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maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:32 pm

Hey,Thanks buddy. Im making RHS brackets for the rears too. and thru the tunnel on the insides. for the front, I die grinded the bottom off the mounts a bit. M8 bolts enough do u think??
cheers mate, Rohan Maxim

aussie_guy00000 · Post by **aussie_guy00000** » Sun Mar 28, 2010 5:35 pm

I'd use at least what the factory mounts use, which I think is at least M12. That should also be fine for the outside rear. For the inside rear, if like me you are using the factory WRX seat belt buckle attached to the seat rail, I would at least use an M16, maybe M20 and heavily reinforce the transmission tunnel where it bolts. Obviously in a front on crash, this bolt will have to carry your weight on the sudden deceleration (which in a big crash is huge), so don't cut corners here.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:02 pm

yep, for sure. I'll probly use standard brumby seat belts, and 4point harnesses.

btw, threads are measured on the thread O.D, not the head siz A/F. 12-13mm head is 'usually' an 8mm bolt.

cheers, rohan maxim

aussie_guy00000 · Post by **aussie_guy00000** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:12 pm

I was refering to the thread size and did mean an M12 (i.e 14mm socket), an M8 or M10 would be too small in my opinion.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:03 pm

thats rather MASSIVE imho. each to their own.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:50 pm

So, I made the passenger side first, (for a change) because the drivers is more important , and I dont wanna ruin it.

For the rear mounts, I used M12 bolts and for the fronts, I used M8, which is standard size.

Love it when you go to all the trouble to do a proper job of it, and the welder plays up at the final stage, attempting to undo all your hard work.

Photos soon. Takeit easy, Rohan M

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:04 pm

drivers side mounts are in place, and after an hour carefully placing and replacing the seat, and numerous test sittings and getting the rails and lockers to work simultaneosly, Im happy with the result. Got the front xmember tacked in, will weld it fully tommorow. heres hoping the welder does whats expected from it, and plays nice. pics soon.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 12:15 pm

All Seat Mountings are fully welded in now, And the rails work great, have full adjustment, from front to back, though i doubt I'll be using anything other than full back, as I'm over 6foot tall and i still need bent knees. Both rail locks fall into place at the same time too, which is something I spent a long time getting right. So another part of the equation is done, Im getting closer.

Cheers, Rohan Maxim.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:30 pm

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:33 pm

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:36 pm

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:40 pm

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:42 pm

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:49 pm

^I dont know why this photo looks so rusty, it really isnt.^

Thats all for Now. whatts everyone think???

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:59 pm

Too deadly!

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:02 pm

Now my seats are sorted, Im back to finallising mr rear floor 'xmember'. just doing up fotos now... stay tuned.

Cheers, Rohan M

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:22 pm

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:27 pm

Thoughts???

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:30 pm

Whats your plan with that flatbar? Going to seam-weld it under the floor?
What size is that? Looks like 65x5mm.
I don't understand the benefit.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 2:09 pm

Stu, It is 65x5, and I am seam welding it under the floors there.

I found that that part there is where the rear section is joined to the front MY common front part, if u get my drift, and therefore a weakness in the shell being that it runs straight across the whole floor, with only a few spotwelds to hold it. I want my ute to hold up to jumps, without fear of it breaking in half.

That, and I had to patch the holes where there was dodgey rollbar mounts were, and the rear chassis 'joining straps' were rusty and needed replacement. so I came up with this idea. plus I can put a tailshft catch strap onto this strongly. will add a little bit of weight, but I need to counterbalance the front end work anyways. I was going to just do 'chassis joining Z peice' ala subie boyz, but decided this would be stronger and somewhat easier.

Cheers Mate, Rohan M.

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