60766244's AWD Brumby w/ EA22 conversion

Show off your Subaru to other members. Tell us a bit about it. What mods you have done or have planned for the near future.
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60766244
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A few posts of fun... 1/3

Post by 60766244 » Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:45 pm

Silverbullet wrote:How the heck do you break a window winder?? :confused: And breaking the ignition before you realized it's the wrong key? Unbelievable :(

Sorry you had to suffer someone else's oafishness, but at least you'll get electric windows out of it :o

Especially when told to use the correct key in the first place... The winder was old plastic, so I suppose it was brittle, and clumsy is as clumsy does I suppose...


Today's been fairly productive however, less repairs and more fun.

I got started on the repairs of the "New" 14" Rims.

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They were coated in Rat piss and rust so first up I pressure cleaned them.

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After that the worst of the paint and rust was removed easily with the old wire-brush wheel on the drill.

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Then the painting began. It's certainly not the best paint job but it should protect the rims a bit better than the paint that was there, rekindle the old thoughts of the rims that I got with it, and do alright until I wear out these tyres and get the rims sand blasted and professionally painted. (Maybe by then I might have a proper painting room and a compressor powered sprayer? :rolleyes:)

I used up the last of my black paints. The very good Dulux paint (about $10 per can) is amazing to work with, gives a wonderful coat, dries quickly and is very easy to work with. Low odor too.

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Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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60766244
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2/3

Post by 60766244 » Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:47 pm

The other paint I used to give it a few more coats was some (I hope) $1 per can rubbish I was given and have had sitting around in the chemical cabinet for far too long. I cannot pour more hate and distaste on this brand of paint than I already have today while using it.

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It's extremely high odor, hard as hell to work with and sprays inconsistently, pulses, and generally gives me the shits. Also it has no ability to be sprayed in any direction other than when the can is vertical. Never buy this. Hell, if someone's giving it to you, don't take it. The only good thing I can say about it is that the cans are empty and in the bin.

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So, now they're sitting drying in the garage and hopefully will be fitted tomorrow. :mrgreen:

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I also made up a bracket for my TomTom GPS. I've not been keen on it being stuck on the windscreen so I took liberty with my dashboard...

First up, I found some galvanized guttering and chopped a small sheet off it. I then shaped it and drilled it (and the TomTom since the suction cup wouldn't stick) with the Dremel and mounted it where (I presume) the AC button typically sits in Brumbys that have such a luxury...

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Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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60766244
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3/3

Post by 60766244 » Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:48 pm

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I also then realised I mounted the TomTom bracket the wrong way around.
So I re-drilled the holes and rebolted it. :rolleyes:

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Ended up fairly neat looking and freed up my windscreen some. In the photo it looks like it blocks the access to the controls a little but it doesn't really and all switches are highly accessible. :)

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Tomorrow I'll hopefully mount those new wheels and try get a hold of that man who can do the tray-spraying... Maybe look at moving the number-plate across or something...

Is it a legal requirement to have the rear number plate lighted up at night? Because it'll be a more complex move if I need to remove and refit the number plate lights...

Happy days :)
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:43 pm

unbolt your tow ball and put it in upside down, or just leave it off until you need it like I do on my car.

TOONGA
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60766244
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Sounds so simple...

Post by 60766244 » Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:16 pm

TOONGA wrote:unbolt your tow ball and put it in upside down, or just leave it off until you need it like I do on my car.

TOONGA
I bent a Sidcrome 3/4" drive breaker bar (with my trusty long pipe) trying to crack those nuts...

I may try again tomorrow if I can find a 1" drive...

I soaked them repeatedly in a freeing agent today so maybe tomorrow they may agree.

It'd be nice to have a Rattle gun. ;)

I like to leave a towbar on as insurance against small-speed prangs, I park in fremantle a lot so I see it as my rear end shield! :rolleyes:
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

|| Ausubaru Wiki: New AUSubaru Wiki, About the Wiki || My Ex, Maple the Brumby, Rack, Lift Kit, Raptor-Liner Tray || Shed: Benches ||


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60766244
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14" Rims fitted

Post by 60766244 » Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:20 pm

Fitted the 14"s today!

With a little work on the hub caps I managed to get two of them to fit on the front.

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The bottom set of hub caps in the images above are ideal for this since they have the longest claws. The top two pictured have smaller claws, and needed more encouragement to stretch out. But, it was fun experimenting.

The front:
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Sadly, on the back they're too small to reach the depth needed so the hub's a little naked. (You can also see the 4x114.3 redrilling done on them. Bad bad.)

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I'll see if I can make a mount somehow get around the problem, or if there's generic hub caps I can find?
Until then the front will be pretty and the rear less so...

All good until I backed down the driveway - a bit of a slope, and I heard some grinding and rubbing. Suspension and height is completely stock.

I massaged the front panel a little bit with my favorite ballpein hammer and it all went well from there. No more squeaking or rubbing.

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Final result.
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Speedo seems to be accurate again! And ride comfort and gearing is back to how it should be. Cornering is a little less exciting but the economy and comfort should make up for it. Before, in 4th and going 60kmph it would sit at 2300 on the tachometer but now it sits just under 2000 on the tachometer at the same speed. This should mean highway cruising should become cheaper, I hope.
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

|| Ausubaru Wiki: New AUSubaru Wiki, About the Wiki || My Ex, Maple the Brumby, Rack, Lift Kit, Raptor-Liner Tray || Shed: Benches ||


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60766244
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Post by 60766244 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:59 pm

Haven't updated the thread in a while.

I was hoping to do so with good news of tray rhino-lining and spare wheel holder mounting.

No such luck... :|

I'm here to ask a question, and tell a small tale. I posted this on Bookface earlier yesterday.

(This happened once before while going up a hill.)

I was traveling on Roe Highway heading along at a steady 100kmph (5th gear) - and had been doing so for 10-15 minutes when the engine started making much more noise than usual and the power dropped out the ass end.

I tried moving the accelerator and nothing happened. It felt sluggish and when I changed down the power dropped further and the vehicle slowed. The engine light then came on.

I put on the hazards, changed lanes and parked on the side, quickly shutting off the engine.

Lifting the bonnet I listened and touched for sounds/feels of overheating (the gauge indicated nothing of the sort) and that was clear. Checked all fluids I could safely check and did a visual inspection of the vehicle inside, out and around. All seemed A-Okay... :confused:

Puzzled I sat in the car for 2 mins after closing the bonnet and then tentatively started it up.

All seemed normal, though slightly noiser than usual, and the engine light was off.

So I drove it home slowly and tried calling the mechanic.

He's in Bali. :(

I've driven it some today and it seems to be working okay (acceleration/deceleration fine) though I am taking it very easy on it.


I was hoping anyone here might have suggestions...?
:)

Hopefully I can get some word from the mechanic tomorrow...

A good friend of mine suggested bearings and wheel balances (no doubt will get checked tomorrow as will the whole machine) but I feel it's something with the engine and they've nothing to do with it.

There's no oil in the radiator either...
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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Post by TOONGA » Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:31 pm

Can you check the code that the engine light gave, do you have the test plugs?

2 sets... 2 green, 2 black on the harness.

and the how to process

showthread.php?t=14372

TOONGA
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60766244
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Post by 60766244 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:55 pm

TOONGA wrote:Can you check the code that the engine light gave, do you have the test plugs?

2 sets... 2 green, 2 black on the harness.

and the how to process

showthread.php?t=14372

TOONGA
... I have no test plugs. Could they be purchased from SCA or AutoOne?

I'll read through the thread though, see what I can do tomorrow...
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

|| Ausubaru Wiki: New AUSubaru Wiki, About the Wiki || My Ex, Maple the Brumby, Rack, Lift Kit, Raptor-Liner Tray || Shed: Benches ||


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Post by TOONGA » Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:14 pm

They should be on the harness for your engine near the ECU if you look at the picture on the link below you will see what they look like.


http://www.daytonagblimited.co.uk/conte ... ault-codes

the yellow one is so you can connect a scanner and do this

showthread.php?p=212778#post212778

from here

http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/

TOONGA
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PJ Gone but not forgotten
JETCAR AKA the sandwedge Rusted in pieces

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60766244
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Post by 60766244 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:36 pm

Yeah, after doing yogas to get under the dash I found most of the wires jammed up there in bundles with zip ties.

After work tomorrow I will cut some of those zip ties to see what's what. Then work off that.

Cheers for all the help!
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:26 am

60766244 wrote:I have no test plugs
You should have them somewhere near the ECU but if for some unknown reason the person that did the wiring removed them (for which they should be shot), then and only if you're lucky, the ECU should have an LED light inside the ECU and some models where able to seen through a hole in the side of the unit.

Last option is to see if you have the select monitor plug and have it check out through that.

If your engine just stopped running, then it will bring on the red lights on your dash, this can be from a number of things, firstly, how much fuel was in the tank? and were you going around a corner? Do you have a 'Check Engine' light on your dash? did that come on first? Have you had trouble starting the engine? and you say this has happened before, so I'm leaning towards a fuel issue
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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Post by steptoe » Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:21 am

and you did check the oil level in engine didn't you?

Once (here's my tale) on an engine that cost me about 15 weeks wages to buy and rebuild, blew an oil pressure switch just blowing brand new Valvoline XLD out its little diaphragm breather hole. New engine, new oil, it was not easy to detect, lost most of my oil down to about 500ml? then the oil light came on. Before that, the lifters got noisy and I near lost all power.....thought lifters were blown extractor gaskets :oops:

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Post by 60766244 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 5:57 pm

RSR 555 wrote:You should have them somewhere near the ECU but if for some unknown reason the person that did the wiring removed them (for which they should be shot), then and only if you're lucky, the ECU should have an LED light inside the ECU and some models where able to seen through a hole in the side of the unit.

Last option is to see if you have the select monitor plug and have it check out through that.
Cheers, I will have to put off the Computer check until tomorrow (again) too much on today.

I have a trusted mechanic looking at it on Monday.
RSR 555 wrote: If your engine just stopped running, then it will bring on the red lights on your dash, this can be from a number of things, firstly, how much fuel was in the tank? and were you going around a corner? Do you have a 'Check Engine' light on your dash? did that come on first? Have you had trouble starting the engine? and you say this has happened before, so I'm leaning towards a fuel issue
It didn't stop running. There was 75% fuel in the tank easily, I was going on a level, flat part of Roe Highway - no corner.
My check engine light comes on in the form of the Height-Adjust suspension light since it's a conversion.
I have no issues with starting.

I've been thinking about the issue day and night since it happened and I am thinking it's a fuel delivery issue. When I told the mechanic over the phone he told me to change the fuel filter, so I did (the issue has since happened again, so it wasn't that, though it's nice to have a new filter).
In both situations it has happened it's been when under conditions where a (relatively) high amount of fuel for a long duration of time. I am now leaning towards a fuel delivery issue.
I'm thinking either the pump, as it does seem slightly noiser now than it has been in the past, or some problem with venting the fuel tank and the pump then struggling (after a period of driving time) to pull fuel if the tank is pressurizing as the fuel is removed. This could explain why directly after being turned off, all was well when started up because it allowed the tank to equalize?
I may be talking garbage here, but it seems to fit? :rolleyes:
steptoe wrote:and you did check the oil level in engine didn't you?

Once (here's my tale) on an engine that cost me about 15 weeks wages to buy and rebuild, blew an oil pressure switch just blowing brand new Valvoline XLD out its little diaphragm breather hole. New engine, new oil, it was not easy to detect, lost most of my oil down to about 500ml? then the oil light came on. Before that, the lifters got noisy and I near lost all power.....thought lifters were blown extractor gaskets :oops:
Yes, first fluid I checked after listening for the radiator.

Sounds like a gnarly wound. Unlucky my friend. The brumbys oil is the same colour it usually is and bang on the (hot) full mark. I checked again today before I drove to work. All good.


Cheers for the response both of you. :)
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:36 pm

Sounds a bit like an issue I've had in my EJ22 L Series - after half an hour or so of light, constant throttle cruising it would either lose power or die completely. Never really got to the bottom of it, but it seemed to be starving, possibly because the original fuel return and breather lines are too small. I have also heard of people drilling a small hole in the fuel filler cap as an extra breather (but that might have been for a different problem)

Dane.
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1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project

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60766244
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Post by 60766244 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:06 pm

GOD wrote:Sounds a bit like an issue I've had in my EJ22 L Series - after half an hour or so of light, constant throttle cruising it would either lose power or die completely. Never really got to the bottom of it, but it seemed to be starving, possibly because the original fuel return and breather lines are too small. I have also heard of people drilling a small hole in the fuel filler cap as an extra breather (but that might have been for a different problem)

Dane.
Thankyou for your insight!

I remember seeing your gallant vehicle parked about in Tom Price when I worked there for TPCM last year. Looked epic!

I'll look into this too. It seems we've had similar issues.
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Wed Feb 27, 2013 2:32 am

Ok, Sorry, I thought when you said it happened before 'whilst going up a hill' then it might have been the same thing.

I think it is fuel related but I'll let your mechanic diagnose it.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

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60766244
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Post by 60766244 » Wed Feb 27, 2013 8:08 am

RSR 555 wrote:Ok, Sorry, I thought when you said it happened before 'whilst going up a hill' then it might have been the same thing.

I think it is fuel related but I'll let your mechanic diagnose it.
The less serious time yes actually!

For some reason yesterday my brain was stuck on the most recent experience. :\

Sorry. :(

But the fact it happened again out in the flat top is part of the confusion. Can't wait for some word on it. Might get the error codes done today if I get time to scratch myself. :)

Cheers!
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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Post by GOD » Wed Feb 27, 2013 2:45 pm

60766244 wrote:Thankyou for your insight!

I remember seeing your gallant vehicle parked about in Tom Price when I worked there for TPCM last year. Looked epic!

I'll look into this too. It seems we've had similar issues.
Small world eh?

Should have added last night - because I haven't (yet?) got to to the root of my car's problem, I just got used to turning the ignition off for a few seconds then starting up and it was good again. Can even do it while coasting if it's a good road.

Dane.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project

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60766244
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Post by 60766244 » Wed Feb 27, 2013 6:07 pm

GOD wrote:Small world eh?

Should have added last night - because I haven't (yet?) got to to the root of my car's problem, I just got used to turning the ignition off for a few seconds then starting up and it was good again. Can even do it while coasting if it's a good road.

Dane.
Small world indeed. Amazing.

I can see this as a way to deal with it but I would like to get to the root of the issue. I played a little with the pluming today so let's see what happens. It seems to happen more often when the tank is more full than when it is more empty.
Otter the 2004 Outback with all the fruit.
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Possible Improvements: Rigid 12db Phone Aerial Fitted, Air-compressor w/ Hose & Air-Tank, Jerry Holders, Lift, Nudgebar and Spots?

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