Nachaluva's Foz

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:02 pm

With river crossings on my mind, I sealed up the rear vents plus some annoying little drain plugs:

Still more to be done in the cabin...

Rear swaybar end link "quick disconnects" I did a while ago (before the body lift kit). Only simple tools needed, 3/8"x2" clevis pins with 4mm R clips & 3/8" washers:

Articulation:

I have bungee cord holding the end links up against the mount so they dont dangle down & get caught.

Only takes a few mins to disconnect the RSB, cable tie it up out of the way, then hit the tracks with the rear suspension freed up

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:14 am

Looks great. Are the pins made for this or are they an 'off the shelf' product?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:10 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Looks great. Are the pins made for this or are they an 'off the shelf' product?

They are standard 3/8" clevis pins (2" long) with 4mm R clips. There's some wear but not much considering I've had em in for over a year. I havent really looked yet but would like them in stainless steel. The place I got them from had them in SS but only in packs of 100!

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:27 pm

NachaLuva wrote:They are standard 3/8" clevis pins (2" long) with 4mm R clips. There's some wear but not much considering I've had em in for over a year. I havent really looked yet but would like them in stainless steel. The place I got them from had them in SS but only in packs of 100!

Sounds like it's time for a group buy? I'd take 10 sets depending on costs

ozdog · Post by **ozdog** » Thu Dec 12, 2013 8:49 pm

nachaluva. looks like there is heaps of play in those pins are they noisy (clink/clunk) when turning?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 6:01 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Sounds like it's time for a group buy? I'd take 10 sets depending on costs

I'll look into the cost...

ozdog wrote:nachaluva. looks like there is heaps of play in those pins are they noisy (clink/clunk) when turning?

No, There is some play but no noise or clunking

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:24 pm

NachaLuva wrote:I'll look into the cost...

Cool... I have a few cars already lined up

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:58 pm

Installed my Xmas pressie:

Painted the brake rotor hats silver:

Put the muddies on:

Got stuck in the Goulburn R lol

I found the muddies a little noisy, not bad, but onroad they handle woefully! GREAT offroad though. I managed to keep up with an FJ40 with 33" muddies, 5" lift & modded engine

ozdog · Post by **ozdog** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:30 pm

Wow, the rig looks great! I found with noise in my FJ75 I packed the walls with ( rock wool insulating). Does all the height mods, wheels affect your fuel consumption?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 4:11 pm

ozdog wrote:Wow, the rig looks great!

Thanks mate

I found with noise in my FJ75 I packed the walls with ( rock wool insulating). Does all the height mods, wheels affect your fuel consumption?

The noise doesnt worry me too much, its not bad & I dont have the muddies on often.

The lift has increased fuel consumption a bit, the lightweight alloys reduced it but the muddies (heavy LT construction) had a bad effect on fuel use.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Tue Jan 14, 2014 9:13 pm

Gave her some lovin'

A can of SUEC, new airfilter, triple oil change/flush & new oil filter. Also fixed up the rear bash plate mounts after it had been bashed lol

Oil flush for black oil:
1) drain the oil & filter then refill with cheapo oil + oil flush, reuse old filter
2) idle as per instructions...do not rev the engine
3) drain oil & filter then refill with cheapo oil, reuse old filter
4) idle again (or run gently for fews kms)
5) drain oil then refill with good oil & replace filter with new one
6) have a coldie

Bit of a hesitation though, may need to reset the ECU...

ktmtragic · Post by **ktmtragic** » Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:34 pm

Triple oil change Why??

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:23 pm

RSR555 put me onto this.

The idea is to drain the dirty oil & put in the oil flush with clean oil (cheap) so it works the best. Then you need to drain that out but you can never drain ALL of it so put in more clean oil (cheap) to flush out the oil flush. Then you put in the good oil & new filter.

A lot of work but good results.

I had a Drift magnetic oil filter, D1-MF495 in there but couldnt get another one at SCA, Autobarn or Repco, so just went with a Ryco. Googling it was interesting, lots of people have had problems with them. The rubber seal leaking (minor but annoying) but much more worryingly, an engine knock on startup. Mine did both! Apparently the engine knock is something to do with it building up oil pressure. It will be interesting to see if I get the knock again.

Other than that they seem to do a good job at filtering. From what I read, most filters do a good job of filtering down to 20 microns but metal particles from 5-20 microns also damage the engine. Filters cant be designed to filter these out as the ultra fine filter surface would reduce oil pressure damaging the engine. The magnet in the filter attracts these, so you get the best of both worlds

Another thing I like about the Drift, apart from the metallic blue finish lol, is it has a very handy nut on the bottom to untighten with

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:39 pm

Finally, got around to installing my CF bonnet struts

Subaru Forester CF Bonnet Struts | eBay

The stupid instructions said to drill the hole 1/2" towards the windscreen from the struts fully extended position but this stopped the bonnet from closing! It should have been 1/2" towards the front of the car...grrrr

I can still use the factory bonnet stay if I jamb it in one of the openings as an extra insurance but the bonnets stays up nicely without it. & I love the carbon fibre...great engine bay bling haha

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:51 pm

Replaced the front inner CV boots. The LHS had begun leaking 2yrs ago...I'd wrapped some tape around it (in the direction of rotation) to seal the small end, worked great until the boot started to split just recently.

ktmtragic · Post by **ktmtragic** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 7:17 pm

You should ignore Imperial instructions

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:48 am

Well done mate!
I remember the first time (circa 8 years ago) I ever changed a boot on my MY wagon, it took about 2 hours.
Add air tools and some more experience and its down to a little over half an hour now!

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:31 am

1/2 hr! Crikey! Took me about 2-3 hrs this time I think. How do you keep the boot clean of grease as you put it back together?

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:27 pm

How do you keep the boot clean of grease as you put it back together?

The secret is, don't put greasy tools or the CV's in the boot!
Or put lots of news paper down on the carpet first, lol

Jokes aside, not completely sure what you meant? There is no problem getting grease on them or in them.
Just clean any on the outside when installed.
The critical points are to not overfill the joint with grease (usually the packet they give you
will suffice) and also not to over inflate the boot with air when tightening the s/s bands.
For example, you wouldn't want the joint slid fully to the outer end of the shaft, and then
tighten up the boot, as when it slides back along the shaft it would blow it up like a balloon
putting lots of stress on it and causing it to fail prematurely.
Conversely, you don't want to slide the joint all the way on, then tighten boot bands
as this will create too much vacuum at full stretch.
John

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 2:17 pm

OK thanks mate, didnt think of the vaccuum thing. So next time I'll do up the bands with the joint mid way

What I meant was how to keep grease off the part of the boot & cup where you tighten the band, i keep hearing how important it is to keep this clean so it seals properly. I wrapped tape around the cup & the edge of the boot as I reassembled the CV, but I found this awkward. Perhaps its just a matter of getting better at it...