Bumpty's Ausubaru

Post by **Captain Obvious** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:46 am

bumpty, i am running 216/65/16at on wrx rims and still have 10-15mm clearance between the bottom lip and the tyre, that running ob struts and liffed Forrester king springs.

bryan

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 4:00 pm

Today, went to the wreckers (Camdale), looking for a pair of ob trailing arms. Had a look at their only ob (the one I was going to get the struts out of), and the arms had been taken!

So then for something to do, I went to check out a few gen1 libs they have and maybe get a quote or two for a manual box. But the two M/Ts are gone, and the auto wagon still has its box. So no luck there either.
But found an engine cover with brackets! haha. So just need some rubber rings for the brackets and then I can put a cover on my ej

Captain Obvious - With lifted springs, does this take out all the problems with brake lines etc and only put more angle on the cvs? I'd probably still prefer 3" blocks over 2" blocks and lifted springs still...

Wilbur · Post by **Wilbur** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 4:16 pm

Bumpty wrote: I'd probably still prefer 3" blocks over 2" blocks and lifted springs still...

I was talking about this with subi wan not too long ago and we agreed that if you were after wheel travel on extension and compression, that the 3 inch blocks with std springs would be the go.

Capt'ns set up is good for touring but I believe it tops out alot unloaded......captn ???

Post by **yarney** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 4:27 pm

Bumpty i have 2" lift ob struts larger kings and 27" tyres when you put a lift in you will have to drop the sump guard down mine was about 25mm and extended the rear section but it was from an l-series you can do anything with a welder:)
My brake lines are at the limit and i havent locked them in on the strut bracket

Jan

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:18 pm

I've heard that the L series sump guard is pretty much the same as what'd you'd find on the liberty if you could find one from the factory (Also heard that they were an option)...

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **Captain Obvious** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:19 pm

White_Lightning_Rex wrote:I was talking about this with subi wan not too long ago and we agreed that if you were after wheel travel on extension and compression, that the 3 inch blocks with std springs would be the go.

Capt'ns set up is good for touring but I believe it tops out alot unloaded......captn ???

this is correct whitey!

no much down travel when unloaded!!

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:45 pm

2" seems easier, as a bolt on mod, and you guys also have lifted springs for extra lift. But even though 3" seems a lot more difficult, it is a lot more appealing to me to just have the standard springs rather then having lifted springs and the 2". I'm torn between the two now haha

Its great to get the pros n cons for each combination though, I'm learning a lot!

Here is a pic of the engine cover I picked up today, very pleased with it. All seems to be in great nick, except the brackets need the rubber rings and then it is ready to clip on!

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:46 pm

I got a quote from Subaru for the rubber grommets (rings). They are $4.02 ea If anyone wants them!
But I recommend going to supercheap and finding some of the ones they have, I found 4 which weren't perfect but I'm sure will do the job.
So here is a pic or 2 of the cover on, had a pic with it off but accidently deleted it hehe.
Cover makes engine look a little more trick I think

Also got quoted the prices for the front grill clips, as I've broken mine... $6.09 ea. (top 4) and $2.37 (bottom 3) - So ya gotta love duct tape

Part numbers for grill clips (gen1 S2 lib)
(Top) SU-91017AA010
(Bottom) SU-91059FC090

And rubber grommets for engine cover (gen1 S1 lib)
SU-14096AA001

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:26 pm

Some may know, I've just recently put my lib into a puddle

See here - showthread.php?t=11881

Anyhoo, I've done what CO wrote in that thread ^ and taken out all the carpet, leaving quite a belted floor pan haha.
Plans are, to get the carpet professionally cleaned, as I don't mind paying the dollar for it to be done and dusted so to speak.

Seats are out except drivers seat, as is seems all their bases all need a bit of time in the sun. (including back bench seat)

The only thing of real concern, was my amp which was under the passenger seat and obviously was under water, this is now sitting in front of a heater

And the front left speaker (sony explode) still goes strong even though it got a dip too.. Lovely!

I've taken the left door trims off, and both the windows don't wind (electrically), I'm hoping this is because they just need to be connected back to the door trim to complete the circuit?

Would love anyone to point me in the direction of a good place that could clean my carpets (NW Tas preferably)... Thanks.

Pics Added!

Carpet is out, with a poser in shot - -

In car, pre cleaned - -

In car, Post cleaned. Awaits carpet - -

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:43 pm

PVC CAI installed today.

Isn't the best idea for a ve hecile being 'prepared' for offroad, but meh, thought I'd give it a go!

Basically what was used how it was done -
I used, three 75mm elbows and a straight section of 75mm piping to work with.
Firstly, took off the inner guard, unscrewed the factory restrictor and snorkel and took it all out.
Then filed out the whole to the airbox so the first 75mm elbow could fit in.
Added the straight piece of pipe to the elbow and angled it down to the bumper,

added the second elbow which was also connected with a short section of straight pipe,

which was then connected to the third and last elbow
< The third elbow faces forward behind bottom 'grill' section, is covered with fly screen, so ya know... Flys don't get sucked up it

(Bottom elbows, looking from ground up)

Finished product

(Tilt head to the right, the elbow at the right of the picture is coming out of the air box)

No noticeable power gains were noticed from this!
No noticeable throttle changes were noticed!

Although, the engine seems to run more freely,
thus, it does noticeably coast (with foot off accelerator) a lot better.
And also, a boxyer sound has occurred from doing this. BUT, it isn't very noticable and I wouldn't do this DIY for any sound changes, as you'll be disappointed

Kappage · Post by **Kappage** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:35 pm

WOW i love it how your are showing us everything you do! Maybe i can do some of these things to mine! I am loving that engine cover! Just makes me want one for mine. I only have one question, how hard is it to a do a clutch in one of these? My oldman always bitches to me that im going to kill my clutch because i never use the handbrake for hill starts i just use the built in hill start assist, but when you do that youve got to bring the clutch almost all the way out to the 'friction' point, which he beleives could be damaging. So there lies my question how hard is it to redo the clutch in one of these and how much $$ does it cost?

Sry for the thread hijacking.

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:36 pm

Not sure mate, as I've yet to do one myself. If the clutch still works, leave it in till it pops

, goodluck.

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:43 pm

Today, decided to have a go at changing the cluster lights.
Firstly, I rubbed out the laying behind the dials.
then, used a blue permanent marker on the little dashes on the outside of each number (revs & tacko)
I coloured the main lights, blue too, this is why the numbers are a light blue.

Swapped out the green bits of plastic which make the indicators green, and replaced them with just bits of orange paper. Orange indicators make more sense to me

(A/T dash) I stuck a strip of black plastic down the center, which covers those gear lights P-R-N-D etc... I have never looked at the dash for the gears. (grew up with M/T)

I am quite pleased, at how well it all looks for only the cost of a pen

However, I coloured the needles in, not very visible (I'll bring them back to normal)
Indicators (& indicator lights), a couple of other lights (door) don't work or have bad connection
And I now not have the notorious engine check light on haha

. Will, check codes & reset tomorrow. See what happens.

What do you think

?

dwayneb · Post by **dwayneb** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:40 am

Looks good with that colour scheme, but can't see the needles, you would have to make an educated guess at what speed you are going, by the engine noise:p

Albert · Post by **Albert** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:53 am

We had a Subaru ,,,,the same model and same color and bought it new in 1993. Now we have a MY04 Liberty. ...see pics in my profile.

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Fri May 15, 2009 8:18 am

I've fitted a pair of outback trailing arm 'brackets'. I was hoping they would move the wheels back a little more, but I think it was worth it haha..

Had a bit of a saga fitting them, got the right side on no worries, but when I was doing the left side, I cracked one of the internal nuts in the chassis rail. So a mate and I went in through the top (underneath the seat) and managed to 'access' the nut that way.
Pics will pop up soonish..

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri May 15, 2009 11:12 pm

Bumpty, I haven't followed this thread in ages

Its got too many pictures! Not complaining now though (got broadband

). Good to see the changes occuring as they happen - basically loving the write up!

Bumpty wrote:I've fitted a pair of outback trailing arm 'brackets'. I was hoping they would move the wheels back a little more, but I think it was worth it haha..

I think you'll find that the wheels have been moved back further than you reckon it has - that amount of lift will hide it to a certain degree. Once the wheel is pushed up into the guard you will see the difference (I'm sure) as this will be when the trailing arm is near horizontal... If you can get one side of the rear to compress as much as possible and take a pic to post you should be able to see what I mean (I hope).

And did the air intake mod end up connected to a snorkel? It seems you like going swimming too! I got stuck the other weekend with water just to the door line. I was happy - til I saw it coming up from underneath

I'm living with the wet vinyl underlay for now...

Keep the mods coming (and posting)!

Cheers

Bennie

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Mon May 18, 2009 12:02 pm

Your theory works Benny, here is a couple of pics to prove it.

Wheel pushed forward, under 'flex'

Wheel centered, when being 'cuddled'

And the wheels sits somewhere in between, when the car just sits.

The CAI off the airbox runs down to the front guard - Not a good idea haha. As it manages to suck up mud etc. The air filter needs to be replaced as its coated in dried mud. I knew this might be the case, but thought I'd try it anyway

Its going to be coming off and I might just have a pod up in the guard.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Mon May 18, 2009 12:24 pm

put the factory intake back in. they work really well.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon May 18, 2009 4:00 pm

Bumpty wrote:Your theory works Bennie, here is a couple of pics to prove it.

Wheel pushed forward, under 'flex'

I like it when I've got it right, need to be able to do this more often

And sorry Bumpty, but I hate the term "flex" - I immediately think of the vehicle's shell flexing/twisting as its not the right term, even though the americans think it is. The correct word is "articulation" or in this case you'd use "full extension/full compression" or "extented/compressed"

So I'm guessing you're happy with it now that you know the wheel is centred properly?

And is it possible to move the factory intake point up into the engine bay? I'm thinking along the lines of better accessibility/breathing when offroad...

Cheers

Bennie