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While I'm waiting for my own section in the buildups and restorations section of the forum I couldn't wait any longer to post some pics and info about my restoration on the old wagon. So far all the work has been stripping down and bodywork/rust repair. Haven't welded anything yet but I'm slowly making progress with patch panels and rust removal.

There are many small sections of rust around the car and so far almost every spot I've attacked has been worse than it looked on the outside Probably no surprise to some and I know rust is always bad but I still got a little disappointed. Nothing terminal yet though and I'm just glad the spots are small. The worst so far is the rear left quarter panel where water has leaked into the panel dripping down into the seam from the inside, rusting the wheel arch out. The right hand side appears to be tip-top but I'll have a closer look anyway to be sure.

I've got big plans for this car, and I don't want to be doing this twice. I'm not bothered by the potential amount of money that's going to be poured into it and I definitely do not expect to get any kind of financial return on this work. To me if this car survives and gives me joy for another 10-15 years after this resto I'll have gotten my moneys worth, I'll never sell it. Who knows, petrol might not even exist in 10-15 years but that's another story

Better let some pics do the talking.

Beginning the strip down


First bit of rust cut out; rear passenger door corner. Rusted through the skin from inside.


Patch panel made from steel off of my trashed old drivers door.

Beginning of the rear quarter wheel arch. This was when I just started chasing the rust down the seam. After this I found another pin hole, cut it out and found another long run of rust down the seam. The hole cut out is alot larger now (more on this later)


In front of the same wheel arch, was a nasty rust hole. When I began grinding and cutting it just kept going through every layer of steel


This is where it ended, and I will treat the insides with rust killing/converting product before I seal it up again.


Part of my process for patch panels; make a perfectly fitting cardboard template, take your time and make sure it fits. Mark all cut lines and fold lines.


Trace the template onto panel steel and carefully hammer into shape; folding, cutting and fitting as you go to make sure it fits perfectly.


Do the same with the outer skin

Todays work: Another bad spot this time at the bottom of the passenger A pillar. I was expecting this rust to go right through every layer it looked so bad from the outside. I was completely surprised to find that the rust had only eaten through the outer skin, and all rust on the next layer was surface rust only. I poked my inspection camera down inside the pillar through the hole at the top (see rubber bung top left) to see if there was rust inside. Amazingly it was completely fine. The "dealer fitted" rust protection my parents had done back in 1981 for $200 has saved the insides until now as I can see the black product they sprayed inside has caused runs which are visible.


Most surface rust removed with a flap wheel and angle grinder. No patch for this yet and this area will also get the rust converter/killer treatment before I weld it up.

And that's where I'm at currently
Of course the engine bay is completely bare and I've stripped that of the wiring, started cleaning some grease before I remove the gearbox. All lights, bumper bars, chrome trim, side strips and mud flaps are sitting in the boot along with that L series windscreen I can't seem to get rid of

More pics as progress is made, there is plenty of rust to remove including the dreaded windscreen corner; That will be the last part I tackle, after I've practiced on everything else

Stay tuned!

What are you using for the cutting work on the panels? A Dremel or similar, or just being really careful with a grinder?

If you are using a Dremel, where do you find the packs of cutting disks the cheapest?

The work looks great!

Good work.

Just a little advice - cut and shape the replacment part in steel first, then put it in place and draw around the outside of it and then cut the panel - will give you a much better fit and make welding it in much eaiser.

Think I have found some inspiration in you Sam, shees you are not just doing one at a time are you !

60766244 I'm using a combination of tin snips, dremel cut off wheels, dremel grinding stones, angle grinder etc. I'm going to go and buy a set of Aviation snips that do curves with a smooth cut, our tin snips are fast becoming useless. As for dremel cut off wheels; we had a big set of wheels, stones, sanding drums and sanding wheels from somewhere. Had about 30-40 cut off wheels in it and I've just run out! We probably got the set from ebay.

niterida do you mean make a replacement before I cut the rusty part out? So far that hasn't really been possible since the panel was either too damaged or the rust went further than I expected...resulting it cutting out a bigger section than anticipated. That method may be possible later on though, I'll keep it in mind cheers.

Jonno I'm making all these little bits so I can do all welding at once...now I've got a little pile of panel bits on the bench waiting to be welded in

I knew you were going to ask that - strip the panel back until you can see where the rust stops and cut the rust out if you have to, then make up a panel that is larger than the hole/rusty area, mark the are and then do the final cut.

That makes alot of sense, why didn't I think of it Thanks, I've got just the rust spot to try it out.

I've got a tail gate to practice on if the motivation comes to any fruition......

Had to read Niteridas reply twice but now I get it - make a larger piece to get shape and use this new creation for the cutting template !

Also saw a display by betta rubber/betta covers? for little clamps designed to hold two pieces of sheet about a mm apart yet flush with each other for welding panels. Set of four was about $50. Not for losing inside the bowels of your Subie, more welding on the bench

Looking good Cam! That rust is disappointing but it's not as bad as you think it is overall.

For the windscreen corner check out the thread on Sunnie the Brumby - there's some details in there of how our guy did it, makes it look really messy. We also got a corner piece from Last Celtic Warrior I think his name was.

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:Looking good Cam!

Ehm...I know we live in the same state and like old Subies but we aren't the same person

Yeah the rust isn't that bad really compared to some I've seen, and I had foresight while that member of the subie boys was still on the forum and bought both corner pieces just in case. Really glad I did or this resto would be doomed.

Jonno those clamps sound handy but would be more useful when welding in large areas of sheet metal I think. I'll still get some magnets and things perhaps to hold things in place. And one corner of my rear windscreen is in very poor condition indeed, when I take the glass out I'm dreading what's underneath. It might be too much for me to fix leaving me to find another tailgate

Silverbullet wrote:Ehm...I know we live in the same state and like old Subies but we aren't the same person

I apologise Sam! Com'on, you've got to admit I was close! Been a very lazy day

Cheers

Bennie

Some more progress shots...still rust busting. Got the patch done for the bottom of passenger A pillar. Then moved on to the exact same area on that door to find that little rust hole that was there before is 10x worse than it looked (I hate capillary action!!!:evil:) Ended up taking alot of metal out (see pics) Might have to find a scrapped door and cut that section out to graft in.


Patch done in 2 pieces; I found it impossible to shape 1 piece to fit properly. It looks a bit odd at the moment but all the edges fit in and once I start welding it I can bash the join line into a better shape before welding it all round.


Side shot showing the curvy profile in each piece


A little after starting on the door; that square hole is where the original rust hole was. I drew an arrow to remind myself there was another hole where water had dripped down inside....


What it looks like now The rust was coming off in big flakes and chunks as I kept cutting the inner skin back...you can see the outline where the water stopped seeping between the two layers. I wish I'd known, I may have been able to remove that whole section in one piece, treat the rust and re-use the old piece...oh well.


A pic of the rear wheel arch as it is now...this is proving a real headache to re-shape so I've abandoned it for now while I think it over

Leave the guards cut to run bigger tyres?

I reckon I'd be looking to get the rear wheel arch out of a donor car if you can find one. Just a suggestion. Your other repairs are coming along well though.
These pics are making me realise how lucky I was to stumble on my rust free ute.

Cheers Jake

Yeah I'm planning a trip to a wreckers yard soon and thinking of donor car body parts...wheel arch may be on the list. Rust free cars are nice to find, but this one isn't even that rusty!

Leaving the arches cut for bigger tyres is an interesting idea, but I have no clue what needs to be cut where and don't know what tyres I'll have yet

Nice work Sam.. looking good so far

What sort/size of welder you going to use? I'm asking as I want to buy my son a small one just to do this type of work.

These photos are a good depiction as to why rust is often coined 'cancer' - bloody spreads further than as first thought

Paul I got a Cigweld Transmig 175i, but I'd suggest that's a bit over kill if you just want to do panel work Any decent small MIG welder will do the job as panel steel only needs about 20-40 amps. I'll be using .8mm solid wire with Argoshield gas.

And yep this stuff spreads more than I thought, can't wait to see what the windscreen corner is like