It won't see a rainy day again if I can help it. Haven't found any rust and I plan to keep it that way
thanks for the info about the dizzy too venom.
Cheers


Cheers
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So the carb will be dropped off this week to get rebuilt. Can anyone tell me if I can still get genuine subaru headgaskets and rocker cover gaskets and so on. I've heard that's the way to go. It's about that time I start looking into this. Would a local subaru dealer be able to help me with this or has anyone have a website I can order from?
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Thanks James but are they any good? Sounds awfully cheap, and head gaskets is not something you want to go cheap on. I don't want to have a leaking gasket in a years time. I've heard from other forums that the only way to go is fel-pro gaskets or oem ones. But I didn't think they still made oem ones?
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I used these
http://www.precisionintl.com/Stock.aspx ... D&EID=4183
I put some into my old engine when Its headgasket failed. Retorqued after reassemble, cant remember how long ago that was but no drama's at all.
As long as your heads are flat and the mating surfaces are in good condition, then I dont see any reason why you should have drama's. Give them a retorque after use. I also recommend with the torquing that your torque them up the first two stages making sure the nut acturally turns before the wrench clicks, then for the last stage, just 1/8th of a turn. Put some oil behind the washers and nuts to stop them from binding and I usually remove the studs, spin them in a drill and clean them right up.
Regards
Doug
http://www.precisionintl.com/Stock.aspx ... D&EID=4183
I put some into my old engine when Its headgasket failed. Retorqued after reassemble, cant remember how long ago that was but no drama's at all.
As long as your heads are flat and the mating surfaces are in good condition, then I dont see any reason why you should have drama's. Give them a retorque after use. I also recommend with the torquing that your torque them up the first two stages making sure the nut acturally turns before the wrench clicks, then for the last stage, just 1/8th of a turn. Put some oil behind the washers and nuts to stop them from binding and I usually remove the studs, spin them in a drill and clean them right up.
Regards
Doug