Dann's 92 Subaru L Series Build

Show off your car to other members. Tell us a bit about it. What mods you have got now or planned.
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Dann
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Post by Dann » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:07 pm

Hey guys I thought I might just randomly POP back in after Internets been down for so long,
update on the ol' L shes now got new king springs in the front, new stereo head unit, rear LED reverse light as some of you have seen already, she's driving amazing lately loving the EJ22, sort of wishing I had put a turbo in but oh well does great, leaves other people with surprised looks on their faces haha,

Anyway needing help again after putting the engine in the alignment ripped though a set of front tires, so i realigned them got new tires and wheel bearing, ran great for a week then my new king springs arrive so I popped them in and now my camber is waaay out, will post up a few pics tomoz, but I'm wondering if its possible to put the suspension back in wrong to cause this or do I just need to get the wheels done again (camber?).
Cause I compared the springs to each other and they not much bigger ( they standard L series king springs) probs only about a 10mm or so.

And secondly seen as i've finally got around to doing my engine conversion, I wanna get a full set of tires all matching, I wanna get some all terrains, any suggestions? help? I'm running 14's atm, I know that brings the selection right down but if you guys could help out. I'm looking at doing quiet abit of sand driving, but also I've been getting into abit more muddy/ dirt, hence wanting the all terrains or muddies

Thanks guys will post up some updated pics tomoz :)
Bye for now
Cheers,
Dann
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthrea ... t=dann%27s

Looking for:
- LSD diff

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IMG_0957 by Dann_Evans, on Flickr

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90brumby
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Post by 90brumby » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:27 pm

for tyres i went into beaurepairs today just to check prices and kuhmo, toyo and maxxis all do muddies but only maxxis do all terians and they were $215 each fitted

and with the camber i would say if you have fitted std new springs and its changed that much i would have a guess that they are in backwards


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90brumby
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Post by 90brumby » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:29 pm

and to recheck your strut tops can you still read RSR like in the pic at the top of this page
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owned plently of other subis before

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Dann
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Post by Dann » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:40 pm

true ok so, what are the part numbers for them if you know mabey a link to the all terrains and others,
And yeah the RSR is the right way thats whats confuzzling me
Cheers,
Dann
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthrea ... t=dann%27s

Looking for:
- LSD diff

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IMG_0957 by Dann_Evans, on Flickr

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90brumby
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Post by 90brumby » Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:24 am

na didnt get part numbers or a link to anythin just walked in to there shop i just thought that 215 for one tyre seamed a bit too much so was gonna shop around a bit more to get some beta prices and options yea cant really help much with the camber
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:03 am

Dann.. anytime you play with the suspension, you are always best to have an alignment. As it doesn't take much to change it.

As for your springs, it's very hard to spot the difference when they are out of the car. Only a spring compression tester would be able to show you. Springs lose their spring tension but still retain their shape and size.

As for tyres, it's really hard to say what's best as there is so many variables to peoples driving and uses. IMO, I believe that the best tyre for beach is a road tyre (unless you have a supercharged EJ22 then BFGs work great) and the best tyre of for mud/rock work is Mud Terrain tyres. So best to have 2 sets of tyres, if that is not an option then All Terrain tyres is a perfect compromise.
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Dann
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Post by Dann » Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:58 pm

90brumby wrote:na didnt get part numbers or a link to anythin just walked in to there shop i just thought that 215 for one tyre seamed a bit too much so was gonna shop around a bit more to get some beta prices and options yea cant really help much with the camber
Yeah it did seem abit much, as i spoke to my mate today and he recently got 34inch bighorn tires for his car and cost 314 each fitted, what type of tire are you looking at getting cause i'm leaning towards the all terrains, mabey if you getting a set we could get more discount for buying bulk.
RSR 555 wrote:Dann.. anytime you play with the suspension, you are always best to have an alignment. As it doesn't take much to change it.

As for your springs, it's very hard to spot the difference when they are out of the car. Only a spring compression tester would be able to show you. Springs lose their spring tension but still retain their shape and size.

As for tyres, it's really hard to say what's best as there is so many variables to peoples driving and uses. IMO, I believe that the best tyre for beach is a road tyre (unless you have a supercharged EJ22 then BFGs work great) and the best tyre of for mud/rock work is Mud Terrain tyres. So best to have 2 sets of tyres, if that is not an option then All Terrain tyres is a perfect compromise.
paul yeash me playing with the suspension is probly the thing that put it out, but i dont think its just wheel alingment? heres a pic of it
Image
IMG_3862 by Dann_Evans, on Flickr

Image
IMG_3863 by Dann_Evans, on Flickr

Image
IMG_3864 by Dann_Evans, on Flickr
Cheers,
Dann
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthrea ... t=dann%27s

Looking for:
- LSD diff

Image
IMG_0957 by Dann_Evans, on Flickr

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jan 05, 2012 12:34 am

Dann wrote:Image[/url]
This photo makes it look like factory L series camber, which could mean that the strut lift block doesn't have the camber adjustment built into them. But if Paul built it I doubt it doesn't have this adjustment built in...

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by RSR 555 » Thu Jan 05, 2012 3:16 am

Dann wrote:paul yeash me playing with the suspension is probly the thing that put it out, but i dont think its just wheel alingment?
It does appear that something else is off.. maybe drive down next weekend (14/15th) and I'll have a quick look.
El_Freddo wrote:This photo makes it look like factory L series camber, which could mean that the strut lift block doesn't have the camber adjustment built into them. But if Paul built it I doubt it doesn't have this adjustment built in...

Cheers

Bennie
Not sure how to take this as it sounds double dutch to me but doubt you'd be questioning my work.

All of my lift kits have the correct camber offset built into them but they don't have any extra abilty to adjust that whilst in the car. I do use an aftermarket camber adjustment kit when there are major differences. This allows for finer adjustments when doing laser alignments but I've only had this issue on later models (Impreza and Forester).
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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Post by guyph_01 » Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:20 am

Dann wrote:
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IMG_3864 by Dann_Evans, on Flickr
Badly in need of a rear wheel carrier.....! I just got a Mig welder for free. Not sure yet if it works. If it does we can start and only need to rent out a bottle:)
The project, EJ22 --->>> EJ25 Quad CAM:D touring wagon
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Post by TOONGA » Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:55 am

are you sure you put the strut blocks back in the right way?

And when you put it all back together, did the struts get pushed in as far as they could go before the bolts were tightened up?

TOONGA
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Post by NachaLuva » Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:58 pm

RSR 555 wrote:All of my lift kits have the correct camber offset built into them but they don't have any extra abilty to adjust that whilst in the car. I do use an aftermarket camber adjustment kit when there are major differences. This allows for finer adjustments when doing laser alignments but I've only had this issue on later models (Impreza and Forester).
What camber adjustment kit do you use?
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:44 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Not sure how to take this as it sounds double dutch to me but doubt you'd be questioning my work.
No Paul, not questioning your work. I'm sorry that it reads ambiguously - but it was meant to say that if the blocks were built by you that it would have the adjustment built in already, which means there's something else at play here.
guyph_01 wrote:Badly in need of a rear wheel carrier.....! I just got a Mig welder for free. Not sure yet if it works. If it does we can start and only need to rent out a bottle:)
I reckon you'll fall over when you find out how much a bottle is to rent, especially if you're still working on a uni shoe string budget!

The only other thing I can suggest is that you move the car down the driveway then back again and see if there's any change. If not, I'd loosen the hub retaining bolts on the top of the hub that holds the strut, hopefully it will move, do them back up then move it back up and down the drive way to help it settle and see what the difference is.

If that doesn't do the trick I'd start looking at the struts - are they on the correct side? I believe that the 2wd and 4wd's had their struts on opposite sides for some reason - or I could be confusing the MY's with the L's. Paul will know for sure.

Cheers

Bennie
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Post by TOONGA » Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:52 pm

TOONGA wrote: And when you put it all back together, did the struts get pushed in as far as they could go before the bolts were tightened up?
TOONGA
reading this ambiguity of mine, I thought I would show you what I did to PJ to give me near negative camber.

Image

I don't endorse this as a fix, and I'm sure others will say NO NO NO but it does push the strut top in towards the engine to give less positive camber.
wrong word used negative replace with positive please
remember if you do this to have the weight of the car supported, all you want to do is move the strut inward not lift the car by the hub, remember it is the hub not the disc.

TOONGA
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Post by NachaLuva » Thu Jan 05, 2012 3:21 pm

TOONGA wrote:reading this ambiguity of mine, I thought I would show you what I did to PJ to give me near negative camber.

Image

I don't endorse this as a fix, and I'm sure others will say NO NO NO but it does push the strut top in towards the engine to give less negative camber.

remember if you do this to have the weight of the car supported, all you want to do is move the strut inward not lift the car by the hub, remember it is the hub not the disc.

TOONGA
I think you mean less positive camber.

How does the strut top move? Are the holes slotted or just a loose fit?
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