Update on my Brumby

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 12:02 am

TOONGA wrote:on Saturday I rebuilt my carby, due to a cracked body that was causing a major air leak.(the good doctor Urabus confirmed I had a strange air leak)

Invoice is in the mail and this Dr does not bulk bill

TOONGA wrote:with all of the water/methanol injection talk going on, I decided to try the low pressure injection method.

I've have 3 things that come to mind...

1. Hope you're planning on fitting a stainless steel exhaust system fairly soon.

2. Unless you atomize the water, you're more likely to put out the burn (flashpoint) and cause power loss. I would also recommend you mix (50/50) some sort of alcohol/methanol into the water.

3. Why would you put this on a NA engine? The true (high pressure systems)water injection is designed to stop detonation on forced inducted engines. Unless you are getting shitty fuel or planning on shaving a few thou off your heads, then I don't believe you'll get any gain from this. Just think of it as getting watered down fuel from a crappy servo.

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:24 am

RSR 555 wrote:Invoice is in the mail and this Dr does not bulk bill

The mouldy bread is in the mail.

RSR 555 wrote: I've have 3 things that come to mind...

here we go

RSR 555 wrote: 1. Hope you're planning on fitting a stainless steel exhaust system fairly soon.

Headers are stainless, the rest... well we have discussed that before and I believe it is low grade stainless.

RSR 555 wrote: 2. Unless you atomize the water, you're more likely to put out the burn (flashpoint) and cause power loss. I would also recommend you mix (50/50) some sort of alcohol/methanol into the water.

The vacuum port is below the primary butterfly and the hole is smaller than 40 thou (from extensive reading) a litre of ethanol (metho) and a litre of water is 50/50 ... yes? (where are my up side down question marks)

RSR 555 wrote: 3. Why would you put this on a NA engine? The true (high pressure systems)water injection is designed to stop detonation on forced inducted engines. Unless you are getting shitty fuel or planning on shaving a few thou off your heads, then I don't believe you'll get any gain from this. Just think of it as getting watered down fuel from a crappy servo.

I have been able to keep my timing at 15 degrees, where without the water I have to set the timing at 10 degrees. eventually I will put my supercharger on so it will need a water kit of some sort to stop the pre detonation.

This is all experimentation in conjuction with this thread

TOONGA

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 3:32 pm

So I have had it with my headers making ffftfttfttfftftfffft noises every time I drive PJ. the crack is in the final join just before the flange for the rest of the exhaust. (of course it is good one)

I started a home with my trusty gas bottle and torch

... hmmmmmm this isnt getting hot enough, so it was off to the wreckers to borrow the nice owners oxy torch.

mmmmm lots of heat

ready to be braised

after 10 or so minutes and all the braising rod I had finished note the safety boots not thongs

note the flux on the braising It is still on the headers, as I let them cool down instead of dunking them (that was and wasn't a good Idea)

the heat and slow cooling caused the headers to return to how they were when I bought them, about 15mm short of the EJ22 exhaust ports so with some help from a pry bar and some wedges i got the buggers back on

no more fffft fffft fffft fffft

Just raw brumby madness now

TOONGA

Post by **Bantum** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:27 pm

Hmmm - I had a similar issue with my exhaust, although from a totally different reason ...

See here for more detail ... showpost.php?p=203397&postcount=7

It drove me nuts trying to find what / where strange noise was coming from ...

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:41 pm

So quiet now I can hear the hotdog muffler

not FFFFFT FFFFFT FFFFFT

Idles way better and drives way better

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:08 pm

What are those extractors like over the factory Y pipe? Not that I'm going to get a set, just curious! Do you lose some ground clearance in front of the sump from these?

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:46 pm

Bennie this is how they sit on PJ

they cover the sump at the front, and sit slightly lower at the side they run down to the back of the engine.

The headers don't have any scrape marks on them (thankfully)

as for performance no idea, I put them on as the factory Y pipe never fitted as it hit the crossmember even with the heat sheilds taken off.

TOONGA

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:25 pm

I went to leave work at 12.30 am last night my brumby started fine drove 10 feet and stalled ... so I turned the key and nothing no power no t even a clicking starter ... WTF full power at accessories turn the key nothing ???

I got one of the guys I was working with to give me a jump start ... nothing

I checked every related fuse and the fusable links even the wire from the battery to the fusable links which broke off in my hands a new fitting and I had power again ... problem solved ... turn the key click then darkness no power at all ... WTF... WTF ... WTF.

by this tim it was close to 1am, a security guard had stopped and had let me use his billion watt torch to see under the bonnet, he offered to dropp me at the motel so I could get some sleep the try in the morning so we pushed the car to a proper parking space and I went to the motel and went to sleep.

I walked back to the car after breakfast and started checking everything , I mean everything ignition barrel, fuses relays fusable links again, I even sent Subarino an SMS and told him of my problem while I was waiting for a reply from him I checked the battery cables again.

the positive was great, the negative broke off in my hand arrrrgh... just then I get and SMS from Subarino, a list of thing to check and... probably battery leads ... was the gist of the message (thanks for taking the time to have an SMS diagnostic Dave

)

I repair that ... good to go BAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA
still no dice I try again and sparks come from the end of the negative lead that wasn't repaired. I get a jumper lead (Daves suggestion) and use it to earth the engine she cranks straight away. so I drove home with a jumper lead coiled through the engine bay.

I cleaned the ends of the negative lead once I was at home, greased them put the lead back in place and for good measure put another earth lead to the engine. now I have instant start.

what a fubar that was

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:30 pm

think i am gonna go out and find my spare power and earth leads and double up under every bonnet

Does Dave do SMS invoices yet ?

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:45 am

Im sure Dave will be reimbursed for his help via SMS, and yes an extra earth lead for the body and for the engine makes for more wiring but a greater piece of mind.

TOONGA

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 2:30 pm

Time for a bull bar update

this is the titanic bull-bar, 50kg+ of steel

a side view of how it sits on PJ

the new improved side view, note the extra inch of height (Irvin bull bar from an 83 wagon at the local wreckers)

how PJ looks now mmmmmm... bull bar needs polishing or painting black

the titanic sitting in the pastures waiting for a new owner, any takers?

pros: will act as an earth moving implement, scares the crap out of anything and anyone at a roundabout, 99.999999% chance of surviving any impact, can be used for weight training during installation. keeps front end down at high speed

cons: weight, will cost you an extra litre per 100km to lug this beauty around,
encapsulated nut and subframe failure assured in event of any high velocity impact, shin and knee damage if walked into. top speed reduced by weight of bull bar

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:03 pm

TOONGA wrote: will act as an earth moving implement

Will it require a heavy machinary licence to drive with this on the front of your brumby or MY? :P

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:13 pm

Not in WA, but hey if you want to pay the 4.5 billion sheckles to ship it, you can have it for what it cost me

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:30 pm

Maybe fit up a pair of Goliaths gate hinges and stick it at the head of your driveway

Shed about 35kg there me thinks

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:06 pm

IMO the black one looked better up front and if you're worried about weight.. well maybe it's diet time bro

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:31 pm

RSR 555 wrote:IMO the black one looked better up front and if you're worried about weight.. well maybe it's diet time bro

You go on a diet first and I will go on one after you

I like the way this one gives me back my suspension, it is a pity the black one isn't alloy as it would still be on the brumby.

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:06 am

surely a can of matt /flat black will fix the apearance thing?

60766244 · Post by **60766244** » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:51 am

(New to the forum here)

If I hadn't just gone to all the trouble to respray and fix all the corrosion on a usual alloy brumby bar I'd be tempted on it!

Calling MTB92 and Nigel!

That looks like a sweet bar though!

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:22 am

After a lightening visit to RSRs workshop I now have 99% less oil leaks on my engine. I've known for a while that the crank pulley was dodgy and that the seal behind it was stuffed. Thanks for the help guys:)

So I purchased this kit from ebay, mine was about 10 dollars cheaper than this one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNDERDRIVE-C ... 3f20637d87

apparently it makes 5-10 extra horsepower ... (ok?)

I had the seals from one of the headgasket adventures with frank. so during the hottest part of yesterday (of course) I pulled the front of my brumby apart ( with a few questions for RSR, like where are all your tools

) and proceeded to replace the crank seal.

If you do ever do this to your engine get make sure you get the smaller alternator belt as well (thanks Again for that Paul)

now all I need to do is fix the power steering return line leak and the distributor seal leak and i will have 99.9% of the leaks fixed

I can post a picture of the pulleys in place if needed but there were none taken at the time as I was a stream of sweat.

TOONGA

taza · Post by **taza** » Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:53 am

Cool, can you please post a pic of it on mate...
I have a lightweight crank pulley on my foz. Makes a difference but the.car.still does 0-100 in 21 seconds

The ALL NEW AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Update on my Brumby

Strange noises ...