Update on my Brumby

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Fri May 20, 2011 10:04 am

How does this one look fellas?:D

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri May 20, 2011 10:10 am

FROG wrote:How does this one look fellas?:D

very sexy how many thousands of sheckles to own one?
no PM

TOONGA

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Fri May 20, 2011 10:46 am

Pm sent

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri May 20, 2011 12:29 pm

Thanks Andy I will definitely have to save the sheckles

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri May 20, 2011 1:18 pm

ULP or Leaded version in the pic?

Brumby wreck somewhere for sure?

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri May 20, 2011 1:39 pm

from what I can see it looks to be an unleaded version, either way it is in better condition than mine

and most of the wagons or brumbys Ive seen over here have the same problem

TOONGA

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:10 pm

Update time again

and a short story... get a cup of coffee and some cake ready

for the last week or so I've had what I thought was a carby problem, under acceleration the engine would stall when the second barrel opened with a big gluuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrg, then when I took my foot off the pedal I would get power again.

So on Friday morning I was set to remove the 32/36 weber for a rebuild and use my 34 ADM while I did this. I put my daughter to bed (monitor in place so if she woke I would hear her)

I got the car into the garage and it wouldn't idle, it stalled so I got out got it going and gave the engine a rev. it was fine until the second barrel opened then glurrrrrrrrrrrg pop fizzle stall ... no restart, nothing but the flooded smell associated with a drowned engine. I pulled the lead for number 1 and placed a spark plug in the lead and placed it where it was earthed and I could see it no spark... uh oh out comes the test meter.

After testing everything I could, I decided to pull the dizzy and test the igniter and internal winding. The igniter was fine, the winding I wasn't too sure about I would get a reading then it would disappear. I noticed also that one of the brass poles in the cap had a wear mark from the rotor button.

Break out the new dizzy and coil whoooo hooooo ... Meme wakes up

boo hoo hoo

Packed my tools away as quickly as I could, then went to free my daughter from the bedroom. (left PJ in the garage overnight)

Saturday morning - the first thing I had to do was wire the new dizzy correctly as for now I don't have a spare module. so I set everything up and put all the wires in their correct places ... SPARK from the coil ... a big fat hurty spark (do the happy dance?)

I found top dead centre lined the dizzy up for number 1, then the fun began the cap has screws not clips so I had to screw the cap back into place and then put the leads on. (what was that firing order again 4512 3178 1342 no wait 1324)

First start vroo..pop pop pop vrooo pop pop pop idle pop idle pop splutter stall.

So I swapped the leads for 2 and 4 at the plugs, thinking I had mixed them up. then I tried to start lots of backfiring no start, I put 2 and 4 back. then went to 1 and 3 and swapped them at the plugs, no start lots of backfiring with 3 foot flames ... mmmmmmmm warm ...mmmmmm loud .

still no joy and I was back to vroo..pop pop pop vrooo pop pop pop idle pop idle pop splutter stall.

Now I had a choice start moving leads on the cap or try starting the engine with 2 leads removed as the leads on the engine are easier to get to I removed 3 and 2 not for any real reason but because I was sure I had number 1 right.

I tried to start pop pop pop ... pop pop pop... SIGH.

I put leads 3 and 2 back on and swapped 1 and 4 at the cap and finally PJ starts. once the unburnt fuel cleared and the engine warmed up I timed to 8 degrees and went for a drive. there was no ping but acceleration was a little sluggish but she was running fine. back to the timing light and I set the timing at about 14 degrees (hard to tell with the marks) and I went for another drive ... no ping great acceleration FANTASTIC.

Test drive time I went and got fuel, as I was nearly empty by this time. Once I had fuel it was time to see how PJ was going. I stuck my foot into first gear and the engine revved quite happily to 4000 rpm (never did this with the old dizzy) the same with second and I hit 90 something KM/H before I changed into 3rd without a hitch. Next I went to my off road test track and loaded the engine up in first in the soft wet sand and drove right out of a set of canyonaro ruts like they weren't there.

Needless to say the car is running really well and my carby was never blocked (even if it was I'm pretty sure anything that was in the carby is now on the garage ceiling)

I will try to get pictures Later today as wifey has gone shopping and I'm babysitting.

now I need a coffee after typing this

nice new coil

Dizzy hiding under wires and power steering lines

Dizzy from another angle

My personal favourite the gap between the steering knuckle and the dizzy

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:03 pm

Was thinking coil as I started to read the latest entry , was same problem with mine recently - the EA82T continues to rip

1111giles · Post by **1111giles** » Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:03 am

Those parts look mighty familiar Jules

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:46 am

Awesome.. now that dizzy looks better in there than the MKIII one

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:41 am

steptoe wrote:Was thinking coil as I started to read the latest entry , was same problem with mine recently - the EA82T continues to rip

the old coil (bog stock brumby coil) was the wrong one for the dizzy, the module on the MKIII was a generic bosch igniter (which is why the winding was on the fritz) I've found one on a triton motor at the wreckers but I don't think I would be that lucky finding one for my new dizzy here in Australia.

1111giles wrote:Those parts look mighty familiar Jules

Yep thanks again Giles I would definitely recommend this dizzy and coil setup to anyone wanting to carby an EJ. (Giles I may even send you a link yet for a module for the new dizzy

)

RSR 555 wrote:Awesome.. now that dizzy looks better in there than the MKIII one

Yep not only does it fit better it runs better and is way more accurate when being timed.

The only issues I've had are the rubber seal on the base of the dizzy and the key for the cam, the brand new seal was smaller than the one on the MK III dizzy. when I came back from a drive and parked the car a small pool of oil formed under the dizzy. this was fixed by putting a thicker seal in place.

As for the key on the base of the dizzy it needs to be pressed off if I want to use the one from the MK III.(was machined to allow for the 2-2.5 mm of height difference) for now the dizzy is sitting on a 2.5mm flat aluminium washer so it sits flat when it is tightened up.

TOONGA

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:54 pm

just a little update on PJ

I got talking to a guy who had a 2 litre hilux with a weber on it. in the course of discussion we got to talking about the primary and secondary main jets and the idle Jets we used. he is using 132 primary and 130 secondary mains with 50 idle and 55 secondary idle while I was using 135 primary and 145 secondary and 55 idle and 55 secondary idle.

Ive since changed my idle jets to 50 for the primary and kept the 55 for the secondary and changed my secondary main to a 130 and kept the primary at 135

will see how the economy fairs now

TOONGA

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:00 am

Well the economy is a bit better around 9lt/100km on the highway and 10lt/100km around town (and in the negatives on the beach

)

I finally changed the key on the end of my dizzy Yesterday and now it bolts up without needing a spacer and suprise suprise it worked first time even though PJ sat for nearly 2 weeks without being started.

at least one of my cars is running really well

TOONGA

ausbrumby · Post by **ausbrumby** » Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:36 pm

You know how you raised the back with the mazda coils, could you use that same method to lower it?
Cheers kieran

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:31 pm

ausbrumby wrote:You know how you raised the back with the mazda coils, could you use that same method to lower it?
Cheers kieran

Yes you could, but you would need a set of after market coil over shocks shorter than the ones I used.

TOONGA

ausbrumby · Post by **ausbrumby** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 3:42 pm

Okay cheers mate, very neat brumby by the way, just got mine for my first car

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:16 pm

ya don't lower Brumbies very easily - slide under and check out the rear bump stop gap, factory is 20mm.

ADR's allow I think a 1/3 rd reduction
Just not practical to dump them

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:23 pm

Or "lower" it with a body kit...

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 2:01 pm

with all of the water/methanol injection talk going on, I decided to try the low pressure injection method.

My 34ADM has a vacuum port that comes out under the primary butterfly, so what better point to start. (after I went shopping that is)

A quick trip to the aquarium shop and for less that 8 dollars my kit

2 air stones 2 air taps and 5m of air hose $7.30
(the left overs actually)

The setup (note the full washer bottle)

Has it made any difference?

on Saturday I rebuilt my carby, due to a cracked body that was causing a major air leak.(the good doctor Urabus confirmed I had a strange air leak)

see if you can spot the crack

Once I had the carby rebuilt and running. I had to drop my timing from 15 degrees to 10. with the water/metho I can run the car at 15 degrees again.

Won't know about economy until I have gone for a drive this weekend.

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Aug 30, 2012 11:02 pm

TOONGA wrote:see if you can spot the crack

Bottom right corner where the bolt hole is?

TOONGA wrote:Once I had the carby rebuilt and running. I had to drop my timing from 15 degrees to 10. with the water/metho I can run the car at 15 degrees again.

Won't know about economy until I have gone for a drive this weekend.

I'll be keen to know what it is. I wonder how a kit like this would go on an EFI system - could be handy in the heat of summer on the sand. But I can't be bothered finding out how it will effect the EFI system (extra oxygen in the exhaust?).

Cheers

Bennie